mixmkr

biker...yes this is for sale and I own two of the Sewquiet motors myself (not for sale). I also bought a 50mm pulley for them...but seems the 6000 came with one. It was an odd size shaft...metric I believe and had to hunt a little to get a pulley that would fit as they weren't that readily available. Cowboy... I guess you're saying allow some slippage, so the motor turns a tad... then catches. That might work I know Sailrite proudly touts their servos and even use a cogged belt, plus their larger handwheel on the machine for momentum. I order a lot from Sailrite for my supplies, but kinda feel their machines fall a little short and the extra money spent is worth it in the long run. Their service is stellar though and you can chat with them online anytime. I don't stock supplies, because I can get it from them in 2 days. Off subject... they replaced their Sailrite 111 with the "Fabricator".... supposedly a couple of 111 upgrades. http://www.sailrite.com/Sewing-Machines/Industrial-Sewing-Machines/Sailrite-Fabricator-Sewing-Machine

Thanks Bob... yes...both feet lift the same and the JUKI 562 has a wingnut on the back, specifically for this. Duh... looked in an old manual I had tucked away. Thx for the reply Uwe,...yes I was saying I wanted to increase the max step height. I was wanting to cure...as you said; . With BIG steps, I do as you say, by manually raising the presser feet, going stitch by stitch...and coax the material by gently tugging on the backside, to help out the feed dogs. Sometimes it would catch on the outer dog, so I ground out one of my dogs with a more rounded approach surface, so the "square" edge of the dog wouldn't want to catch as easily. Thx for all replies.

https://reliablecorporation.com/products/sewquiet-6000sm-servomotor I have this and the 5000, its' predecessor. I bought them, at a point in my knowledge level, that I just "needed" a servo motor at the time. Wondering how it stacks up to other brands, etc. I must say I like them and they seem to do the job, but I have nothing to compare, except the monster clutch motors I replaced. I tried adjusting, feathering, pulley reduction for about 3 months until I cried "Uncle". Couldn't just do TWO stitches reliably without doing more. The Servos....these Sew Quiet .... They kinda 'grunt" when I do 10 layers of Sunbrella at super slow speed....but once I'm going, it plows right thru. 6 layers or less, it's very responsive and moves my JUKI along fine. 550 watt (the 5000 is 600 watt) and 3/4 HP each. Seems typical. Seems I paid around $170 or so a couple years back with free shipping.

thanks Floyd. In looking at other similar machine .pdf files, I think the "banana" linkage is on the back side...and yes I was able to adjust it and it made a BIG difference in stepping over thick seams. The adjustment is about a 1/2" either way, with a pin, sliding in the "banana linkage" and being tightened with a nut (in my case a wingnut). I've been eyeing the 1541 and will look closer at a 441. I never go above 138 thread and use a #22 needle typically. But I do an amount of canvas work professionally, a trade I am just getting into my 2nd year of. No shortage of business, living on the lakes. So I need a machine that gives me a good stitch consistently, so I'm not wasting time or sewing thru expensive materials like clear vinyl...as I can't really pull stitches out of that, once gone thru. Probably the same as a nice piece of leather. In studying stuff like the Consew machines and their manuals, it seems they are all pretty similar.

When sewing, how high should the walking presser feet lift off the fabric? On my JUKI LU562, it seems to be about 2-3mm. What's happening is when I come to a THICK seam (I'm sewing marine canvas), the middle foot and needle can't move the material, because the outside foot is still clamping down. Gradual thickness changes are fine and it can sew thru 10 layers of Sunbrella fine...up to about 3/8"+ or so. Just not from 3 layers to 10, without getting caught on the outside foot. Seems if the presser feet had a greater travel distance when sewing, this might not happen. They both seem equal at this point too. I've studied UWE's vids and any others pertaining to this machine I'd appreciate knowing about. Lastly.... should I keep this machine or consider something in the same league but newer?... Seems the LU1508 would be a step up, with slightly better thickness capabilities and higher presser foot lifting (when not sewing), while machines like the Consew 206rb5 and clones seem to emulate my LU562. I'm ONLY sewing marine canvas for the most part. But I'll have some seams from time to time that are like the wall of China.... i.e.....bias binding folded over with 40mil clear vinyl with a couple layers of Sunbrella.....then back to 2-3 layers of canvas.

I'm using a JUKI LU562 and it sews fine with 92. I switch to 138 and my upper tension has to be soooo tight, it seems out of range. Granted, I'm use PTFE Tenara thread, which Is so slippery. My Singer 107W! hates the stuff and misses too many stitches. I think the LU562 is in the same range as these Consews. I too am tired of tinkering and would love a 100% working machine. Spending a hour on dinking with the machine is a waste of $$

quality

thx for the tip Tinker

I've got some extra inner feet and may end up doing this as well...rather than the slit the long ways. I ordered some in the other thread already cut... will report back

thx again Uwe. Yes, those tools are already in the arsenal.... I do an amount of gelcoat repair work also with my various high speed grinders. I was going to probably just use a hacksaw!! -D However, I did buy some off Ebay...another seller.....we'll see. I notice the Pfaff have different set screw locations too... just used the pic to illustrate the search

thx guys. Will get the 'late" Christmas list together....

Thx Uwe, much appreciated. Merry Christmas! :-)

Where are the presser feet available, specifically the middle foot with the "slot", so the thread can be pulled thru, rather than feeding it thru the hole? Looking for walking feet for JUKI 562/563. Or...are people just cutting a slot on existing feet? I guess I can be careful!! I guess these Pfaff would work, except they have teeth, that I'd want to grind off... But that middle foot is what I'm looking for. PFAFF 145 545 1245 SINGLE LEFT TOE ZIPPER WALKING FOOT SET 40474 & 40475 1/4"

Thx Keith. Yes I saw that thread and re-reading after watching Uwe's vid, it makes more sense. I find that dialing back the stitch length, which is probably basically the same as decreasing the limit on the stop, solves it for me. To the point I'm not really even seeing a shorter stitch length, because I'm only dialing back just the smallest amount. Keith...did you remove the 2nd stop on the underneath of the machine? I found that to leave it on, I would have to grind the end (opposite of the set screw w/lock nut), to get my 8mm length. Otherwise the stop would limit the stitch to about 6mm or so. I may do the grinding, if I feel so compelled to put that stop back on. Uwe's vid indicates it's redundant.

One other question... If you didn't care about matching up reverse and forward stitch lengths.... I suppose you could increase the forward stitch length, sacrificing the length of reverse?

BTW, here is the link to Uwe's vid, if others haven't seen it. VERY well done and highly recommended for "learners" such as myself.

Uwe....following your [most] excellent YouTube on the LU563 Class adjustments, I [gleefully] adjusted my stitch length out to about 8mm or 3 stitches/inch. Previously it had been much less....about 5mm. Seems to be working just fine. I went to the max, and then dialed back just a tad, so I wasn't at the extreme limit. For some reason, ONLY with material being sewn, the forward/reverse bar was slightly moving, but I could not see or hear anything that was hitting. Free wheeling the machine all was OK. But "dialing back" just a small amount, totally eliminated this movement. Like I said, the handle ONLY moved with material being sewn, not freewheeling. Forward and reverse are matched up too. (btw, I'm guessing that the machine had had these limits set for YEARS and with further lubrication and use, will adjust to the longer stitch length as the lever feels a little "gummed up" at the extreme ends now...PAST where it used to be. NOT hitting anything, but just a little stiff) My questions are: 1. Why would there be a 2nd limit (end stops) underneath the machine? Also, this little bar would have to be "ground out" at the limits, to let the machine do its' 8mm stitch. The limit bar seems to allow a max of about 6mm. For some reason, I have this "fear" about removing [safety?} features or something that was originally installed on such a nice machine. Obviously the adjustments on the outside...on the side of the machine do the trick, but is there ANY way should that fail, that the machine could damage itself without these limit restrictors in play? 2. Running the machine at a decent speed, now with the increased stitch length, can anyone see a reason why this could be harmful? Basically the forward/reverse lever has no restrictions now, but after careful inspection, I'm not see what might happen to create any damage. I guess this is just like a early Christmas present to me. I had wanted a longer stitch length out of my JUKI LU562, and this magically IS the trick. Almost too good to be true. Totally makes this a "new" machine. But admittedly being fairly new to the machine (I've only tinkered with it for about 2 years now), I don't want to wander into territory I shouldn't go in and do something regrettable. Uwe...again...wonderful vids and THANKS. Hopefully you or others could weigh in on my concerns in my questions above.

Never mind...I read in the YouTube comments that answers my potential 10mm forward stitch length. Hoping on this end that I don't have the "factory set length" type of machine.. but I do have reverse on my 562

Uwe...Your JUKI LU563 vid was fantastic. Besides the exceptional quality, VERY useful. I have one question. Since it appears stitch lengths can be independent of each other in forward or reverse, I assume the forward stitch length could be increased to a max of 7.5mm (or more), not worrying about matching up with reverse? I have no need for matching holes in detailed leather work, but in my marine canvas, the longest stitch length up to 10mm is desirable. Backstitching is only for locking and appearance is a LOW 2nd in this small area. I'd love to increase my LU562 (assuming it's the same as the 563) to the machine's maximum. Currently I'm getting about 6mm. I'm going to need to spend some quality time and match your video to my JUKI. Great work and thanks!!

I kinda have a similar setup on my LU562, so I can swing my right angle binder in and get it close. The presser foot plate is ground out a bit too.

I'd try some 135x17 #16 or #14 ...but the smallest I could ever find where the #18. I use a lot of basting tape. That watch band looks great!! :-)

Ha... suggestions from the Cowboy to the Ultrafeed. Don't forget this... it's pink too! Good grief ;-D Ha...go ahead and laugh. I used it today. Made a silk purse out of a sow's ear! Seriously ...hemmed my work shorts. I'm ready for springtime!

Let me say too.... take my advice with a grain of salt. I've been doing marine canvas as a business for only a couple years now, but like to consider myself a quick learner and have been servicing boats for 30 yrs.....just not the canvas. I bought out a shop and had a couple of people I could ask specific questions.... but yet they didn't want to tell me "TOO" much!! But I think my advice is right on the money and just pick what you have a gut feeling to be what you'll need... IOW not a flatbed...not a light duty....etc I had no idea what a JUKI LU562 was when I bought it... just that it did what I needed it to do. Imitate others with their machine choices. That's why everyone is asking, "what do you want to sew??" (Then they'll tell you to get what they have!!! lol!)

they're other human beings, each with their own opinion. Shoot...if the $ wasn't so much an issue, get the Cowboy from one of these guys here...or the clone. Seems like they'd re-sale fast too if needed. Unless you're sewing silk undergarments, that machine ought to fit your needs as a starter. I guess I was waaay off base with the Sailrite. I have no idea of your budget or how much you want to jump into this.

so.... let me know how you like the baby Sailrite! :-D Actually....learn a couple of "desired" machine model numbers and keep your eyes open for a used one. If you're in not hurry, wait for one and grab it when one comes available...but check it out if it's used or go to a dealer and pick one up. Whether it's the right machine or not, you need to start your learning curve asap, as it seems you know enough to talk about this stuff to be "dangerous". If you're just going to use it "as needed", then I don't think you'll go wrong with the little Sailrite. I've got its' "grandparent"....the Thompson PW201 mini walker, and it's a cute little beast. Makes a racket when sewing, but plows thru 6 layers of heavy marine Sunbrella canvas with heavy thread without sweating. Great "occasional" machine. No need to have a Cowboy 4500 sit in the man cave, if you don't ever use it...... well... If this is a new "hobby"..... you'll keep pretty much keep whatever you buy...unless you're accused of being a pack rat!! So...get your "first" machine now... Pick one!! (I'll stop pushing now)