Martyn

Thanks. I've a way to go yet though, I think. Yeah, I tapped it down, I did with all of em. I think it's a bit of an illusion as they are all done with the same chisel and 0.8mm tiger, so should be the same (it's the same thread I used in the black and white candy stripe at the beginning). The chisel doesnt help though, it's a 5mm Seiwa (5spi) an the stitches are big sloppy things which just seem to magnify things like tensioning errors. I made a mistake buying it really. I've stuck with it hoping practice would get things looking better, but I cant see me ever using it to be honest.

Please do Bri. I've almost bought one a few times, but I've got a couple of bottles of 8 oz and some thinners for my glue that are too big. I was thinking of removing the shelf on the right and making one tall drawer for it. If you can take a look and let me know how easy that shelf will come out, I'd be grateful, ta? If it'll mod fairly easily, I'll get one, but I dont want to destroy it trying to make it work for me. Cheers

Well said. It was making me cringe on page 1.

I like the signature touch idea. I just did a few more rows. the middle is plain cream, but the top and bottom are a mix of dark brown and black. It's really hard to tell. You pretty much have to be in direct sunlight to spot it. Front... Back.... I tried your suggestion. In the above pics the bottom two rows are done as I have been doing, first needle from the left, crossing on the right, making the cast on the left. On the top row, I switched it all round. It took me 4x longer to stitch as it feels unfamiliar and I have to think about what I'm doing. I'm not sure if it looks better or not ...or if the differences are just down to my lack of consistency and mediocre skill. I dont think I see enough of a difference to make the switch to be honest. Part of the issue is that I've been practising stitching with an awl. I'm right hand dominant so I'm using the awl from the right and then as I remove the awl, following it with the first needle from the left. I've used a chisel to make the holes in the above, but for consistency, still use the same technique - only instead of going in with the awl first, I open the hole up with my right hand needle and then follow it out with the first needle from the left. This means I'm changing very little when alternating between using a chisel and an awl. I suppose I could make the hole with the awl, pull it out and then go in with the first needle from the right also, but it feels like adding an extra step. I would do it if it made a difference to my stitching though. But I'm not seeing much. What do you think? Cheers, Martyn.

Trial and error with the casing. Do a few samples, wet each one to a different extent, from quite dry to soaking wet. Leave to dry for varying amounts of time and try em out. You should be able to get a decent impression with a hammer, but you might need to tilt left, strike, tilt right, strike, tilt up, strike and tilt down, strike. On big stamps though, the best impressions will be from using an arbour press. You could try it with a vice if you dont have a suitable press. But if it's for a business and you'll be doing a lot of em, I would invest in a press. They are not expensive.

It needs to penetrate, it needs to be quite wet, wetter than you think, but not sopping wet. Give it a fairly heavy wetting with a sponge and then let it dry till it's 80% dry and almost back to the original pale tan colour. Then bash away. This is the quick and dirty method and not proper casing of leather, but it will work. Use the search function and search for casing leather and read up on how to do it properly. This will give you the sharpest and cripest results. ...or just get a bigger hammer. :D

I meant to say 2/0, not 0/2.

Silly question but did you case the leather (veg tan) first? I'm no expert, but I dont think chrome tan leather will work without maybe hot stamping.

I think it's just for international trade. I think some countries expect a #3 or a #1 to be a certain size, so they just package the same needles differently, just for domestic market relevance in a target country. If that's the case, I think they've dropped the ball. What they don't realise is that markets are becoming increasingly globalised. What would help is global standardisation, not relabelling the same thing in a dozed different ways. On that subject, you guys in the US really need to hurry along and drop feet and inches. It's a blimmin nightmare for the rest of us who've been metric for the last 4 decades. The English system sucks ...and I'm allowed to say that because I'm English ...and old enough to have grown up with it. :D

That guide doesn't appear to show the 'saddlers harness needles', which is the only ones I have (code L3912 size 2 or size 002). Here's the link to the JJ page: https://www.jjneedles.com/buy-needles/envelopes/saddlers-harness-needles-1.html#size-guide Size 1 55mm length x 1.02mm diameter Size 2 55mm length x 1.02mm diameter Size 3 55mm length x 1.02mm diameter Size 4 50mm length x 0.86mm diameter Size 18 (1/0) 57mm length x 1.09mm diameter Size 17 (2/0) 60mm length x 1.42mm diameter Size 16 (3/0) 62mm length x 1.63mm diameter According to that, it would appear that size 1, 2 and 3 are all the same. I ordered a pack of 25 a few weeks ago and recieved an envelope with size 3 written on it. I thought they had sent me the wrong needles, till I found out I couldn't tell the difference between those and size 2's. I also have an envelope with 002 written on it, this also seems to be the same size. However size 0/2 is different, it's actually a size 17. They dont make it easy for us do they? To be clear, These (55mm x 1.02mm)... are the same as these (55mm x 1.02mm)... but are NOT the same as these (these are size 17 62mm x 1.63mm)... Confused? :D

I still cant decide if it's cool or cheesy. I tried it with black and dark brown thinking that a more subtle contrast might work well, but my dark brown thread is almost black and the effect was lost. I'm thinking a mid-brown and tan might look good? One problem is how to start and finish it? Backstitching causes two contrasting stitches to sit in the same holes and it looks odd. Any tips?

Yeah, I'm still trying to get to grips with all this. I know that if you change one or more of these things, then 'something' changes on the stitch. What I'm trying to do, is get to the point where I can control it. In the above example, I'm stitching with the face/grain on the right (though it is two bits glued flesh to flesh in reality), first needle goes in from the left (flesh). The holes are angled up and away from me and I'm stitching towards me, so I'm crossing the needles underneath and on the right/grain. All good so far, I'm getting a nice, curvy, eye-shaped stitch on the grain, but it's a bit flat and a bit inconsistent on the flesh. So I throw in a single cast on the left, going under. The stitch on the flesh side dramatically improves, to the point where it's actually better than the grain side (see picks above). The only thing I've changed, is to cast the loop. The back gets a lot better, but the front gets worse. I've tried reversing the whole lot to make the back (now the prettier side) into the front, but I'm right handed and I find doing everything the other way round, quite awkward, particularly crossing the needles with my left hand. Overall I'm not unhappy. I mean I think the stitching above looks OK. But I'm just wondering is there is a way to make it better? Is there something I could change or do differently? Do others notice a deterioration in the face side stitch when they cast a loop on the back? Or have I got to the point now where I just need to point thousands of hours in for the consistency? Thanks, Martyn.

Well it seems my comment has been moderated (deleted). Seems it's OK for you to canvas for a boyfriend on a leatherwork forum, but it's not OK for me to jibe you for it. I'll haver to brush up on the rules, my apologies.

Candy stripe saddle stitch, is it really cheesy or really cool, I cant decide? I tried a test piece with black and white thread today and I dont know if it's just the novelty factor, but I cant stop looking at it, but I dont know if it's because I think it's cool, or cheesy. What do you think? Front (click to zoom) Back (click to zoom) ....on a side note, I've started putting a cast in my stitching and it's dramatically improved the lay of the stitches on the back, but it's had a negative effect on the front. The front isn't as curvy any more. Has anyone else noted that putting a cast in changes the front of the stitch as well as the back? Or am I doing something different? Cheers, Martyn.

Like many subjects, this can be taken to sublime extremes. The reality however, is that while it makes *some* difference which type of grade of compound you get, it's really not worth making a science out of it, you wont just be splitting hairs, you'll be splitting atoms. In the UK a compound called 'starkie blue' is popular and is really very good. But it's not magic, it's just a medium grade compound. Any medium grade compound will do the same job, even automotive polish, toothpaste etc. Just get a medium grade compouind of whatever type you want and use it. Regarding diamond pastes, yes they are good, but again, dont kill yourself over it. Certainly dont spend a lot of money on fancy formulas claiming a billion carats per gram. I suggest getting one of the multipack trial samples of THK diamond paste on ebay. They are a Chinese brand and the samples vary from 5 micron, down to 0.25 micron. I've found the 1 micron to be a good 'fine' paste and a good compliment to medium grade starkie blue. YMMV.

Does that take me off the shortlist, or put me on it?

Thanks Bri. Same here. Have a look at this one mate... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182002729931?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT That's £24 quid and the depth of the draws internally is 11cm. That's deep enough to hold the 4oz bottles (10cm high) of Fiebings dye, resolene, tanners bond etc and the top shelf for anything too big or spools of thread or something. That's big enough for me as I only use the small bottles of dye, might be too small for you if your needs are a bit more industrial? I'm real tempted by that.

What's the catch? Are you being stalked by a jilted Russian tank mechanic? Six kids? What?

...probably lousy carpentry and poor quality wood, but has to be better than plastic trays!!!

Hi Ray, actually I think these boxes are all made in China. You may well find similar on ebay.com, in fact I'm sure you will because there are some almost identical popping up on ebay.uk but shipping from Canadian and US sellers. Try a search for 'wooden desktop storage drawers'. Failing that, here are some ebay.uk listings... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wooden-Storage-Drawers-Small-Chest-Industrial-Urban-Shabby-Chic-Style-SALE-/322011101409?hash=item4af95b78e1:g:uYcAAOSwDuJWxDym http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121875468682?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182002729931?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT These are US sellers on UK ebay listings... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rustic-Desktop-Wooden-Office-Organizer-Drawers-Craft-Supplies-Holder-Storage-/151966893268?hash=item2361eec4d4:g:YPsAAOSwa-dWq4K- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Desk-Top-Wooden-Chest-Storage-With-4-Drawers-/222024403919?hash=item33b1af8bcf:g:4qoAAOSwUuFWwQ9w This one is direct from China and is only £15 and £3 shipping (probably take 2 months to arrive though :D ) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271688755669?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Finished my organiser box... That's 100 holes exactly. It was a major job working out what I wanted, ho big they needed to be and where to put them. I bet I spent more than 3 hours just making out the drilling template. I'm happy, it turned out quite well, no major disasters. The forstner bits are amazing (used for the big holes), really quite a clean cut. I used regular twist drills for the smaller holes and some of the holes are a bit raggy. It's good enough though. Just the job for me really. I dont have a dedicated leather-working space so everything has to be portable and compact. I can get most of my most used tools in there and there is a little room for a few additions too. I need to expand my range of pricking chisels, so I've accounted for that. Just found this on ebay... There's loads of em with different numbers of drawers and such. This one measures 35cm x 35cm x 15cm so nicely desktop size and looks perfect for storing rivets and needles and such. Best of all, £40 quid delivered. Could even take out the top row of drawers and drill holes in the top fort another organizer. :D

OK, so I dont really hate flowers, but I'm definitely on that path. I would like to try my hand at carving. I've never done any and my head is full of dragons and science fiction images, viking sagas and celtic patterns, but every time I look at a tutorial it's telling me how to carve a flower. Is there no way I can learn to carve without having to carve hundreds of flowers? I'm not being glib here, seriously, floral designs leave me utterly cold.

Wow, well done, that's tons better than my first. Your wet forming looks really good. You've got a few dropped stitches which are putting a wobble in your stitching line, but aside from that, really good.

I realise this is an old thread, but I was having this same problem and figured out exactly what was causing it and thought I would comment for posterity. When you create the knot, you pass the thread either under or over the needle, depending on the direction in which you are stitching. If you stitch appears 'wrong' in that the threads are emerging from the opposite point of the diamond hole to where they should be coming out, then you are either passing the thread over the needle when it should be under, or passing it under when it should be over. If you reverse whatever it is you are doing, the stitch should be corrected.

Horizontal at the back, scout style? Or across the belly, pig hunter style? I'm actually a bit confused. You can make it however pleases you, obviously, but the knife doesnt look like a fighter or a pig-sticker, so I'm wondering of the benefit of horizontal carry and quick draw?