woolfe

Can anyone confirm that a Glock 37 mag carrier can be molded with a Glock 19 mag?

The Sig is more square then the Colt this makes the Colt a little smaller. In my opinion the Colt will fit to loose in a holster molded around a Sig. I must say It's a pretty close fit I'm sure some people have done it.

I had the same question not to long ago. I found this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25035&st=0&p=158535&hl=+mag%20+pouch%20+glock%20+mold&fromsearch=1entry158535 "If your pattern is not too tall, you can make the same mag holder for the models 17, 17L, 19, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27, 31, 32, 32, 34, and 35 (and I believe the 37, 38, and 39 as well) off of one dummy mag. Another dummy will be necessary for models 20,21, 21SF, 29, 30, and 30SF. The model 36 will require a dummy mag all its own."

I don't necessarily see a need for it either, but I do see a market. Since people are buying them and using them there's got to be a reason.

If you decide to buy a sheet and don't think you'll use all of it. I'd buy some from you.

I know people use KYDEX: http://www.comp-tac.com/product_info.php?products_id=43&osCsid=1a6nes3duihn22ar1jmnunpg01 http://www.tds-us.com/catalog.php/tds/pd2102417 I just don't know what thickness to use. I've looked into doing this myself and I was debating on trying out .06 KYDEX. The only places I could find it in pieces long enough sold it by the sheet. I still want to give it a shot and next time I make myself a belt I am going to try it. Anyone try using KYDEX before? If so, what thickness would you recommend?

I dip dye and immediately wipe off the excess with a rag. If need be I will touch up with an air brush, although it usually comes out nice enough I don't have to. I usually cut out items being dyed black prior to dying and brown or tan items after dying. Most of the time I will cut out the brown leathers while they are still damp, this makes it really easy to cut them out. I work with Fiebing black, USMC black, tan, light brown, and Cordovan. 6/7 oz Herman Oak leather. Leather from different places will be different when it comes to how hard it is to cut it will vary slightly even from hide to hide from the same tannery. I tried Wicket and Craig once and I found it to be harder to cut then Herman Oak.

I dip in 50/50 resolene/water then spray off with an air compressor. I'm just wondering how the mop and glow works. When I was in the military we would use it on our boots, just the heal and toe, to add a quick shine and protect the thick coat of shoe polish. It would end up cracking after awhile. Just wondering if you are having any trouble with it cracking or does cutting it with water some how make it more resilient to cracking?

Here is thread from another site with some info on the topic. From what I can tell as long as the slide is not covered you are not hiding the fact that its a gun and its legal. I don't make this style myself just for the fact that it looks like a gray area and I don't want to be involved. http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1205328009/6

I've been doing this part time for almost 2 years now. I'm a full time student studying Orthotics and Prosthetics, graduating in May! Its hard to say how many I make a year since my business has done nothing but grow since I started out selling holsters on Ebay. Now I rarely use Ebay all of my orders go through my Website. I don't advertise for fear that I would not be able to keep up with the demand. The amount of orders I get now can sometimes be overwhelming while taking 16 credit hours or more, 17 credit hours this semester. In my opinion the commercial holsters are great, but you cannot beat a custom made rig. Another thing to point out is the level of customer service that goes along with dealing with a small business versus a big company. People tell me all the time they would rather deal with a small maker. This way they get to talk to the person that's going to be making the product from start to finish. There is no passing the buck and they know you are going to take care of them if there is a problem. But, yes there definably is a market out there!

Yes and No... The dust cover is longer on the full sized 1911.

Your idea is pretty much dead on, except I put a piece of denim on the dowl instead of sand paper. Here are the results of my method.

Interesting! Looks like a pretty cool idea. I've toyed with the idea of making molds myself. I found this webstie while researching http://www.smooth-on.com/media.php They have tutorial videos and sell resins and such.

I buy mine in bulk from http://www.mcmaster.com/# Let me know what you find.

Hi, from Tarpon Springs. I use 6-32 T-nuts and 6-32 screws. The screws fit inside the head of the snaps. You can either sandwich the T-nut between the two pieces of leather or just punch a hole through both pieces and leave it exposed on the back of the holster. The T-nuts and screws are sold at Homedepot, you'll need to trim the little barbs off the T-nuts.

Thank you!

Hi all, I got an order for a mag carrier for a 9mm Kimber pro carry II. I'm wondering if the mag dimensions are the same as a 1911 mag for 45 acp. I know Colt new agent 9mm mags where roughly the same as 45 acp mags. Anyone know about the kimber? Thanks a bunch!

I mix water and resolene 50/50 in a bucket then dunk the holster and spray the excess off with an air compressor. Easy fast and a great finish.

Apparently they are sold at auto part stores.. Here is a couple links with some info on this subject. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23232 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24719

Thanks! Yes, I dip dye them. Then I use an air brush, if needed, to even it out. I use Fiebiengs leather dye. The colors shown here are Lt Brown, Cordovan, and USMC black.

Thanks!

I just finished redoing my IWB holster pics for my website. I took someones advice on this site and changed my design around slightly by sandwiching the t-nuts between the leather. I'm very very happy with the results. Thanks! Feel free to let me know of anything I may be able to improve on.

Its easy to make kydex clips. someone already pointed out all you need is a heat gun. I found the big paint sticks from Lowes or Homedepot work good for making jigs to mold around. Tool wise all you really need is a dremel tool. I like to use a table saw to cut my kydex down into strips. Then a belt sander to round the corners and bevel the edges. Then I use a wooden dowel with denim glued on it to clean and polish the edges, kinda like a burnishing dowel.

Hello, The only concern i have is it looks like the trim line touches the mag release. I'm not sure if its the angle of the photo or not. Couple more things but they are just what I prefer you may not. I like to have a little more leather curl over the end of the barrel and the sweat/shirt guard extend higher. Looks good keep it up!

I finish mine after wet molding I let them dry over night, wax my edges then apply my finish. I dunk them in a 50/50 resolene/water mix count to 10 pull them out. Then lightly blow off the excess with an air compressor. Then they sit for 3 full days before I assemble them. I get great results and its quick and easy. The only down side is waiting 3 days for it to fully cure.