matthewb137

It would suffice for starting it seems. I'm guessing it uses Regad Tips by the one picture? Do you happen to have one yourself by any chance?

Thanks for the tip Jersey. I'll have to browse around when I get into work.

That looks pretty nice. Does he have the F series and S series tips too do you know? How hot does that handle get? And where did you get a power plug?

I tend to do several light coats of everything. That way if I make a mistake or want to fix or change something whether it's color shade or what it's not too too late.

I thought there was a third site for it, I couldn't remember the name of it though. Fine Leatherworking. Rocky Mountain I knew, but last night I wasn't able to select the 110V model, now that you posted it I can, weird... Rocky Mountain definitely seems to somehow be much cheaper once you add in the tips, etc.

I'll have to see if I overlooked those smaller brushes in the store. The second brush will actually pick it up and not smear it or anything at all?

On probably my second coat there wasn't much red pulling through. Third made sure none was pulling through just like yours. Fourth coat seemed to be a bit more polished and clean to me. Do you use thinner or thicker coats?

Leather is definitely more of those tips and tricks learned over time more than a read up and watch some videos type of craft. Anyone can do it, but it takes time and patience to excel at it.

I didn't resolene between dying and painting due to resolene being a sealer. I didn't apply the resolene after painting yet though, I'll do that this evening and see how it holds. I've read plenty that you could resolene the dye and then paint, and plenty that you shouldn't, but I was always afraid the paint wouldn't stick as well, especially when I'm doing things such as shields and radio straps for firefighters. They're known to get beat up. You could always try letting the dye and resolene sit longer, more so the resolene, and then try. I've always done enough dye until it stops sinking in, then wiped it off, so there isn't much that really has to dry. Resolene I only ever did when I was completely finished but before I did stitching, so I couldn't tell you how long exactly to wait. Do a couple test scrap pieces and see what works best for you. I'm definitely interested to see what you find out.

I actually JUST did this. I dyed it red, wiped off the excess. Then I put Aussie Conditioner on it (not necessary exactly, depends on what the project is for) maybe a couple minutes after without a problem. As soon as I buffed out the conditioner I put down a very light coat of white angelus paint on the letters. That first coat the red will still be seen partially. I then repeated about two or three more thin layers of white and it came out completely fine. That's just what worked best for me so far.

Does anyone have information on where to find a Hot Creasing Iron specifically in 110V for the US? I found a couple Regad M3000, which is lovely, but only the machines (no handle or tips) and they all seem to be 220V-240V. Campbell-Randall is all sold out. Any other options or places out there?

I've been looking around for them, but can't seem to find any with varying sizes. Do you remember where you found yours? My next step is to snag a couple IV Catheters (18G - 24G) and a 5mL syringe off the ambulance and try that...

Looks good! I just made a few glove keepers for myself and friends on the fire department. Currently working on a shield for a guy on another department, which has a few other guys interested. Radio straps are up next. Two questions for you, though. First, how exactly did you hand paint the letters? What kind of brushes and any tricks to keep the paint from getting in the grooves? I tried with 1/2" letters, came out horrible. Tried 3/4", came out much better but still not perfect. I'm using Angelus Paints. Second, is that one whole single strap?

I'm from the northeast US. Northeast PA to be exact. But due to my work schedule I usually just have everything shipped to me rather than go and get it myself. I usually get thicker leather (about 10oz) for the radio straps, helmet bands, etc I make, but am looking for something more 13-15oz in weight. I'm also on the hunt for a good exotic supplier such as gator. Watches have always been a big passion of mine, so I'm looking at getting into watch bands when the time comes. I'd also like a good English bridle supplier for wallets and such. So really I'm looking for 1) good, heavyweight leather such as Hermann Oak which I have a side of now, but it wasn't too great (although that may be because it was from Tandy) 2) a good exotic supplier 3) a good supplier for English bridle 4) a horween supplier for further down the road

Besides your basic companies such as Tandy, Springfield, and Weaver to name some, I'm interested in hearing of some other companies you guys use. I'd preferably like to start sourcing leather from smaller, much more high quality companies/tanneries. Or even if there's any in other countries that have a decent shipping cost overseas. Give a shout with who you use or who you know. It's greatly appreciated!

That's actually a great idea! I didn't even think of that. I'll have to try it.

So to start off, I've never been a painter. Ever. I've been trying to paint 1/2" stamped letters with Angelus Leather Acrylics. I'm using a Round 1 brush and I can't keep it from getting into the outlines of the letter. Any tips? Or how I can maybe clean off the acrylic after painting? Without leaving a stain on the Red Dyed leather?