Frank

Thanks very much. I'm hoping someday I'll be better!!

Tor, Bianchi used a 50/50 mixture of beeswax and paraffin. I use that as well, for my second burnishing. I get my paraffin at the local grocery store or super market as it is the same as the canning wax. I believe it is the "Ball" brand canning wax but I could be wrong on the name. If you have home canning supplies where you are located, then you should be able to get the wax.

Thanks again. I never know what I am going to do when it comes to tooling the holster. I just start going and see where I end up. It's nice to do some different stuff once in a while. I just grab a handful from the tool block and set them in a caddy. I pick up whatever looks like it will work at the time.

That is all drum-dyed skirting leather from Wickett & Craig. I buy 8-10 ounce and 10-12 ounce sides. As long as they are not split, they have the nice dyed flesh side.

Yes, I do realize it was an old thread but someone posted just prior to me posting otherwise I wouldn't have said anything. As far as the John Bianchi video, they are not on YouTube that I know of. The wheel itself was a mandril attached to the motor and the 100% wool felt rounds were cut out via a punch, packed together, and bolted on the mandril.

Thanks very much. I hand stitch all of my holsters except for pancake holsters and I machine stitch all of my belts. Call it odd but I get a certain amount of satisfaction from hand stitching. Not to mention, it keeps me in practice and breaks up the monotony.

I have made several holsters and mag pouches with horse and they all turned out great thanks to Lobo. He sent me a detailed list of the best How-To's when it came to working with it. I've never been disappointed with it. I do not use it a lot but always keep some on hand. There is a Thad Rybka style holster for a 1911 that turns out great when using the stuff.

Thank you Sir.

The first time I saw the "fantastic edge burnisher" was actually in the John Bianchi holster videos. I think it started with him and then was copied as John showed also how to make the felt wheels.

Thanks for all of the compliments. I still have a ways to go before I consider myself to be a great holster maker. Who knows, maybe I never will. But, I keep trying!

Every time I get an order for anything in black, I start to cringe and get the cold sweats. I have no idea why people would ruin a good project with that color!

Paul, Once I oil (mixture of neatsfoot and U-82 Saddlers oil), I use Bag Kote as a finish and the bag kote really helps to darken the leather. Tan kote will cause it to be a lighter shade of brown than bag kote. Frank

Thanks very much. Yes, that is the W/C brown skirting leather.

Thanks very much. It seems that Slim Jim styles were very popular this go round. Frank

Thanks Rory. I modeled those after the old time half flap holsters. They were a transition holster between the military flap holsters and the Slim Jim style holsters. Frank

Josh, You SHOULD be able to at least use a small stop or seeder while the cantle back is covered. Just be careful. I have made the same mistake once or twice before, usually with a holster that is finished. Last time I stuck the tip of a small anvil in the mouth of the holster just to get a decent impression. You are right on the money....holsters go a lot quicker once you have done a few saddles. Frank

Thanks Josh, I appreciate it very much.

Just got all of these finished up after being off line for 2 weeks. I had 28 pages to read once I got on. I'm definitely glad my customers wont let me rest. Just finishing up 5 butt stock covers too. Frank

Welcome Mike. Milwaukee area here. Frank

Thanks everyone. I will be posting more photos today after I catch up on 28 pages since my last login

I use W/C drum dyed leathers exclusively, along with their Oak. Here is a photo of one of my holsters finished with Bag Kote. Using different top finishes, you can either lighten or darken the finished product. It seems that Tan kote will give you a light lighter color than what I have shown here. Frank

Nice job on the rig. Hopefully the belt can hold that monster in place! Any good caliber really should start with a number 4.

Great looking rig. You can definitely see the Lobo influence. I really like the horsehide for concealed carry leather.

Josh, Great looking saddle for #3. I need to get to work on #4 some day! The only thing I have to comment on is the tooling on the back of the cantle, on the curve; You might want to use a stop or some other tool where you ended your cuts. It leaves them wide open and they really look like they are unfinished. Other than that, you're doing a fine job. Frank

Another one of my theories behind selling a "second" especially when it comes to gun leather is that more than likely after the first day of use, you'd never be able to tell it was a "second." I'm tough on my own gun leather. After using it the first day, I guarantee it already has scratches and visible wear. You can't honestly tell me that someone would think you work is crap after someone else wore in the woods, on horseback, in shoots, etc. These kinds of things always happen to gun leather. If someone bought the holster you made from someone else, it is used and they'd more than likely never even know. Here is a photo of an HH Heiser Holster, The skirt is attached by a rivet, it's not actually a 1 piece holster. This is an original holster that was not repaired. Was this a second? Quite possibly. Did they want to save on leather by using the scraps for the skirts? Also a good possibility. Either way, most of us would consider that a "second", but Heiser sold it like that. I have seen several of these holsters, just like this one. The other thing is that each person has their own threshold of what constitutes a "second." Would what I consider a second, in fact be top quality for someone else? Definitely and vice versa.