carguy4471

Thanks for the input. I had a sample of shark sent out and much of it is dried and cracked. I don't know if they just sent some junk or does this happen with shark hide?

I'm not so much interested in inlays, but rather full or partials overlays. What exotics would you recommend to start with and why? I'm hoping there is something out there that'll take a burnish or at least cut clean to make nice edges. I'm told shark is a good one to start with but I'd enjoy having more than one opinion on the matter. I'm interested in things that are tough and provide durability if that matters at all. Thanks for the help everyone!!

Although a bit harsh sounding on the surface, it is in fact how I evaluate a purchase as well. I'm not going to pay more if I can't see why in the quality of the product. Although I don't sell leather work, if someone asked to buy something from me it isn't going be spendy.... the quality just isn't there yet and I could not in good conscience charge what they'd pay for something I know would be far superior. The one thing I would add to the above, I do tend to pay for experience. If I see two equal products and one is done by someone with 30 years experience and the other by someone with 1 year under their belt I'm going with experience even though the quality appears to be the same.

And they don't list the kimber 5" 1911 in cocked and locked.....

So where are the best prices on these suckers?? And maybe other mold guns if they are of good quality. I've only ordered a couple and payed the full $50 at bluegunstore. Should I look elsewhere to save a few bucks?? If it matters any, I'll be ordering a full size 1911 here in the next day or so. Thanks everyone!!!

$0.02 for a rookie so take it with a large grain of salt. I use a groover to sink where my stitches will be. Then I use an overstitching wheel to mark where my holes need to be. Then I use a diamond awl from tandy (polished up on a stop) and punch the holes. Lastly I use two saddlers needles (I think they are called) and saddle stitch with two needles. My stitching looks great. Evenly spaced and now that I've done almost a dozen holsters I'm pretty quick at it. From what I've been told this is very sturdy stitching that will really last. I could use almost any size thread. I did make one upgrade from the above, and that is putting a machine sewing needle in a drill press to punch (not drill) the holes instead of the diamond awl. It's a little faster but it's much easier on the arm. I didn't even bother buying one of those stitching awl things. I don't like the lock stitch vs saddle stitch. I'm going to stick with what I'm doing until $1700 drops from the sky to buy a cowboy machine.

That little story had me gigglin' somethin' fierce.

I have signed up for the Tandy military discount and I must say, it's allowed me to buy many more tools from them rather than order online. I think it's great they offer it. On another note for anyone unaware, Cabela's offers a 5% military discount everyday on all items. In addition, they haven't forgotten about LEO and the like. A few times a year they have a 3 or 4 day deal for "hometown heroes". This is for LEO, firefighters, EMTs, etc. I work there part time and think it's great they offer something to those serving our country. 5% doesn't sound like much but it can add up quick.

I'm not a big fan of the basketweave either but I thought it would be a fun, simple and inexpensive way to try out my first stamping project. I think it was worth it just for the reps behind the mallet. I made two identical ones, one for the XDM and one for a G19. The black one is also the only one I've had the privilege of making out of herman oak. Some nice leatherworker was kind enough to send me enough to try out and compare to the economy grade shoulder I've been using from Tandy. I learned quickly that I'm either buying the best stuff Tandy has on hand (and ignoring the price) or finding a way to get some herman oak. In all reality, the economy shoulder isn't ALL bad. But in less than a dozen holsters or so I've learned to eyeball the parts that aren't going to be great for a holster. Typically nearer the edges. The bulk of the center is ok-ish. Still not near top grade leather but certainly decent enough to practice on and start getting my feet wet. Every holster I make is noticeably better than the one before it is some way so I feel I'm doing alright so far. This is mostly due to the folks here that have taken the time out of their days to answer my endless sea of questions. They'll know who they are.

Here are two of my latest. Thoughts? 20170220_214649 by Duane J, on Flickr

Can I ask what leather you are using??

I have heard of someone using the canon pro 900 which has a straight through feed but I think they could only get 3 ounce leather through it. My feed is not straight, but close. I also use 9 ounce leather though.

Inketjet? Laser? Is this something that could be done in my canon pro 100? That sucker will print canvas.

How is this digital printing stuff done??

Was the mix you applied to the inside of the holster also a resolene/water ??

Here's a bit that's always amazed me. I don't find ornate leather tooling to be my style, but I still find it amazingly artful and beautiful. That really is a piece of art. I think I spent 10 minutes looking at those photos. Fantastic work!!

Molding firearm was wrapped in saran wrap. Die looked great prior to molding. I did use bare thumbs to for the holster, could the wet leather have transferred oil from my hand at that point?

That's a great tip, thanks!! Oh, and 50% water with the resolene looks much better!!

Finished up holster #2 this weekend. Did a few things differently. This is an avenger holster for an xds with mag carrier. Thanks to JLS for the fantastic pattern.

Thanks!! I did a fair bit of research before diving in, as I feel if I'm going to do anything I want to do it well. Research and good intentions won't substitute for experience though. I'm just happy my first holster wasn't a throwaway. My buddy is currently wearing it and says he loves it. I have got his mag carrier ready to mold and die/finish up the edges. So he'll have a matching set. I also started on an xds avenger style holster and a mag carrier for myself, should have some photos of those up soon. They were dyed last night and getting some stitches this evening.

Well, here it is in all it's glory. I've learned a ton on just one holster. There are probably very few things I'll even do the same from my first to my second. Thanks to everyone who had some input, I really appreciate all the help. Can't thank everyone enough. And JLS particularly for the pattern and the guidance. Hopefully I didn't disgrace your pattern too terribly badly.

Well, she went into the food saver last night. Wow, that little bugger has some serious horsepower. I did not expect it to draw that leather as tightly as it did. A few fun tidbits I picked up during the molding process yesterday.... Pay attention to the leather thickness a pattern was made with if you are using a pattern you procured elsewhere. My patter (thank you JLS) was setup on very slightly lighter leather than I have. I could have adjusted the stitch lines out a hair. I had to get pretty cave man to get the bluegun into the holster...... But I did get it. The backside of the foodsaver bag will put a checker pattern in your leather, and a paper towel will not stop it from doing so. I knew it could and that I should put something in there to prevent it but thought a paper towel would work. Luckily, I really like the pattern on the backside of the holster. Next time I'll use something else to prevent it. I also discovered that I completely and utterly hate fiebings USMC black. Seriously!! I buffed for a bit before wet molding and still once that holster went into the vacuum bag my hands were black. If anyone wants the rest of this bottle I'll send it off for the cost of shipping. I'm on to oil dye, grabbing some after work today. Here is what the holster looked like this morning. It sure isn't perfect. It has some not so perfect tooling marks and some duller spots that I think just need more buffing. But, this is my first holster, and first leather project. It does though lock the firearm in very tight with zero movement and has solid retention, and it draws clean with a solid yank. All in all I think it's a win. I still need to do more buffing, gum trag the edges and then neetsfoot and resolene. Pointers are more than welcome, but do bear in mind it's my first go. And thanks again to everyone for all the pointers and input thus far, and JLS for the help and great pattern.

Ok, gotcha. That makes more sense to me.

So I'm not buffing with a dry cloth at all then. Just a wet one to clean it off and then a fresh clean one to buff. I can deal with that.

That's what I needed to know there. Hopefully it doesn't take me all dang night, I was hoping to mold that sucker this evening.