mdmorgan

Hi all, I just thought I would share this holster and belt I just finished. Let me know what you think!

I also use the vinegaroon as the moisture for moulding.

It's not too bad, the tool will get hot enough to do several in 30 seconds and I have the torch handy for thread burning anyway. I will try the pliers though, it sounds faster. Thanks.

Ayn one know of a scource of black patent leather? or a way I can do this finish myself?

Tired of setting snaps with a hammer, and unable to but a snap press, I thought of something. I chucked my snap setting tool in my drill press, and that worked better, but then I heated the tool with a torch, not red hot or anything, just hot enough to make brass soft. Oh man, it set the snaps as well as anything I have ever seen, and it didn't matter how much post was sticking through the leather, it just rolled right over! When the snap cools off, the metal contracts and makes the tightest snap fit I have ever seen. I just thought I would share my crazy idea with you.

I agree, I use 6/7 for almost everything. Some might think it is a bit light for a pancake, but I have never had a problem with it. I just bought a side of 7/8 Herman Oak and I think it is too thick, it makes a nice holster, but I can't get the detail I want. I did a shoulder rig for a 1911 and I couldn't get the forward cocking lines to show. Not a big deal but something I like to see. I find the dull end of my free hand groover is great for boning. I also use a butter knife and a table spoon, but hey whatever works right?!

Is that a basketweave pocket holster?! Ha! I love it!

I would make him buy a belt!

Yeah that is how I do it. I think maybe your guy has an undersized belt. By the way your work looks great.

I go 1 5/8 for a 1 1/2 belt. I also make the slot as wide as the belt is thick, plus a little.

Thanks guys, I will look into that. I have that book somewhere.

I need to make a mag pouch that is flat on the back for a duty rig. Any tips on how to keep the back flat when I mould it?

Yes, if you mould a sweat shield with a saftey-off blue gun, it can cause the saftey to switch off when holstering the weapon.

I almost always use the real gun. I have used my Kimber to mould maybe 50 holsters. I have never used plastic rap and I have never had a problem. if the leather is cased as it should be, you wont get the gun very wet, and I just strip, clean and oil the weapon when I am finished. Never had a problem. Be careful with the blue guns, if it dosen't say "cocked and locked" it isn't!

I use 7/8 sometimes 6/7.

Looks goot, just a little too long though. I have been there!

Well it would have been great, but it was three different holsters. The pancake shown was the only "easy" one!

I have a bunch of co-workers that have them, I have made holsters for 3 of them. Kind of an odd little gun to pattern.

I have yet to post any of my work and figured it was high time. A pancake for a 9x18 and an inside the waistband for an xd40.

IWB for a four inch S&W 500. I said I would do it, but not for my normal IWB price. He didn't want to pay the difference so I didn't make it. It's too bad though, it would have been fun.

I am wanting to get in to CC belts, and I was wondering what types of tools some of you use to skive the buckle ends.

Wow.

Thanks guys. I need it to skive the ends of belts, and to split straps to make liners and what not.

I need a small skiving machine / splitter. Any one have advise on one? I know the osborne 86 would be good, but yikes that is alot of cash. Thanks for any ideas!

I was wondering if anyone has purchased the craftsman sides form Springfield leather. I know there will be flaws, but are they mostly O.K.? Will I be able to get good long straps out of it, or is it bad enough that it is best for small items? Would I be safer buying the $7.95 AB sides? Thanks for any thoughts you may have.