Brooks125

Many of us have lost hours of sleep putting holsters and other item together in our heads before we do it in the shop. Keep in mind that a lot of those features need to go in order. The "stud" of the snap has to go on before you mate the liner/shell. The thumbreak needs to go in before you fold it, etc. I would stich all of that together with the exception of the trailing, trigger guard side, until the very end, then wet mold. I generally stitch everything together while it's still flat. That means your pattern needs to be dialed in. I make "sketch" holsters with cheaper leather or scraps to make sure my sizing is right. Then I move onto the HO finished stuff. I always work the liner and exterior together once they've been bonded. That includes a set of rawhide lined quick draw holsters I did. (Those turned into a graduate course in trail and error.) You'll also notice there's no welt on that holster. Unless you have a heavy tack machine, you'd be asking alot to add one. Some of the hardware you see is proprietary (hence the Galco logo) and you may have to make due with what you have, and adjust your design accordingly. I use 1" metal loops, which can be had at Weaver/Ohio Travel Bag or Tandy, or a number of other suppliers. "Metal Loops" is what you're looking for. The buckle is a "parachute buckle." OTB makes some metal versions. The plastic can be gotten anywhere. Good luck! If this is your first, it's ambitious, but that's how you learn. Some of these big, involved orders turn into a real journey. I've felt like I'm sending a kid off to collge when I see them go out the door.

Thanks for the post, and the transparency. There's always a check list of considerations on holsters: Cover the trigger guard, DON'T cover the mag release (a PPK looks real interesting), leave a good purchase on the grip (cross-draws are tough). I have several TRASH CANS full of sketch holsters and screw-ups. When someone asks why things are expensive, I explain that we have to pay for the mistakes. That looks like a good design, especially for a first try at something a little outside your wheelhouse. Let us know how the light works out. A lot of us avoid those, myself included. Keep at it!

Tactical lights are one of the few no-go's for me. The round Streamlight variety are just not conducive, in my opinion. The flat lights that match the width of the gun are fine, but still not ideal. The width makes it hard to mold the leather, and keep it's shape over a large area, and holstering is tough. You lose the "funnel" effect of the profile. I liken it to trying to push a beer can into a coozie, with no side support' I'm not saying it's impossible, but I've had no luck on that front. That being said, if you figure it out, by all means, let us know. I've turned down many orders for that very thing. I refer them to a Kydex maker.

It there a trick to cleaning the leather residue left on a cocobolo burnisher? I have several of the Dremel burnishers and some have residue from too much heat and too dry leather. I like the smooth surface and don't want to sand them off. Surely there is a proper method. Thanks in advance

I just the hides in from exoticleathersbyray.com They look good, but kind of oddly shaped, with the "ankles" trimmed to a roughly straight hide. Good yield for what is there. It seems like they have plenty of selection. I may use them from now on. The price was great , too. Five hides for under $100 (as a bundle). Thanks for the reference!

Thanks, I'll look them up!

IS something going on with Ostrich legs? I'm looking for a dark brown, which is usually easy to find. Springfield has been my go-to for OL, but they seem to be out of about half of their available colors. Rocky Mountain appears to be completely out and anyone else starts around $50-80 per hide, still with no luck on color. I've liked OLs and I refer to them as the poor-mans-exotic since they look nice, but don't break the bank. Any explanation or other suppliers would be appreciated. (I just hope there isn't another ship stuck in a canal somewhere.)

A few months ago, I ordered a couple mold guns from KnifeKits. They have been a good supplier, not only for mold guns, but fasteners and small tools. I have over 100 molds form them. They have always been quick on shipping and consistent on price. The last order, from Mid-March took over a month to arrive. When I called, they said that USPS opened a new facility and I was "literally about the 400th" call asking for an update. They suggested I call to inquire with USPS and then I discovered it was up to them to call (which I suggested from the start). They guns eventually came, but I have been reticent to roll the dice on a bad turnaround time again. Has anyone ordered from them recently and has the shipping been quick (especially if you are in the north. I'm in OH.)

It's been a while. 2018 was the last I could find mention of the thread from a few years ago. If you are so inclined, post a picture of your shop, with: ONE photo and, ONE thing you Like, One thing you Don't Like about it. Like: It's small and everything is in reach. It narrows the search for tools ... sometimes. Don't like: It's small, and I'm running out of room, especially for Mold Guns

I thought I would give you all an update. The rig was delivered ... and the customer loves it! I must say, sending out an order like this is sometimes akin to sending your kid off to college. You put a lot of work and emotional capital into them, and then send them off and wish them the best. He did ask for a shorter version of the trouser belt, as he's on the 2nd to last hole (long distance sizing is always a challenge), which means I'll have a nice piece for the gun show table!

The local schools are on Spring Break this week and my wife and I went to the Cleveland Museum of Art for a day trip. We found this little gem along the way. I can only imagine the tools and practices used to make this. ... and talk about deep lines and relief! What are the odds any of our stuff will be under glass 600-700 years from now?

No steel is allowed on US Quick Draw Assoc holsters. It's all rawhide. 277 thread off the machine. I did hand stitch the welt, same thread. I always make my own patterns, which also allowed for the slight rear rake on these. Thanks!

I went through an entire side of rawhide to get this right. It's all about timing. Wet enough to mold, dry enough to cement. Once you start, clear your calendar because you have to work it until it starts drying, because it has to be set when you're done.