AndyNext

Does anyone know if this book is still available anywhere, perhaps as a download? I can't find it in the Tandy LeathercraftLibrary where most of the other Stohlman books are still available, and its not appearing on any searches of the online bookshops. Thanks.

Royal Mail will hold your parcel, then card you with a bill ! This is usually 20%VAT plus their admin flat fee which I think is £8 or £10. The admin fee is a killer if it is only a low cost item. A couple of items I've ordered from GoodsJapan have been delivered directly without any charge, but most have required VAT+admin payment.

I bought my Gum Trag from Artisan Leather. It definitely has something added to it to stop it becoming a growth medium for your local yeasts and other micro-organisms! It has a distinctive smell which triggers ancient memories of school corridors after the cleaners had been in!! So if you want to mix your own Gum Trag, I would suggest adding a drop or two of Dettol, or similar disinfectant. And my experiences with Le Prevo online ordering have been similar to FredK. They are not as slick as newer websites, but they only ask for the money once they've checked the stock and are ready to ship. If something isn't in, they've called to discuss alternatives.

A deadblow hammer for punches, stitching chisels. A Tandy rawhide mallet for tooling. A secondhand cobblers hammer off Ebay for hammering stitching, glued leather etc. And recently, after watching an Ian Atkinson video, I've started using a ballpein hammer when rounding off copper rivet heads after trimming.

If you want a reliable tote pattern with accompanying video, then Ian Atkinson has a good one. His videos are excellent at explaining the processes as well as the actual making. https://www.etsy.com/listing/264115189/build-along-leather-pattern-6-turned As others have said, always prototype a new design before cutting into expensive leather. I use cheap split. It will help you understand how the pattern works and therefore how you can then make your own changes to the design, sizing etc.

Rockoboy. The leather handles are fine for me when carrying it, the angle of the photo may be giving a false impression. They are also just long enough to put an arm through and hoist the bag onto your shoulder if the shoulder strap wasn't attached. I did add a paracord core to the handles, which makes them stiffer and stand up more. They are the length from the pattern. With hindsight, I should attached them with D rings rather than the suggested rectangular loops.

After messing around with a few different design ideas, I settled on Tony See's pattern (DieselpunkRo on Etsy) for a large Weekender bag. I decided using a well-tested pattern reduced the risk of major errors especially when the project needed a lot of nice leather!! The leather is Stafford Tan shoulder from AA Crack, about 2.2mm, which happened to be in their sale clearance; and I used 1mm Havana Tiger thread. I decided to make a cotton webbing shoulder strap rather than leather as I find them more comfortable and less likely to slip. Plus making a leather one would have meant buying another piece of leather!

Thanks for the pics, very useful

Thanks, I might take you up on that offer when the project goes 'live', i.e. before Christmas 2019, if I hit any issues!!! Do you have any more pics of your bags?

Those cartridge case bags are lovely. My wife has submitted a 'present request' for me to make her a handbag in a similar style to those, but I've yet to work out a pattern.

It is just the camera angle, they are both the same size - its the small dopp kit pattern. This was the first time I've used one of Tony's patterns and punched the holes, I usually use stitching irons. I used a 1.5mm punch and 1mm tiger thread. Aside from the actual punching, I found the major downside of punched holes vs awl or stitching irons is that the leather doesn't grip the thread after each stitch. You therefore need to work harder to maintain tension in the stitch runs e.g. by occasional extra casts in the saddle stitch to lock it.

I've just finished two dopp kits as birthday presents for our sons-in-law. I used a Tony See pattern with added personalised elements decorating both sides. The leather is navy Old English Bridle from Metropolitan (often available at a reduced price) and is about 2mm. The light tan was left over from a previous tote bags project. Both bags are partially lined lined using cotton fabrics from my wife's quilting stash! My original plan was to use the regular dopp kit design involving sewing the bag inside out, boxing corners etc. However the leather proved too stiff and its glossy finish started to crack in the folds when the bag was turned back the right way. Back to the drawing board and my hunt for an alternative design led me to this one on Tony's Etsy shop - DieselpunkRo.

Very nice !!! I'd be interested to know what weight of leather, thread, needle size etc you used to get that crisp, precise look.

Thanks, nice bag

I am planning to make a duffle/weekender bag from veg tan shoulder, as I'd like to dye and finish the leather myself. The design I'm adapting is a turned bag and so has boxed corners. What weight of veg tan shoulder leather is it feasible to use in a turned bag? I would like to use about 2-2.5mm/5-6oz but I'm unsure whether it will be too stiff to create the boxed corners. What is everyone's experience? I've previously done boxed corners on tote bags and a dopp kit, but these were all constructed using a softee finished veg tan. All thoughts and advice gratefully received

I use end cutters rather than side cutters and they will let you trim rivets much closer. However you do need to leave enough to dome!!!

Box? Boxes!! The case was built for a 1930's Hohner Erika which has been brought back to life, overhauled and retuned. However it also fits my main band box which is a Giustozzi. Andy

Thanks Bob I play English traditional folk music in a ceilidh band and for a local morris team. I have occasionally thought about making button box straps, but as I currently use nice, comfortable Italian padded straps, it probably will just stay a thought! There are plenty of button box players on your side of the Atlantic, which would reduce the commute if you did decide to start making them! Cheers, Andy

Hi TomWisc, sorry only just noticed your comment. All handles were stitched through as well as riveted; it just doesn't show in the picture. Definitely overkill for strength but gives it a nice look with the contrasting thread. I looked at quite a few tote bags online before coming up with the simple closure . As it is held on by a snap at the back, it can be removed if found superfluous and easily replaced. The handles were made from bridle leather strips bought on Etsy. The second tote I made had dark brown rather than navy straps.

Thanks Riem. The first case had a leather strap with shoulder pad, however I didn't try lining the pad to stop it slipping. I might go back and give it a go when I have something suitable.

Keep an eye on eBay, old cobbler's hammer are advertised quite regularly at much better prices than new ones.

I've just completed a case for my larger button accordion (aka melodeon in UK). My design was developed using construction ideas from one of Ian Atkinson's messenger bag patterns and is made with Sedgwick Russet Shoulder from Abbey England. This was my first attempt at a three piece gusset and I'm very pleased with the result - Ian's video was very helpful for this. Originally I had planned to dye the leather a darker, but decided to keep it 'natural' and have only applied Carnauba Cream. It will get a good coating of Aussie Conditioner before it goes into use. Reverse was sealed with TanKote. The strap is made from heavy duty cotton webbing as I found the leather strap on a smaller case I made last year slipped too easily off the shoulder.

I use Abbey England for most supplies. They are really friendly and helpful, and happy to deal with 'hobbyists' as well as trade customers. If it is convenient to you (20 mins drive for me), they have a trade counter and welcome visitors - but beware you will undoubtedly buy more than you intended!! Le Prevo are also good value although it helps if you know what you are looking for as their website/catalogue is a bit terse! Leather - I've bought finished veg tan shoulder from both AA Crack and Metropolitan. Again both are friendly & helpful if you pick up the phone, plus you need to contact AA Crack for pricing as it is not on their site, even if you register with them. And currently Abbey England have a special offer on Sedgwick Russet shoulders. Varying sizes (est. 8-10sq ft) and thicknesses (1.5mm to 3.5mm+) - £40+vat each. I've just bought some and they are nicely finished with few flaws. Abbey don't usually stock them and not sure whether they'll have more at this price after this lot have been sold. And Tandy? - I initially bought membership when starting out on this hobby but find now I can buy better/cheaper elsewhere if I shop around. Membership will not be renewed.

Completed my first dopp kit, following the basic design and process posted some time ago in https://imgur.com/gallery/NPZcW I used some left over leather from making the two tote bags recently (pic posted a while ago) and it is lined with a dark cotton printed fabric. I'll probably try an un-lined one next, as I'm not sure I like the way the lining ended up creased and crumpled once it was turned right side out. I also realised during sewing up that cutting 'squares' out to make the boxed corners doesn't quite work. They need to be rectangles to compensate for the central seam, then hopefully the edges will line up nicely when boxing!

A lot of the products they sell come from Ivan in Taiwan. (www.ivan.tw). It looks to be the Taiwanese equivalent of Tandy,. Having bought a number of items of h/w and some leather strip from them, I've found Artisan is very helpful and responsive, and their pricing is competitive.