esantoro

The next pictures of the second application, annotated with "II", were taken after about 45 minutes:

The first application of dressing was followed by a second application. This round of pictures is better annotated than the first. Again, dressing was wiped on with no buffing.The following pictures were taken immediately after second application was done: The pictures that follow are annotated with "I" to indicate that they were taken after about twenty-five minutes:

The following pictures were taken after 30 minutes and after the water bead had been wiped away to reveal the presence or lack of a water spot:

The following pictures show how well each respective dressing held up after 20 minutes, then after 30 minutes:

Here's a bit more scientific waterproofing test. Waterproofing conditioners involved: A Aussie Wax S Sno-Seal O Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP P Pecard Leather dressing Results: 1st..... Aussie Wax 2nd.... Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP 3rd..... Sno-Seal 4th..... Pecard The following pictures show how well a water droplet beads immediately on leather with one application of the respective dressing. Dressing was wiped on with no buffing. Use the above letters for reference. The water droplet is in the upper-left corner of the picture:

Came home from the hardware store today with a rasp, a chisel, and course sandpaper. My wood is coming on Monday, and I have never anticipated getting sticks so much. Like a three-year-old child, give me a slab of steel, some sticks, and a heavy something to bang on everything with and I'm happy. Ed

Hi Bob, Could you post pictures here of your attachments for the 441? Ed

Beautiful bag, Keith. Just now visited your website. Fantastic work. How does one go about ordering the Chief Executive package? Ed

Hi Steve, Is it possible to buy this 1 mm leather binding tape or do you have to skive down to that thickness yourself? Perhaps the thinner tape would be easier to control while feeding the machine. Ed

Thanks, Steve. I just now finished binding on a bag panel. This time I used a bone folder to crease the skived binding leather (1.3 mm thick), which I glued into place. I use 1.25" binding leather to give me room to set and stitch. Ed

Yes. I use the HT-100 with the changeable dies. I have a rollover die and a flathead die. ed

I had been using the rollover die from Ohio Travel Bags for setting/rolling over tubular rivets. I just got a rollover die from Hanson Rivet and like very much how it rolls the end of the tubular rivet over the washer. Ed

I've also been trying to decide between making 1.25" and 1.5" belts. Nearly all of the 1.5" buckles I have seem larger than I want and the 1.25" buckles will end up requiring a belt that is a bit narrower than I want. It also seems that not all 1.25" buckles are the same width and that each one will allow for a variance in belt width; same with the 1.5" belts. I think my ideal belt size is somewhere between 1.25" and 1.5". Ed

Is this "Needlebar Gallery" online someplace?

Hi Steve, Do you have a special method for setting the edge binding by hand? Very smooth work. Ed

I also like the reducer for this same reason. I have a reducer on a servo. I wish I had one of the two speed reducers, as I would like my machine to go even more slowly with more torque. Ed

I've ordered Nevr-Dull in bulk so save on cost and shipping. If anyone wants a can, I can sell a can for $5 plus actual shipping. Ed

Maybe stainless steel would be the way to go. I've also wondered if the steel burnishers work well. I've very impressed with the wood burnisher I got from Weaver. Just wish it was constructed more like Norm's. I know there's a guy on Ebay who sells the steel burnishers for a drill press. ed

I'm going to get 12" turning blanks from Rocklers. Thanks, Bree. Should I pick up any hand tools to help me turn them without the use of a lathe? Currently on hand I have metal files, sandpaper, and a dremel with various attachments. Thanks, Ed

Rather than having to turn by lathe or by hand, I would much rather buy a 1" dowel, cut off the section I need, and file out the necessary grooves. Macbeath Hardwoods has the following dowels. Which do you think would be the best alternative to cocobola, which I now do not feel like carving up. Cherry Dowel Genuine Mahogany Dowel Hickory Dowel Red Oak Dowel Walnut Dowel By the way, does anyone know what type of wood is used for Weaver's wood slicker? Ed

What should be my next choice of exotic HW, as I don't want to have to worry about the itching or inhalation of anything, even with the small quantity in which I'm interested? Bubinga, perhaps? ed

I've read about the itching. Your testimony to it is starting to dissuade me. Thanks for the heads up and thanks to both of you for the other sources. I was even considering paying$7 per feet of 12" dowel from Canada, where shipping will probably kill me. I got home with some Oak dowel the other day from The Home Depot, as that's all that either Lowes or THD had. Oak just seems to burn the leather. Ed

There's a guy on Ebay selling 15 pcs of 1.5" x 1.5" x 30" of cocobolo turning squares for $150. Any one interested in going in on this order, as I only need about two or three of these? I'm planning on using this wood to make slicking tools. Ed

I'm in he process of making some wood burnishers for the Dremel. Could you post pics of the attachment you use? By the way, anyone interested in going in on an order of 15 pcs of 30" cocobolo turning squares, 1.5" x 1.5", $150? Ed

Here's a 17" Maverick just finished. Ed