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CaptQuirk

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Everything posted by CaptQuirk

  1. I'll likely be doing an Uberti 45LC next week. What pistol do you have there, and is it what you used as a holster mold?
  2. I read everyday I can as well, but only what applies to what I'm doing at the time. It helps keep me focused, and not so overwhelmed by the realization that I know very little
  3. Just did, thanks. Not a place I've shopped before, and while they don't hve the specific model, I should be able to get by with a large caliber S.A. Thanks for the point out.
  4. Yeah, that's it...my boys loved to watch Pinky and the Brain too! Wait, they weren't born yet... Nice Job
  5. Sure... only a few thousand posts... I should be good to go in a couple years Now THAT was good humored sarcasm! There are a lot of good posts, and lots more ideas than I could ever find on my own. Just takes time to sort through them.
  6. I haven't found anything close to it yet. Is there a Blue Gun, or other make that will work?
  7. @Newtoleather1- No sarcasm or rudeness meant. As mentioned, I am also fairly new to eatherworking. Like you, I have found myself wondering what the steps are, aside from what I was doing. I found a list that had been added to, with a lot of info on why you do many of the steps I didn't even know about. As a matter of fact, I have been looking for that thread again myself, and as mentioned, it is a very wiley and elusive thread.
  8. There is a very comprehensive list of step somewhere in the beginning section. I know it is there, because I read it last week. However, it is a wiley thread, and very good at hiding. You'll have to sneak up on it quietly I think.
  9. When I was taking the course on P.S., I found the need for custom brushes. It really is as simple as taking the image you want as a brush, and saving it as a brush. You can then set it up with jitter, and "walk" the stamp like you would for a backgrounder.
  10. First, I'm not set up to make the brushes myself. That would require a scanner, and the stamped impressions. I haven't got a scanner, and only a small handful of stamps. Other than that, it is fairly easy to make your own brushes.
  11. Computer help section, so here's a computer related question- Are there any PhotoShop brushes available, that are leather Stamps? I'm talking about number so and so pear shader, number so and so backgrounder, number so and so veiner? I think I could have some fun planning projects using them as a visual reference.
  12. No, power outages aren't an issue. No t.v. because the storm is blocking out the satellite, that's a problem. However, we have some 400 DVDs, so we can find something. No power because the genny blew up (again), that's a real problem. Speaking of which, our Harbor Freight genny just blew a hole through the bottom of the crankcase the other day. Need to borrow a truck and drive an hour and a half to the closest Harbor Freight to get it replaced. Now that's another problem...
  13. @cdthayer- No machines, I do all my sewing by hand, and do a lot of bleeding doing it. I understand your reluctance to go off grid... having to go out in the rain and cold to start the genny, or try and add gas before it dies. But, since we also live in the middle of nowhere, on a clay road, if there was a severe storm that took down powerlines, nobody would come out until it dried out. On the pro side, there are no neighbors for a mile in either direction, and I'm free to do as I please. That beats snap on electric any day in my book.
  14. Very true. I sort of forgot about that, since we are out beyond city limits, and there are no codes. That would need to be done by a licensed electrician. Hopefully, your local contractors understand how to work with solar equipment. However, it would be easier to set up a separate power system to plug into.
  15. We live off grid, meaning no city utilities. Depending on the size of your operations, power needs, solar panels and a good battery bank could take care of lighting and computers. When your power needs exceed the battery bank, a $500 generator takes care of the rest.
  16. I like apple pi, warm, with cheddar cheese on it I never used CAD, when I was doing any architectural or mechanical drawings, it was with rulers and pencils. I learned graphic arts back when cut and paste was very literal. Move ahead a few decades, and I took a computer graphics course. Photoshop was an awesome tool, but I also got to use a 3D modeling and animation program. As close to CAD as I've been, and it is still a lot of fun to play with.
  17. Thanks to all. You've done opened up a whole new world of things to do.
  18. Don't quote me on this either, but going through the Tandy catalogue, I saw something called antiquing gel maybe? And the picture showed a sort of crackle finish. As large as the section on gels, dyes, and stains is, it was easy to get lost and confused. Lost and confused seems to be more common than you'd think...
  19. @bikermutt07-I thought antique gel left a crinkled finish, like a crackelure(?) glaze for ceramics? @TinkerTailorResist... Thanks for that. Is that for the second technique, or are they the same?
  20. Being very new, all I know is how to dye using a single color. That's pretty boring, when compared to some of these pieces. Really nice scrolls and flowers in brown and tan, contrasting black background. Or single color, with darker color filling in the nooks and crannies. I don't have an airbrush, and don't see one in my near future. So please, name the techniques, the dyes or stains used, and a quick how to do them? I mean, if I know what it's called, I can google it for full details. Not knowing what to search for makes it really difficult. What I'm doing is obviously wrong, as I have serious bleeding issues.
  21. That is some beautiful work John. Is that shoulder cuts? And what about the cartridge loops?
  22. @JLSleather-, I thought it looked unfinished too, but like i said, it also doesn't make sense to line the unseen back, but it does look better. As for dressing the unlined flesh, what do you do? I've tried sanding it down and dyeing it, but it is hard to get a clean and smooth finished look.
  23. Red Bear, Yeah I actually have that PDF, and it looks like the whole skirted holster has the lining. Wasn't sure if that was the norm, or just his preference. I am working on a modified version of the skirted holster, where the holster hangs low (about 3") and the skirt is nothing more than a belt loop. It didn't seem right to only line up to the bend, and didn't make sense to stop it before the loop either. But it seemed like it wasn't right to line the unseen flap in the back either.
  24. Got a question or two for the more experienced holster makers. When you are making a holster, whether it is a skirted holster, or one with a back piece that goes much higher than the front, where do you stop the lining? Say the back becomes a belt loop, do you line all the way to where the loop terminates? And along the same line, if you don't line it, how would you finish the flesh side?
  25. You might have to be more specific, I have lots of problems!
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