Denster

BRL. I'll be really interested to see those pics. That was just a guess on my part as to how to do it. Good looking holsters BTW.

I think I know what you are asking. Haven't made one but this seems to be the way to do it. Glue and stitch only the front wing first. Fold it out flat to sew on the throat collar and where it reinforces the sweat guard the wing will have to be flexed out of the way as you sew around. I believe that would work. Then glue and stitch the back half. Anyone have a better way chime in.

That's pretty slick Josh. I'm anxious to see what you work up for the harness.

Jeff Something came to mind as I was cleaning and checking my machne today. I noticed that my thread takeup arm bracket had slipped slightly and I had to adjust it. That can also cause somewhat of a problem with pulling the thread into the leather. The way you check for this is to hold your handle all the way upright firmly and try to push downward on the thread takeup lever. It should not budge even a little bit. If it does you need to loosen bolt SM100-17 and rotate the arm bracket CAR-11 upward untill it is in contact with the thread takeup arm and retighten bolt SM100-17. The spring has enough tension that it will usually pull the thread into the leather with normal sewing and cause you to miss that the CAR-11 is not in full contact except when extra pull is needed ie: when lock stitching. Just something to check out.

Jeff That unfortunately is one of the bugaboos of machine stitching. You are locking your stitches the right way. The problem is that for the double stitches you are putting twice the amount of thread through the same hole and the upper tension is not tight enough to pull the loop into the leather. If you set it tight enough to do that when you get past the double stitches your bobbin thread will be on top of your piece. Not good. The only solution I have is what I do. After stitching I lightly case both sides of the stitchline and put the face on my granite slab and tap the backside with a cobbler's hammer this closes the holes and also generally puts those double stitch loops below the surface. For the really stubborn ones I have a needle size blunt awl that I use to poke their heads down.

If it is the newer model with the needle positioning lever and forward and reverse lever and it is in good shape then 1500 is a fair but not great price. If it is the older model without the mentioned items then 1000 is in the ballpark.

Both Lobo and K-Man make excellent points comming at the situation from different perspectives. Both make attractive, serviceable holsters and accessories. Lobo's is a retirement business and I would guess that he has about reached the limit of what he can do and still leave time for the important things (beer and poker) without taking on help. Considering the exposure I see him getting on some of the forums that may be in the near future. Kevin is aggressively growing an allready (deservedly) successful business and probably ships at least 10 times Lobo's volume per week. For him automation is a must and the cost of dies and a clicker would be quickly amortized vs salary+benefits+workman's comp etc. I would guess it depends on your volume of business and where you want to go with it. For myself I can make 20 to 25 holsters per week in the time I want to work. I don't ever want or need to be larger than that. So my perspective is different. Also I'm always tweaking designs or doing somethng different not a situation where a clicker or dies would be useful.

Easy way to find out what clicker dies would run. Just fax a dimensional diagram to Weaver or Texas Custom Dies and they will shoot you a quote. $50 is a bit on the low side I'm guessing between $70 and $120 per die depending on complexity. Jeff fromBoomstick holsters uses his hydraulic forming press to click parts. My personal thoughts are that if I had a huge order for the same type holster I might buy the die and pay Weaver to click the parts for me. As to using the same die for different holsters if you have to do much trimming might as well just cut it out from the start. It would take a long while to amortize the cost of a press and dies for a three or four minute time savings per pattern.

It depends on what time frame your manual is from. I have three and two show looping around both tensioners and one shows just comming in the backside of the first tensioner as you displayed. That method is sometimes useful when using really heavy unlubed thread but has the drawback of the thread popping out as you mentioned.

No not a vacuum sealer like a seal a meal. What I use is a vacuum bag and separate pump like is used to glue veneering. Do a search for vacuum and you will find a post where I posted pictures of the setup and sources for the materials.

Midway is a good source also but they normally only have four or five models actually in stock fortunatly they are different models than eBay.

Mike Just go to Particles website and click how it's made. The entire video is there. Particle will probably have to break it down into two parts to post it on you tube.

Well Particle you've proven that you're not just another set of pretty hands. Seriously though I was very impressed. The quality of the video was far better than I would expect from a first attempt. A lot like your holstermaking. As to the content I didn't see anything wrong. I do some things differently and somethings easier but that is always the way. No one can argue with the finished product at all. Congrats.

If it is important to you to have a really smooth interior, make a lined holster. Use 3/4OZ for the interior and 5/6OZ for the exterior glued flesh side to flesh side. That gives a total weight of 8/9OZ adjust accordinglly if you want heavier.

I thought this might be of interest to some of the holster makers. There is an eBay seller of Ring's Blue Guns that actually has them in stock. 17 different models currently $42.95 ea. Just do a seller search for tatedefense . Or you can do a item search for 1911 blue gun .

The Boss can handle it without a sweat or damage that is not that much to punch through. I'd guess that the quality of the outcome would have a lot to do with the quality of the paper. I would guess that you would need to back off your bobbin and upper thread tension and add more presser foot pressure. Cut some sheets of paper into fourths and make a test stack and give it a whirl. Let us know the results.

Forgat something. You mentioned a video. In an earlier post on Avenger holsters Particle says he will have a video posted by the first of the week on holster making. You'll want to check that out. Look at the detail in his holsters and you will see why.

Whatever tool you use to mold needs to be polished to a very slick surface as any imperfections will be transfered to the leather. My most used tool is a antler tine polished to a ball end on both the thick and point end. I also use a set of wood clay sculpting tools. Cheap set on eBay for about $6. These are basswood and need to be sanded and burnished before use. I also use the ends of sharpie markers. Most people make the mistake of having too much moisture in the leather and this causes problems. This is not the only way but it is my way and works for me. I dip the holster in warm water with a small squirt of diswashing liquid in it. 5/6OZ is just a quick in out 8/9OZ gets about a three second dip. Let all of the moisture sink into the leather and you are ready to go. I form my holsters in a poly vacuum bag and bone the detail right through the bag. Most will not have this setup so you can do the same thing by forming the outlines around the gun by hand then put it into a heavy freezer bag and bone the details through the bag. When boneing the details it helps to have a picture of the gun beside you or you will forget details or at least I do. Resist the urge to put anything around the gun like cling wrap when you put it into the holster that will work against getting the lines you want. If you are worried about your guns finish apply a thin coat of Johnson's Past Wax and buff it out. I have some blued guns that I've used to form over 500 holsters and the finish looks like new. The wax will also prevent a chemical reaction between the steel of the gun and the tannins in the leather and leaving black marks inside the holster. This only happens if you had a little to much moisture in the leather as most times the gun will come out dry. Also it does not take much force to bone in details use only enough to get the leather to follow the lines of the gun. Hope this helps.

Really nice. I like the highlighted colors gives it a touch of class. Thanks for sharing.

A lining really isn't necessary however a welt along the edge side is useful to protect the stitches.

Very nice work on the sheaths. The knives are drop dead gorgeous.

That is what I use are two Weaver head knives. Sold my Osbornes after I got them. I think they have just about the perfect blade geometry. I have noticed however that Hermann Oak is more difficult to cut. If I've been cutting patterns from HO and then switch to some of the imported shoulders I use I have to conciously slow myself down as the knife just flys through those. Even hard jacked horse hide cuts easier. On the up side I think this characteristic of HO is also what makes it such a wonderful leather for holsters. I don't have an explanation for this it's just what I've observed. I have noticed that a wipe of beeswax on the sides of my knife blade eases the passage through the HO. Did I mention I'm really looking forward to the video?

I'm looking forward to the video also. You do realize that since you mentioned you are making a holster for your Kahr that you are obligated to post photos of it:) By the way you mentioned your dull head knife. Do you strop your knife between patterns? I found that with religous stropping between patterns I can go two or three weeks before actually sharpening my knife.

Your holster looks dark brown. I always get jet black with vinegaroon. How'd you manage that?

Ordered a 1&1/2X3/8 and a 1&3/4X3/8 total cost with shipping was only $144. Very good service and they appear to be excellent quality. Like an Osborne on steroids. They did require a little reshaping on the ends and sharpening as they only come rough ground. Not a problem about fifteen minutes work and they cut through 8/9OZ HO with one whack from a 3lb maul. Edge seems to hold up well. I'm happy.