JSLeathercraft

I'm a beater as well. LOL! Thanks for mentioning the press. I haven't been on her site in awhile but now I have something else to add to my list of tools I crave but don't really use enough to justify the cost of. HA!

I agree with fredk. You might search for triple anvil, cobbler's anvil, or shoe anvil here in the states. Dragon is a brand you can search for. They are always on ebay. You can usually find old cast iron anvil stands with the different sizes to go on it at antique shops. I'd grab a couple of those and you could do both shoes at once if you're going to clamp them for longer periods.

I've owned an American Straight Needle. I purchased mine from the original owner straight out of his shoe shop when he retired for around $500 about 22 years ago. It was like brand new and sewed perfectly. I agree with everything said above: Needle and awl does indeed make a beautiful stitch. The only way you should even entertain this notion is if you have someone experienced that can work on the machine and help you and you are willing to pay them what it takes when you have problems. I wouldn't want to be looking for parts today. Make sure you completely understand how that small throat area will, or will not, affect the work you intend to do. If I wanted another I would hold out for, as Wiz said, a Campbell-Randall or Landis 3/16.

My Pro 2000 is actually a Juki. Mine still has the Juki badges. I believe the older ones of this age were all based on Japanese machines. I would never trade mine for any of the new China machines. I also have a lighter duty Cowboy and even though I haven't had any problems with it...... I can just tell a difference. When you are putting money and hours into leather you want a quality stitch and a smooth running machine. I'd much rather have this older machine that someone has time tested and proven with amazing work to back it up than a newer one straight off the boat that someone's just ran a few strips through before they shipped it on to you.

I purchased a Cowboy 341 from Bob Kovar a couple of years ago. I drove up to try it out in person and bought it on the spot. I also have a 31-15 with a roller foot that I use for thin stuff...decorative stitching with <69 thread. My big guy...a Juki 441 with Efka Vario DC handles anything too thick for the CB341 and/or thread 277 and up. I bought the CB341 to fit in the middle. It has become my favorite machine of all time (I haven't had as many as some on this site....but I've had more than a few..hee hee). The only mod I have made (after some frustration) was to remove the cork brake on the servo motor. As you can see in the video link below, I am easily able to sew thru two layers of bridle leather with 207 top AND bottom. I actually run 207 both top and bottom most of the time in this machine. I don't know if that is a testament to Bob's amazing setup or what, but it has never been a problem for me. This is why trying a specific machine in person or getting a sample sewn off the machine you are looking at is important. The exact machine and setup can matter. This is a pretty old thread with some recent replies so I hated to add more to it but I felt it might be helpful to someone researching a version of this machine. https://youtu.be/UYUoVMZqAKw CB-341 with 207 thread top and bottom.

You should give Landwerlen Leather Co. In Indianapolis a call. They sell to shoe repair shops all over the US. Anyone can walk in off the street and buy and their prices are good. They have a basement full of soles and sole material. I have purchased sheets of Vibram from them myself. Great guys. If you have a chance to visit in person I highly recommend it. This is a family business that has been here for over 100 years. stepping through their doorway is like stepping back in time. I go as often as I can, as places like these are an endangered species and one day there will be no more.

I know I'm a little late to the conversation but I thought you might want the input. I was in the same market as you about a year ago. I have a Ferdco Pro 2000 that also still has the Juki 441 badges. I have also owned a few Singers, some big ASN shoe machines, and a very nice flatbed walking foot Durkopp Adler in the past (and stupidly sold it). I needed another mid range machine to fit between my 441 and my 31-15 and knew I didn't want to limit myself to a flat bed machine. The cost of a Juki was more than I wanted to spend. I preferred the 341 to the 2700. I also looked at the Techsew, but the shipping made the cost a bit more for me and I really wanted to test the machine in person first. So instead of ordering online, I made the trip to see Cowboy Bob at Toledo and let him demo the CB-341 and then I spend a little time on it myself. I was very happy with it and took it home. It's actually become my favorite machine. Absolutely love it.

Thanks all for the replies! I'm going to have to process through this info. Whiz - you are lucky to live close to Bob's! When I was there buying my 341 my husband was with me and he's the kind of guy who wants to walk in, buy, and head home. However, my eyes were like a kid in a candy shop. I would have loved to have spent the day looking over all the different machines in that room! kgg - I will consider the binding as an option and I very much appreciate your insight into working with this material.

Hey guys! I'm developing a new horse accessory that requires me to put a professional edge on Cordura alone, as well as a few layers of Cordura plus 100% wool on a fabric backing. (Which btw, if anyone knows a good supplier for this I would appreciate it if you could pass me the info!). Although I have a Juki 441, a Cowboy 341, and a Singer 31-15, I've never done any sewing where you need a finished edge. Let alone a finished edge through thicker material. I know it's not strictly leather, but I've always been able to trust the knowledge on this forum! What do you suggest I need? What is the difference between a serger and an overlock machine? Are they the same? And, if this is what I need, would I be able to get away with an older heavy home machine or should I look for an older industrial. I'm not looking to invest much until I know how much of this I'm going to do. Here's a pic of the wool fleece I'm working with and one of a similar item with the edges I'm looking for. Thanks much!!!

Just curious what leather is used for the white padding/lining on English dressage bridles?

This is the first industrial machine I have had that has this. Every other I've had has been clutch as I've just gotten back in to this and the cheap servos weren't an option back then. So, as some have eluded, it seems foreign to me and I actually feel like I have less control. LOL. I have my home machine set to stop needle down (but perfect stitch placement isn't necessary there) so I set this the same but I really feel like I have to really think about things when I am turning or coming to a corner. I just thought if it was an option to disable I could see if it felt better to me without. I don't need automation of any type so although I know this is a quality motor/controller, I'm just wondering if I wouldn't feel better with a decent servo coupled with a speed reducer.

Uwe - forgot to mention control box is AB60A. Thanks Eric....do you think it is impossible to use this without the EPS?

Hey all. I've been toying with the idea of trying my Ferdco Pro 2000 with Efka 1600 Vario DC without the EPS. Is it as simple as temporarily unplugging the sensor from the controller or will I have to do some crazy re-calibrating if I want to plug it back in? :-) ~Thanks!

Thanks billybopp! Greatly appreciated!

My son has asked me to make something for him and he wants colors but vintage looking, worn. I told him to find me an example of the look he wants and he sent me this photo he found. I have never done colors like this. Always oil based stains in browns. Is this look done with stain or acrylics? And what steps do I take to get the worn look? Thanks for the help....I'm stepping of into a new dimension!