Frank

Thanks for all of the compliments. Sorry I didn't get back sooner. I have been swamped since recovering from that nasty flu. First time in years that I have had the flu. I have been getting ready for a show in March plus doing my regular orders. I'll have some new stuff posted next week. As far as the spring clips, you can buy them for $15.00 a piece at River Junction Trade Co. They are the only ones I know of that carry them....after doing extensive research. At the moment, I am having a friend attempting to make some out of spring steel. If they are cost effective, I should be able to sell them for quite a bit less than what River Junction offers them and they will have nicer edges. I will keep you all posted on that endeavor. The pattern itself is a 3 piece pattern (minus toe plug and barrel keeper). A front panel, a back panel and the shoulder attachment is a partial panel that is skived down and sewn in between the front and back panel. At this time, I am not offering up the pattern since I have not fully "perfected" it. Frank

Wow, looks like you've been as busy lately as I have. Great work for just starting out.

Thanks everyone for the compliments. Most of these original holsters were destroyed over the years. The ones that do exist are in private collections or museums. I just found an original one for sale tonight. I thought that $275.00 was pretty fair, all things considered. Frank

As par for the course, I have been off the grid again for a while. The flu took me down for a couple of weeks. A friend of mine has been after me to build him a spring clip style shoulder holster for a single action. This is my first one so now I know what changes I need to make. I still think it turned out fairly well for the first attempt. Those spring clips are a bugger to hand stitch! Frank

Diluted gun bluing does the trick as well and very quickly I might add. I dilute it with alcohol or use the gun bluing paste applied with a Q-tip

Thanks for mentioning that one. I saw someone use that border a few years ago and I use it every once in a while myself. Not new at all, just been a while since someone has brought it up.

I was just visiting Springfield Leather about a month ago. I picked up some chap leather for a pair of shotguns that I just finished. They had one that I really liked (Old Town??) but it was way too heavy for me to use on the shotguns. You might want to give them a shot. Frank

I think you have a winner there....very nice

Thanks Jon. I hope all is well on your end.

I put Bag Kote on all parts, buff out and let dry for 10-15 minutes. After that I use a Tuff Kote from Weaver and do the same.

Thanks much, I appreciate it. I think I have logged in maybe 5 times in the last 5 months. Hopefully that will all change soon. After a month of not being on here, there is a lot to catch up on.

Hey All, I haven't been on here much at all. I've had a lot of family stuff come up in the past 5 months, along with getting ready for a Spring show. I've been busy in and out of the shop with little time to post or even comment. Usually when I log on, I have 25-30 pages to read. Here is a new rig that I made and lightly antiqued. The other is a pair of 1880's style shotgun chaps (my first pair ever) that I just finished up. I picked a large scarred up hide from Springfield specifically for these chaps. Frank

There are 5-6 or more members on here in the Wisconsin area that work with holsters. I am in Milwaukee, there's one in the Sparta area, one in the Madison area, and a couple more up north. I think you can hit one or the other without driving 8-9 hours. Frank

Well, if you get down this way and have extra time, feel free to let me know and you are more than welcome to stop by. If you private message me, I'll give you my phone number to make it a bit easier. Frank

It's great to see more and more Wisconsin people on here. Definitely a big welcome to you. Down in Milwaukee here.

Floyd, First of all, welcome to the forum and stay safe. I've been where you are at and I know how warm it can get. Generally speaking, you will need to add a top coat finish to the leather. I have never used Eco-Flo so I do not know what is best to use on that. I'm sure Tandy has their own top coat to be used with the Eco-Flo products. Be sure to buff the dyed leather vigorously after it has dried but before adding a top coat. This will get any of the residual dye off the surface. I personally use Fiebings oil dyes and it depends on what I am working on as to what finish I use. I use either Fiebings Bag Kote, Acrylic Resolene, Tan Kote, or Leather Balm with Atom Wax. No matter what you use, with that much heat and sweat, you will always have some rub off. Though not as bad as what you are experiencing currently without a top coat. Frank

Welcome...there are a few of us here in WI. I'm over in Milwaukee. Bluesman (Jon) makes it here every once in a while. I'm finally back on here after a 2 month hiatus. Frank

Hey All, I had a gentleman contact me about getting a heavy duty shoulder holster made for a Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan. Most of what I do is single action and I do not have a mold for this one. Anyone interested, PM me and I will give you his contact info. Thanks in advance. Frank

Most of the mounted holsters that I have seen are very heavy....12-14 ounce and have a suede or rough out lining. I see no sense in using metal to line the holsters when they are this heavy. I have seen rawhide used in between layers though. Just an option if they keep on you about it. I think Elton Joorsity on here has built a rig or two for his wife. You might want to talk with him. Frank

I have 2 machines and working on getting my 3rd. The reason behind 3 machines......I'm lazy in a certain respect. One will be used for heavy leathers, one for lighter leathers and the other for canvas. I really hate adjusting tensions. It can take a lot of time away from the project. As Bob said, you need as many as you need. In my case, it's 3 since my disdain for adjusting tensions requires me to spend more money on machines!! There is also another reason and that is in case one happens to break or have problems, I do have one to fall back on if need be. Frank

The other thing you might want to do that was not explained is to cut 2 toe plugs and glue them flesh to flesh. This adds a lot of beefiness to the plug and is a lot easier to work with in my opinion. Frank

I second Bruce on that!

I would use a round needle as the diamond will have the tendency to cut the canvas, causing it to fray and unravel. Frank

I would taper the 2" belts to a standard 1.5" at both ends and use regular buckles if it is feasible. Frank

Denix of Spain makes a lot of cast replicas for the old west style guns. Collectors Armoury here in the U.S. carries them. If you have a business and are able to purchase wholesale, they are relatively cheap and work well for simple molding and fitting. I just cover them with plastic cling wrap. Frank