Shelly

AVAILABLE FOR SALE - Campbell/Randall Lockstitch Sewing Machine- $5500 OBO. Located in Mineral Wells, TX. This is a really good machine - makes great stitches, very pretty work. #7852 - this heavy stitcher has stitched saddles that have won top awards at Big Bend, and contests in CO, etc. This machine includes everything shown - 7 bobbins, speed reduction wheels, various tools, a pack of needles/awls, a book, table, bobbin winder, and an extra arch cover for the various attachments that can be added. I love this machine, but I am trying to et a bit more room in my shop. Pick up in Mineral Wells, (50 miles N of Ft Worth). Call or email for more info - 940-682-5657, mjliggett@gmail.com

AVAILABLE FOR SALE - Campbell/Randall Lockstitch Sewing Machine- $5500 OBO. Located in Mineral Wells, TX. This is a really good machine - makes great stitches, very pretty work. #7852 - this heavy stitcher has stitched saddles that have won top awards at Big Bend, and contests in CO, etc. This machine includes 7 bobbins, speed reduction wheels, various tools and a pack of needles and awls, a book, table, bobbin winder, an extra rear arch cover for the various types of attachments that can be added, etc. I love this machine, but I am trying to get a bit more room in my shop. Pick up in Mineral Wells - PM for more info - mjliggett@gmail.com, or call 940-682-5657

Hermann Oak has buffed hides. I think you can get them buffed from Wickett and Craig also. Costs a bit more. You can use an orbital belt sander on the parts you need to take the fuzz off as well. Just do what needs done, what is seen. I'm not sure what grit to rec as I only buy buffed hides for rough out saddles...

REINING SADDLE TREE FOR SALE, BUILT BY STEELE SADDLE TREES #1 horn - 2 3/4" high x 1 3/4" cap 16" 'in wood' seat length gullet - 8" x 6 1/2" 13 1/2" bottom bar spread - front 13 1/2" bottom bar spread - rear 4 3/8" handhole spread 12 1/2" cantle width, 1" dish, 3 1/2" high CS front, 12" x 3 3/8" thick 8" waist Yellow Pine covered w/fiberglass, with fiberglass strainer Price: $250 plus shipping/box This tree will have a nice, narrow feel for the rider when finished out!

Postage to Australia is something I would have to calculate after I know what you want...I can put the strap blanks in an international shipping envelope, weigh it, and get a quote for the shipping. Then I will let you know what that cost would be... Let me know what you want to order, then I can put that into an international mail envelope, get a qoute for shipping, and let you know...

Total agreement here, Keith!! I do have some heel shaves, and will most likely sell them. I like the quick change out on the blades, also, and have never get mad when I nick those!! Shelly

ANYONE INTERESTED IN SPUR STRAP BLANKS! PLEASE EMAIL ME PRIVATELY, RATHER THAN THRU THE FORUM, AS I AM NOT GETTING ALL THE INQUIRIES ABOUT THE SPUR STRAP BLANKS. My email is: shelly@liggettenterprises.com Website: www.liggettenterprises.com Thanks!

I can sell you the blanks - I don't usually do the edges, as this is something I leave for the crafter to do...I would need to know which style you are interested in...I click these out with dies, so the only patterns I have available are what is posted in the pic on the forum... ML The only straps available are what is shown on the diagram I posted to the forum. I have dies to click these out with. I do not use dies to 'stamp' them, as I do all that by hand...

Hi, Yep, we can still make these up - just let me know which blanks you are interested in, your shipping info, and I will send you a quote for them... Shelly

I use a 12" tuperware pie safe for my strings that I'm cutting, and I store the cut/ready strings in another one...so have two for two different stages. I keep my project strings in the tuperware that I will be working out of, and I will still usually have to rewet a little before braiding, either with saddle soap or with warm water, with a quick dunk and shake off excess, then back into the humidifier for a few minutes. Then soap and braid. I strongly detest yellow soap on rawhide work - I only use white Fiebings saddle soap, but any brand will suffice, as long as it's white. I have seen some very nice braidwork that was made nasty looking by the application of lots of yellow soap!

Beautiful, as always!!!! Love seeing your work!!

Hi All, I just listed the last edgers that I got from Don King, in 1996. I hadn't planned to sell two of them, as they are not marked. And, the one that is marked was overlooked in the last group of edgers I sold on Ebay - this one was on my other bench, out of mind, until I was over there looking for something else the other day, and found it! Anyway, I assume Don just didn't mark these other two, as he did send me some of the tools he had on his personal bench, and I assume he made these up and either forgot or didn't bother, since he was using them himself. I think anyone that knows his work will recognize these as his. Good luck in the auctions - don't be looking for any more collectable tools from me for quite awhile now - probably not until I am retired and can't carve or stamp any longer! Shelly

Hi, Just now listed a 3/4" Walt Fay Veiner on Ebay, and three Don King Edgers, all acquired by me personally from these men, in 1996. Unfortunately, two of the edgers Don sent weren't stamped with his name...they came from his personal bench, and I suppose he forgot to do that, since he was using them himself. Anyway, I can vouch for the fact that he sent them to me, and would sign any documentation to that statement. I'm sure most anyone that knows Dons tools will recognize them for his, regardless. Don't know if you are still looking - these are all that I have left to offer up. Thanks, Shelly

Hi All, Just listed the last Walt Fay Veiner I have on Ebay - also listed are the last 3 edgers I own that were made by Don King, all from his personal bench. Only one is marked - the other two are his, and anyone that knows his tools will know it when they look at these. I suppose he didn't take the time to mark them since he had them on his own bench...he sent these to me in 1996, when we did a bit of business together - his museum has one of my custom bosals in it now, as part of our tool deal back then! Good luck in the auction! SL

Hi, I may post some 'how i do it' pix at some point, but not likely in the very near future - have 5 saddles to finish, as well as some braiding work, (which I've already done string for), and lots of repair work to do...Oh, and did I mention that I'm left handed?? I'm afraid pix may confuse anyone that doesn't 'think' about it first...some things I do as a left-hander, others as a right-hander....! I'll try, but can't make any guarantees on this request right now... SL

If what you are cutting feels like you are cutting plastic, it's too dry, and you've missed the best temper. When I have rawhide that gets this way, I will dip it in warm to hot water, until it starts to soften up, not soaked, and shake off the excess water, and into the humidifier. I use a 14" Tupperware pie keeper. Have two, for stuff that is made up, and ready to braid with, and stuff that is getting prepped. I keep paper towels in the bottom, and put a few over the rawhide, to keep the moisture from condensing on the string in any one place. Plus, the dry paper towels will absorb excess moisture from the string. I check it - if the towels are damp feeling, and the string is too damp, I will change out to more dry towels. I lay the damp ones on the bench, and use them later for other things, or, if they are dry and I need to change the towels again, I switch them back in. Will do this until the strips are where I need them to cut, bevel, etc. Another suggestion on blades is to use a permanent marker and mark the cutting edge end to end with the marker. As you pull your string, you can see where the unused area of the blade remains, and can move it up/down to get full use of it.

Just what I was about to say....!