CaptQuirk

I use the Fiebings Black dye as well. The first coat doesn't always do the job well, so I rub it in good until it evens out. Then the second coat and see where it goes from there. A lot of the issues come from when I forget to clean the leather after tooling. Handling transfers oils and dirt from your hands, so clean it good before dying. Edgecoat helps give a smoother appearance, but you sometimes have to sand it down and apply a couple times. Most folks here recommend using the Neatsfoot oil after dying... I think it helps treat the leather after the alcohol in the dye. Tools I didn't see on your list, are stitching chisels, also called by other names like pricking irons I think? They help give you neat little holes for your needle and thread.

Try hitting it with some mink oil. That should hlp soften it up, and protect/condition the leather. Your girl did a very nice job, that is awesome stitching for a first timer... I'm actually a little jealous! Last Christmas, I cut out a guitar strap for my oldest boy, threw in the hardware, and said "Have at it". With a little guidance, he drew a pattern, transferred it, and tooled the leather himself. When he started getting compliments from not only friends, but guitar stores too, he just about burst with pride.Me too

Well, ok. That sort of explains it. Those customers ask for weird stuff sometimes

I really dig that scale stamp! Quick question though, why didn't you pad the butt of the rifle stock? That is where it would really help absorb the recoil.

Brother, you ain't kiddin!

@craftsman827- Who is S-T?

I'm using a 1/4" poly/nylon cutting board, sitting on top of a 1" slab of granite. Not much bounce there. Thanks for the pointers.

Since mallets were mentioned, I have been tearing up my wooden mallets on hole punches. How well do the polly mallets hold up?

Thanks, I did find a few threads, and even mention of a fly press. Maybe someday I'll have the cash and the room for something like that.

Dude... I guess I need to Goggle that, because it seems like you are leaving out a detail or two

Are there any cheap redneck engineered options?

Being the odd duck that I am, I'm going to ask a different question... What leather is used, what hardware is needed, and where would you get said hardware?

A member here, RaySouth, often has weird and obscure stuff like that for sale... not the instructions, but the project itself.

Instead of just buying books willy nilly, try your local library. I really hate buying a book at some over inflated price, and finding out it is almost useless. Even in my small town library, they have access to so decent books, like Al Stohman's stuff. I just have to wait a little for them to get them in. Free is better than $40, or whatever amazon wants. Another thought, a member here, RaySouth often has Lots of books for $40 and free shipping. Try contacting them and see what they have.

The trick I learned, was to take a 1" strap of leather that is roughly the same thickness as what you will use. At one end, measure off a 1/2" (I use 3/4"), and draw a line across the width of the strap. Lay the pistol on top of the strap, with the bottom of the trigger guard on the line. Fold the strap over the pistol so that it hugs the curves, and mark the strap where it meets the bottom edge below your your half inch mark. Measure the distance between the second mark you made, and the bottom edge of the strap. That is how wide you need to make the holster pattern. You can also use this method for measuring the barrel.

Everyone has their own preferences, so you will get a lot of back and forth. So, that said, I'll throw in for a shoulder holster. Even the heaviest of pistols carry comfortably... and it won't drag your britches down.

Yes and no. If it is the next big thing, like the George Foreman Grill, you get it trademarked. If it is something like our holsters and sheathes and stuff, how original is it really? Most of us are just making variations of something else anyways. And exactly how many people around the world are looking to buy that exact item? If people want it, and you promote it, sell it to them. If you have something that people want, how many are you actually capable of making anyways? 5? 10? 5,000? I think there is a little room for copycats.

I don't work with 64ths, as I can't see that small anymore Seriously though, I'm going on THEIR word that the leather is actually 8oz, or 10oz, or whatever it is that I order. I don't have calipers to measure it out, and my ruler goes as far as 16th's. Anything smaller would be just a blur anyways. But thanks for your input as well.

As far as I know, what I have seen is pistol with, or pistol without. Why sell you one thing, if they can sell you two, right? And Dwight is right about the holster turning on the laser. Did one for my wife's SD40, and it takes some positioning to move the switch so it doesn't come on when holstered. I know, that isn't the answer you want, but it is the best I can offer. If you want the real poop, get it straight from the horse's... mouth? Contact info for Rings

I had a whole slew of pics on PhotoBucket, not leather, just stuff from life in the woods. Almost all of them are missing, and contacting their support is impossible. Seriously, they hide contact info, so that you can't reach them, unless you want to BUY some of their stupid stuff. Anyways, when it comes to my leatherwork, I deal with local folks. I usually have at least one of my holsters in the car to show as an example. But, when somebody else talks to about my holster, there is nothing to show, unless they have already bought one from me. Word of mouth is great, but it really doesn't work. So, since one of my skills is web design, I'm in the process of putting my work online with contact info. But, it's been a while since I did any CSS style sheets, so it is taking a bit to knock the rust off. Still a work in progress, links and layout are in flux, but take a look ifn you want. SmokeWagon Leather

To be honest, I haven't done anything on this... yet. Too many other things going on right now IF I can get focused on it again, I'll let you know.

Ok, thanks guys. Those are the answers I was looking for. It isn't as much a matter of where I buy, as much as what length I buy. I really don't have the money to spend on more advanced tools at this point, as it is still in "hobby" stage. Sure, I am making and selling, and want to insure the best quality that I can... and I should be able to do that with basic tools. But at least I know what to look for before buying, and I owe you folks for that.

Thanks for the tip on wetting the hole. But nobody has actually answered the question- What is the right length for 8-10oz leather? A lot of places sell snaps, and most of them are different length from the next dealer. Anywhere from 3/16 to 5/16 is what I see, but what they say will work, doesn't always work.

As if installing snaps by hand isn't difficult enough... I was having issues installing line 20 snaps in 8-10oz leather, especially if it was lined. I was told to use the heavier line 24 snaps. "Cool", I thought, "That sounds easy enough!" Apparently not. I ordered some line 24s, and the website said (I think it was them) that the shaft was 5/16". After ruining several, I start measuring the shaft on the snaps. It was 3/16", and on top of that, there was about a 16th recess on the snap. Using 7-8oz leather, the shaft cleared the leather by about a 16th, maybe a 32nd of an inch. So, the shaft was just inside the snap, with a hair of clearance. I called the company back and asked about the snaps, thinking there was an error in the snaps. "No, we use them all the time on 10oz leather in the shop." Turns out that they are using a hydraulic press to set them. So, my question is, what is the right length of shaft to look for? Using 7-8oz leather with 2-3 oz lining, these snaps won't cut it. I had a hard time setting them in about a 5oz leather, and I am using one of those punch setters and the little round anvil.

Those are some long guns right there! I guess that would make those long stem roses? Really good job on the tooling.