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  1. If only I was in LA to snatch up a 227R and a deal on a bell skiver...
  2. Troubleshooting notes: I jumpered the foot lift signal on the circuit board directly from the -FL to the common and the solenoid actuated and the foot lifts. I disconnected the lever and jumpered pin 1 to pin 4 which is assigned to S3 and nothing happens. I jumper pin 1 to pin 2 and the machine runs, pin 1 to 3 and it trims. i confirmed in C mode that foot lever pin 4 is matched with signal II and closes S3. i also note that the presser foot lifter input is vacant on my controller. IF is assigned to signal F in the C mode menu. So I’ve ruled out the solenoid and the foot switch as the errors once again. And the programming seems to be correct. Could there be a setting that is disabling the foot lift?
  3. I will double check that. Of note is that I haven’t changed any plugs or board connections. I stopped working when I got into the settings menus to change my backtack pattern which is why I think I must of accidentally messed up a setting somewhere. I appreciate everyone’s help on his. I had to laugh that someone was looking at a potentially full function Adler as their first machine and the comment about frustrations of controls on full functions was made. They are great for production work but my all mechanical juki takes the prize for one off work simplicity!
  4. So that is on page 79 in mode E. When I full back pedal S3 goes off to on. F stays off. Advice? I think F is what I need to go on for proper foot lift.
  5. Edit - I had the wrong limiservo type. Correct is XC-FMFY-20-05 so I went through all the FUM, FU, etc. I followed the trouble shooting guide I found in the downloads from MJ Foley. I reverified the solenoid is functional, but I also verified that while signal S3 goes signal F does not. But I can’t find where signal F is set other than in the key areas Gregg mentioned above.
  6. Hello all - I have a Durkopp Adler 767-FAS-573 equipped with a Mitsubishi Limiservo X B series control and motor. It has a Mitsubishi XC-CL-2 foot lever unit. Here’s what’s happening: i went to change the auto backtack from two stitches to three. The machine was working fine. I made the backtack change and the presser foot no longer lifts at the end of the stitch or with partial backtreadle (programmed to go needle down, presser up). Troubleshooting: At full back treadle it does the end backtack and the thread trim cycle and the presser foot lifts momentarily when the thread trims. Therefore I know the pneumatic valve for the presser foot lift is getting signal and actuating. I reassigned the partial back treadle to the backtack cycle and forward treadle to foot lift. Partial back treadle worked properly on the backtack cycle, full forward did nothing. So I know the foot switch isn’t faulty. I reassigned the functions to as before and they work with the exception of foot lift. I looked at the locked out functions. Foot lift is turned on. Should work. Doesn’t. I did a factory reset of the control. Foot lift still isn’t functioning. Everything else works. I sent the control to a company who specializes in Mitsubishi controls out of NC with this info. I think they just did a factory reset and shipped it back, but they confirmed that the control is functional, no burnouts on the board. Still no foot lift. clearly the backtack pattern is the issue... changed it back, still no presser foot lift. help...
  7. I bought this from Weaver a month ago and unfortunately it isn't what I need to do the job. It has maybe 40 clicks total on it. Literally got it out of the box, set it up, clicked and realized it isn't going to do it - what I'm cutting is way too narrow and the die won't eject the slugs. So, my loss is your gain. It's all back in the box and ready to ship. You basically get a like new clicker with all the original stuff that came with it. I did mount a back stop on the clicking pad to align my work, so there are 4 very small holes (less than 1/8" diameter each). How does $900 plus actual shipping costs sound? Or you can pick it up in Toledo, Ohio. Call me or send me a message - Jesse (419) nine 57-402one I have several pictures but there isn't much to show - its a like new clicker press. If you want to see them just ask and I'll happily send.
  8. Problem solved by Cowboy Bob! On the 305 the stitch length adjustment is linked rather than separate. It is the front screw on the collar just left of the timing belt and arm linkages as shown in the pic. Thanks Bob!
  9. Thanks Mike. Didn't catch that but it's fixed now
  10. Been reading the forum for some time but this is my first post as I couldn't find the issue anywhere else. I am recommissioning a Singer 144W305 (S/N AN321834) and everything has gone very well (special thanks to Cowboy Bob - my local industrial sewing machine guy - for stocking tons of parts for this machine!) I have the machine running and pretty well adjusted but I can't figure out how to adjust the stitch length. The manual on the Singer website is pretty straightforward, but I don't have the plunger (J figure 14, page 12 and 13 of the manual). Instead, there is a bump in the casting where that should be. I took off the window to check out what is inside and there is no adjustable eccentric on the shaft where that plunger would engage. There is a push button on the right side of the bed though. Without the plunger how is the length of stitch adjusted? Can't seem to find anything online about this. I attached a pic where you can see the single push button on the bed on the far right with scissors pointing to it and the lack of a plunger on the casting with a screwdriver pointing to it. Can anybody help?
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