Frank

As promised, here are the photos of the finished model 94 take-down case. This was built to the customer's specs (he wanted it flexible and easy to pack and store) but the next one I make will be in Veg Tan, not suede. Suede has a tendency to move around and stretch a little too much for my liking but it turned out relatively well. It's a two piece pouch, one for the barrel and the other for the stock and receiver. They are sewn and riveted to each other at the top so you can flip one case up to get to the bottom case. I also added an accessory pouch on the back side. It would have looked a lot better in veg tan I think and then I wouldn't have had to to a rolled edge border to cover up the seam. Frank

Outstanding Josh. One of the nicest 1911 rigs I've seen in a while.

Yes, they are pretty close. I had a 1911 mag here and a friend asked for mag holders for his P220. I never heard a bad word from him.

Nice work. Over near Miller Park myself.

Thanks Rory. I cut all of the belt tips like that by hand. I have never seen a punch with a long taper like that. Frank

Thanks everyone. That border is just really nice, clean, and simple. I do like it quite a bit. I start on the case this week and should have it finished this week as well and will definitely post some photos.

Thanks again. I just wish one of these days, someone would order a matching floral belt to go with the holsters. They go all out on the holsters, but never the belts for some reason or another.

Thanks Guys. As soon as the case gets finished, I will be sure to post photos. The guy sent me the old canvas case for a pattern and it's a pretty simple design and should look great in leather. Frank

Been off here for a while again. Was down in Kentucky for a show. When I returned, I had these orders waiting to be started. Two single rigs and a double rig. Now I'm working on a Winchester model 94 take-down case. That should be an interesting one to do. Frank

Thanks again. The half-flaps seem to be very popular this year.

Very cool job on that

I have one suggestion that really has nothing to do with the saddle. An old time saddle maker gave me some food for thought on this one. The Keeper buckle on your flank cinch or small Dees for those who use them instead, should be on both sides of the flank cinch. That way, if you have a tear out while riding, you can turn the flank cinch around and use the buckle or Dee on the other side and it will keep you in the game. Frank

Another good one Josh

Extremely well done Josh

They are called tensioners

Thanks very much. I'm a big proponent of simplicity....probably because I'm a simply guy...lol

Bill, I remember a leather worker out of Alaska that used to make something similar but they have gone out of business. I do not know who currently makes it. There are a couple of guys here on the forum that have made something like that.

Thanks guys. As far as my edges go, I learned from and old saddle maker and then adapted a few other steps to the process. It is on the line of Bobby Park's tutorial with a couple different steps in there. Frank

Thanks guys, I'm sure he'd appreciate the comments. As far as him making it to the future, I only have about 2-3 true-to-the-bone friends and he's one of them.

I second denatured alcohol. Put a liberal amount on a rag in a well ventilated area and wipe the finish off. It comes off real slimey and goobery like but just switch to a clean spot on the rag.

That's a big difference in the depth and smoothness. Good job on that.

My best friend dabbles in leather work and made me this plaque for Christmas. He used and engraver for all of the work. I finally got around to aging some old boards yesterday and putting it on the frame. What better gift could you ask for?? I'll get around to hanging it up this weekend.

Thanks Guys. I really am a fan of the simple lines in the western style holsters but it's always nice to do something over the top once in a while too. Getting ready for a show next week (I only do one a year) and have 4 orders waiting for me when I get back. You can tell that spring shooting season is here!

Tor, You are correct as far as the pure beeswax. I bought an aluminum "candle Making" pitcher. I slowly melted equal parts (by weight) of beeswax and paraffin on the stove top. I stirred it well and poured it into plastic candy form trays after it cools for 10-15 minutes. It will stay at liquid form for quite some time. No need to rush this process. After they cooled and solidified, I popped them out of the molds, wrapped them in wax paper and stored them in a cardboard box. I just pull one out when I need it but I think I have enough right now to last me a lifetime. Just be extra careful to heat the wax slowly on very low heat as it is flammable.

Very nice looking...both of them.