CaptQuirk

@bikermutt07- Yeah, loading them isn't fast or fun, but... even when empty, those hog legs are fierce weapons. You just beat the person to death with them

Hobby Lobby is fine for beginning, that is where I went when I was near one. Problem is, it is almost a 2 hour drive to the closest one. They sell veg bellies for maybe a bit less than Tandy, without the shipping. Another source that nobody mentioned, is right here. There is a for sale section that could get you started with many of the basics, even leather.

I started shooting with a Super Blackhawk, just couldn't find one I could afford. Thus, the Uberti .357. Not a bad gun, it always goes bang when I need it to.

Where you buy your leather makes some difference. Lots of folks carry the Herman Oaks, at different prices. The location of where you buy can make a bigger difference when you figure in shipping. That said, while I was searching for leather sources, I found Panhandle Leather, located somewhere in Texas... don't remember where exactly. The thing is, they are likely closer to you than many of the sources mentioned here, That means the product will get to you sooner, and cost less to ship.

6 guns aren't quick to load, which does suck, since I can empty it as fast as a semi auto. But, on the other hand, a wheel gun always goes *bang*, unless it is empty, or seriously fouled up. So yeah, you do have some valid points there.

@bikermutt07 - Western 6 guns? That is how I got into leather, I bought an Uberti Cattleman in .357 and couldn't find any western rigs. What I found online were very pricey or too cheap to trust. So, I made my own. When I go out into my woods, I need to carry, and the western rig seemed to fit. Nobody else seems interested in them, unless they are into Cowboy Shooting.

Thanks for that name drop, I'm looking into them now. Kentucky isn't too far off. How is their quality and customer care?

Well... I would never have thought of that. Thanks Troy.

The one guy I made 2 holsters for, has a 2" and a much longer model, maybe 9"? He has a buddy that also has the 2" model. As far as how hot they are? No real clue, but there have been several sold by the pawn shop I frequent. I would ask your local gunshops what they are selling the most.

Just finished my 3rd Taurus Judge in a month or so. .45LC with 2" barrel.

Hey Ed- Don't know if you are still following this thread or not, but I ordered the BlueGun from HolsterSmith.com yesterday afternoon, just got it. With shipping, the price was about the same as what Ring's wanted for just the gun. They have a good assortment of holster gear and materials, at a decent price... compared to some other sources I've used. Since they are fairly close (Same State), the shipping rates and delivery times work out way better than going through my regular places. If you are in the south, I highly recommend giving them a look. I just have one question- The dummy came with a wood dowel. What do I do with that? Sometimes I feel like Stallone in Demolition Man, and have no idea what to do with the 3 shells

I'm not too big on tooling either, but then, I'm new and have no clue what I'm doing. I usually just do some border tooling, and leave it at that. Then I tried to expand my horizons, and do a basket weave. I don't have a vacuum machine or press, and just use a bag of rice to form the leather to the gun. I'll try just wetting the inside next time. Thanks for your advice.

That is a clean little holster! I can't tell from the pics, but is it open toed or sewed closed?

I have done 2 holsters with a basket weave. Both times, I wet the leather after stamping, so as to mold it to the gun. Both times, the stamping ends up more warty than weavey when it was done. Not trying to form the leather to every nook and cranny, just take the shape of the gun so it fits right. Is this wrong, or is it just my technique?

That might work. Thanks Matt!

Thanks Michael, but a quick search showed them from $35 to $50. Not quite as cheap as I'd like, and I am well known for cheap strippers...

I have been learning to do mystery braids, and started using them for safety straps on my holsters. They look pretty sharp. However, I can't seen to cut them too well, and am wasting a lot of leather trying to cut the strips straight. Any advice that doesn't require spending a lot on a new tool?

I have been doing mostly revolver holsters, and put some form of safety strap or hammer thong on them. However, all these pancake holsters I've seen are strapless. What is the story?

Hey Ed, I didn't know about them either, but I kept looking for the best price. They are also in Georgia, so I'll get my dummy likely tomorrow. As far as the "HolsterMold", I asked about it. It is "like" the BlueGun, but the trigger area is filled in, not open. Not sure if that will affect you or not, but I spent the extra few bucks for the BlueGun. Besides, Ring who makes them, is in my old hometown.

I got an Osborne awl. Does that count as Tandy crap? I have no idea what names are best, and just buying cheap until I can learn to use it... just like all the other newbs

I was just digging for an idea of what its worth. Not having been in this for long, I really have no idea what the "acceptable value" is. Everyone tells me "Your time is money". I agree, but not sure of what its worth. Being a novice, I take a while to complete each holster. Not their fault, so it wouldn't be fair or reasonable to charge them for that. I could crank them out faster, but the quality would go way down. Then they wouldn't want them. So, yeah... in the end, it is up to me what I charge, but I would like to be within a reasonable range.

How do you like your Glock?

Thanks again JLS, I really appreciate your advice and insight. I never, NEVER let any one have both the merchandise and the money, unless I have done a lot of business with them. Found out a long time ago, its easy to hand stuff out, not always easy or possible to get the money. As far as pricing, how much can I reasonably charge? He's getting $69 for his holsters. I have been charging $65 to the average Joe. If he does mark up like most folks, that would mean he'd expect me to sell to him for about half of his price. $34.50 seems low, considering the amount of blood that gets spilled.

I am buying cheap needles... just a guess? Not flexing them or torquing them as far as I know. I use the diamond awl and wiggle it a bit, to help make the hole a little larger for the needles to pass easier, but I obviously haven't got it quite right yet. I have also found that the blunt end of the needle penetrates flesh easily.

I use a pair of hemostats for pulling the needles... who knew they could work for that? I also break needles like you wouldn't believe, always at the eye. What does the stitching palm do?