lovetocreate

Thank you everyone for the responses and positive comments!!! You all made my day !!! I look at the the amazing leather pieces that others have made with veg tan leather, and not sure if I belong here as I work lighter weight chrome dyed leather. Thank you for validating what I do.

Thank you CowboyBob. I'll stick with clear oil, I want my machine to keep running for a long time. Would it be something it it lasted another 100 years?!

Thank you Vaelloc and TomWisc! The eyes are reverse painted and have about 15 layers of paint. They're fun to do but time consuming (and the paint takes a while to fully dry with all of the layers)

Thank you VYO!

I'm impressed!

Thank you DFH!

Here's a wallet I made with a handpainted glass eye. The greenish textured leather around the eye is pigskin. Here's looking at you!

I'm the new owner of a Singer 29-4 machine, this is my first experience with a machine of this type. I have a reprint of the manual which shows oiling points; I've circled the areas in red where I think it might be better to use a grease rather than and oil. When these machines were made, they didn't have the types of machine lubricants that exist now. Since there are "gears" on the machine , would it be better to grease these areas rather than oil them? If so, would something like Tri-Flow TF23004 Clear Synthetic Grease be a good grease to use? Any other areas where grease might be better? Which oil would be better to use on the areas the areas that need oiling Lily white or Triflow? On my embroidery machines, I was told by several techs at different shops to use triflow on them instead of regular machine oil. Thank you for taking the time to read this and any help.

Very nice!!!!

Thank you for the compliments! I know it's not your traditional leather work. I just really enjoy working and creating with the lighter weights leather (versus veg tan). Plus I don't have the tools for veg tan LOL I'll take the pictures of the inside of one as soon as I finish another one. (The ones shown have sold)

Here's a few refillable leather sketch journal covers I've made:

Thank you for the compliments!

Fantastic!

Thank you for the suggestion about slipping the belt off. Will make that a habit along with regular oiling

Thank you. I used an embroidery machine to do the wolf. It is a special digitizing program that creates the files that can then be read by the machine to stitch.

Here's a small cross body purse I made and with a machine embroidered wolf. It's made from a soft garment leather and is lined.

Thanks everyone! I found some sandpaper and lightly sanded the pulley and the belt as it was new (I didn't see catskin's message above - LOL) It's working better and only slipped when I tried more than 2 layers of leather (upholstery). I'll experiment with different size needles. Here is a sample of the stitch out.

Thank you everyone for the suggestions! I ordered rosin from amazon, should be here in 2 days. I didn't make it out to the store today to purchase sandpaper, plan on going tomorrow. Is there a special type grit of sandpaper you would recommend?

Thanks for the suggestions! I'll try lightly sanding and will report back on the results.

Thank you for the suggestion. I really didn't want to sand and possibly do more damage than good if there is a better way. The belt is a new leather one, is there something I should do to or put on the belt?

Hi, I just purchased a Singer 29-4 from another seller on this list. It's a beautiful machine and it stitches well when turning the wheel by hand, however, the belt is slipping and when using the treadle. The seller painted the machine and I think that is the reason why as tre wheel is very smooth (painted with epoxy with clear coat) Any ideas on what to do so I can use the pedal to stitch? Thanks !

It is beautiful and it's mine! Woohoo!!! Seller did a wonderful job with the restoration and the machine stitches great!

Thank you for the compliments! The eye was reverse painted on a 1" glass cabochon. The painted is applied to the flat back side in layers, with the black pupil being painted first. Then various layers of color are added for the iris. As far as the creased, sculpted leather, here's how I do it. I use a thin piece of leather as a base, then apply a light coating of barge cement to both the eye and leather, and glue the eye to the base piece. I then cut a slit and little smaller than the width of the eye in the "skin" leather. I fold the leather back to form and upper and lower eyelid, then basically shape and fold the the leather to create the creases. When I am happy with the look, I use just enough barge cement on both the base layer and skin, to hold the shape, being careful not to get glue in the area where I'll be stitching. I added some stuffing around the eye (in the purse) to create a brow bone and check protrusion. Again adding a little cement to hold the leather in place. The eye piece is then sewn down to a piece of stabilizer and the surrounding leather is put on top and sewn, then trimmed. (This is known as reverse applique). Sorry if this is clear as mud, it's fairly easy to do, but hard for me to explain. A point to bring up is that the "skin" leather is a thin leather, so it is fairly easy easy to shape and stitch.

Thank you everyone for your input and responses!