Lippy

Try this link. http://www.francecuir.fr/entreprise/regad-ets--romans-sur-isere-300461336.html If it doesn't work don't worry. The Mando website has all the information. These are pyrography tools with special tips for edging and creasing leather using heat. Here's a link to a previous discussion several months ago about the same tool. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=38750&st=0 Cheers.

The tool is made in Romans sur Isère, France by "Pierre Regad et Fils". They don't seem to have a website. Check this out. http://www.francecui...-300461336.html However, you'll also find the tool here, http://mando.fr/fr/17-fileteuse-manuelle. Be prepared to spend about $600. Cheers.

Were you thinking the Gomph 1080 steel set? I've attached the pdf. Cheers. ght, 15 tools sp.pdf

What a nice collection of photos from the museum. It looks like you had a wonderful time. Cheers and thank you!

Attached is another flyer for the Gomph Hackbarth "1018" tool set that shows what can be achieved with just those tools. Cheers! ght, 15 "1018" tools.pdf

It appears that Mando has updated their website. http://mando.fr/ It's now easy to see that they distribute for many different companies associated with the leather trades. P. Regad & Sons manufactures the leather pyrography tools distributed by Mando and others.

Here's an update to the tool search. It appears that the tool in Peter Nitz's video is made in Romans sur Isère, France by "Pierre Regad et Fils". They don't seem to have a website. Check this out. http://www.francecuir.fr/entreprise/regad-ets--romans-sur-isere-300461336.html I did try to send an email asking for more information to <regad@regad.fr>. So far there's been no reply most likely because I don't speak French. Cheers again!

Isn't Leatherworker.net just the best thing. And, what did we do before Google? Thanks for letting me be a part of this conversation. The reason I posted the links to the Janik pyrography stuff is for a price comparison. They may be less money. FYI, Mando.fr is sending me prices. I keep thinking it would be nice to find a USA power supply (ie. soldering, pyrography or hot wax pen) that would easily accept the Mando handles and tips. Then, there wouldn't be any electrical issues.

Attached is a brochure PDF that was sent to me by www.mando.fr in response to my email about the "tool". It looks like the Mando tips and handles would work on these products made by Janik in the UK. http://www.patrickfaleur.com/pyrography/wpage4.htm http://www.patrickfaleur.com/pyrography/wpage5.htm http://www.craft-supplies.co.uk/Pyrography/Pyrography-Machines--Accs/list.htm Cheers. Fine leather goods.pdf

The Mando website is a bit goofy. It may take some time to load. Also, you might try a different browser or www.mando.fr The tools are in a section called "fileteuse manuelle" According to Peter Nitz the French call an edge crease a "filet" hence the term "fileteuse". To me, the "power supply" appears to be the same type used in pyrography/wood burning in Europe. It looks like Mando either makes or has made the special tips for leather. The trick would be converting the power supply to work on 110 ac for those of us in the USA. Cheers!

After sending Peter Nitz an email, he sent me this link to the tool. http://mando.fr/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=184 The website is in French, but he said they can deal with emails in English. Cheers!

That looks like some type of wood burning tool/pen. FYI, burning a design into wood is called pyrography. Here's one link, http://www.woodburning.com When I was growing up "wood burning art" kits were a big deal along with "paint by number" kits. ;-) Cheers!

If you need an even smaller awl than the one from Bob Douglas you might try these links: http://www.vergez-blanchard.fr and http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products/Saddlers_Tooling.html Cheers!

Randy, Tells us about making your leather belt strop. I'd like to make one for my Harbor Freight 1 x 30 belt sander. I'm not trying to hijack the thread as I think this is still dealing belt sander sharpening. Cheers and thanks.

CW, Thanks for your post. So do you agree that after you braid the handle end then one would pull that whole loop arrangement with braids through the slits in the snap-clip end of the leash. Meaning . . . the slits must be long enough to get the completed end though. Right? Cheers, Lippy

Okay, I totally understand how to attach the snap swivel on one end of a leather leash. It's the same split braid / bleed knot technique as attaching a saddle string. My problem is how to make the handle loop end. Please see the attached image. How did they do it? It doesn't look like a twist braid. Did they start with the handle end and push the whole loop with braids through the slits for the snap swivel end? Any ideas? Cheers and thank you. Lippy

I've had good luck using a buffing wheel (not a flap wheel) to polish the edges of knives, edgers and punches. It was suggested by Herb French in his book "sharpening and Maintenance of Leather Cutting Tools. I've also found that using a Surgi-Sharp 1x30 leather belt on a Harbor Freight stationary belt sander works well with white compound for knife edges. A lot faster than hand stropping. My primary question still is which size wheel works best for my motor.

Speaking of compounds and buffing . . . My buffing motor is a 1/4hp unit turning at 1725 rpm's. I've been using 5" dia. x 1" wide buffing wheels. Is that the right sized wheel for general buffing/polishing leather tools and knife edges? Also, has anyone tried using a white compound called Fabulustre?

Thank Kevin! Where would we be without Leatherworker.net and the internet. Cheers, Tom

Anyone familiar with these tools? The mallets are odd shaped. Are they more for wood carving than leather work? The drill bit points look too delicate for drilling which is why I'm thinking more along the line of a space marking tool. Lastly, the "hook thing" with wooden handle is marked USMC. FYI . . . I just found USMC's website and under the resources tab, while wishing to find an old hand tool catalog PDF, I did find several very interesting PDF's on "the techniques, the history and the craft and art of shoes and shoemaking". http://www.unitedshoemachine.com/resources/index.html All comments accepted. Cheers and thank you. Tom

Hey Jim, I'd come hold the camera, but Google Maps tells me I'd have to drive (from Oregon to Childers) over 13,000 miles and it would take over 54 days. That includes tolls, a ferry ride or two and a visit to Japan. So that's not happening anytime too soon. However, I might suggest mounting the camera on a tripod or on a stand above your workbench. If the camera was small enough you could mount it on a hardhat on top of your head. And about thread sizes! Yikes. Attached is a chart I found on the web awhile back. Hope it helps. Cheers, Lippy thread_Verlane.pdf

Note to JIMSADDLER, Can't you find someone to hold the video camera while you show us the right way to hand stitch. You've always had the BEST ADVICE!!! Pictures and video are always worth a million words. Right or wrong, the guy in the video stitching the saddle part works for Hermes and they charge a whole lot of money for what he does. Cheers and many thanks! Lippy

Have a look at this stitching tutorial post. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12259&view=findpost&p=19889 And then . . . Here's a post link that has a nice video and links to hand sewing/saddle stitching info. Hope it helps. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28041&view=findpost&p=176210 The video from the Hermes site shows a fellow stitching a saddle component. Their leather goods are all hand stitched and they all cost buckets 'o money. Like $6,500 if you want to buy your wife a small purse. Have fun!

Generally a number 3 or 4 harness needle is my choice with an 18/4 or 18/5 un-waxed linen thread. The needles are much smaller than the crowbars sold by Tandy. First, you need a really sharp and polished awl. Then, you need to taper the thread ends as shown in the hand sewing book. It's harder to get a good taper with pre-waxed thread. Rubbing a little paraffin wax on the awl blade and the needles also helps. Here's a post link that has a nice video and links to hand sewing/saddle stitching info. Hope it helps. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28041&view=findpost&p=176210

Wow! I like the new friend. Thanks "Jeeperaz".