esantoro

Thanks, Skip. That's exactly what I wanted to see. Do you also run the thread twice through the eyelet near the top tensioning discs? Ed

Thanks, Skip. That's exactly what I wanted to see. Do you also run the thread twice through the eyelet near the top tensioning discs? Ed

I'm back on the hunt for a good source for Ballistol. I came across this information that might be useful: "First Ballistol is nothing more than emulsified mineral oil, yes baby oil, also known as coal oil. NAPA Soluble Oil (part # SL2512) is also emulsified mineral oil, but with anti-rust agents and anti-fungal agents. Ballistol is $9.99 plus shipping from MidWayUSA for 16 oz. The NAPA product is $5.95 for 32 oz. That means that Ballistol is about 3 1/3 times more expensive excluding shipping." Ed

Does anyone actually thread his or her 3000 or 4000 the way shown in the video, twice through the pigtail near the top tensioning discs and then twice through the eylet near the lower tensioning discs? My 441 is not an Artisan. Instead of the eyelet above the lower discs, I have an L-bar, which the thread goes over and then through the eye-spring. I'd like to try an eyelet above the lower discs and I do have one hole where it could go. If it's possible could someone take a close-up picture of this eyelet on the 3000. and/or 4000?

I noticed today on my jeans that there are rivet backs that look very similar. This might get us warmer: http://www.hohm.com/html_t/jeans_button1.htm ed

If anyone here uses the 1" or 7/8" 325 or 325M dees from Weaver leather, could you tell me how thick the bottom bar is? I'd like to order in bulk, but I want to make sure that the bottom bar is somewhere between 4mm and 5mm thick. Weaver's catalog states 5mm but from past experiences some stated specs have been different from what was actually received. Thanks, Ed

Another thing to check is the length of the bobbin you are using. Measure them with a caliper. I had a bunch of bobbins that were a tad longer than the bobbins that came with the machine and noticed that these would spin in the bobbin case with inconsistent tension. I also noticed that the spring inside the bobbin case was aiding in adding too much irregular tension on the bobbin. I removed that spring (you could just cut it down a few rings). And everything works much better, as the deciding factor for bobbin tension is now only the bobbin tension screw, not some other variable. Ed

I used two applications of bag kote and then an application of Aussie wax. ed

This one is latigo.

Here's the finished Ambassador. Ed

What applications do you use the Tough Coat for? ed

I've started experimenting. So far I like the idea of the substitution. I'll stay away from locktite red but what about an epoxy or super glue? Would either of these provide a stronger bond than locktite blue but weaker than locktite red? Ideally, I'd like something between red and blue I was also wondering if head diameter varies among providers. The Formay brand Chicago screws I have from SewWhat supplies have a head diameter of 10.15mm to 10.20 mm. I could use this diameter, but I'd rather have a diameter of around 12mm. Ed

Zack White also has them but not in copper. I've got a few of the 3/8" posts and 1/4" screws and have to experiment with some applications. If I use the red locktite on these will it be impossible to unscrew them by hand, ever? The Blue locktite still allows for rather easy removal with a screwdriver, though it may have enough hold for what I need. Ed

weaver leather has one that looks pretty good for around $160 excluding shipping.

I used 600 grain sandpaper on the edges. Slicked with a wood slicker and did two coats of LCI/Weaver Edge Paint. I'm happy having Ivans slicker and motor, but I think I still lean toward the exotic wood slicker. I'd like to make a wood slicker that will fit the 1/8 hp motor. ed

I'm thinking about substituting Chicago screws for tubular and doublecap rivets on my bags and using red locktite, perhaps blue, to keep them from coming loose. I've read in a post long ago that one way to securely tighten these is to use a rubber bicycle innertube underneath the post head to grip it and keep it from turning while tightening the screw. Might there be some other methods for keeping the post and head stationary while tightening the screw? Thanks, Ed

Hi Mike, I tried wiring everything up. It didn't work. I'm beginning to think that I my need to fashion a starter plug. Is this something easy to do? Ed

Here's a new bag I'm working on: The Walden Ambassador. This bag gives the user the option of attaching the shoulder strap to either the gusset dees or the top flap dees. I really like the four internal pockets on the middle panel. Ed

There was a thread about this awhile back. Some people find a round object of the size needed and cut around it. There are some compass type tools with a stationary end and a blade end. I've tried locating a center point, marking a bunch of radial points, and then cutting along the dots. Ed

I'm in. Let's start a club. Better yet, let's start a little cottage industry. ed

I used to send out a printed page with a bit of information about the leather used in the bag and basic instructions for cleaning and care. I now would like to print this out on card stock, fold it in half, and tie it to the bag. Is there a function within Microsoft Word that will print these out or do I need to buy a special program? Thanks, Ed

I've got Carnauba cream and have been wondering about ways to work this into my regimen. It seems to be taking a back seat to everything else I have. I have not tried solid blocks of 100 percent Carnauba wax. Do you suggest it for all smooth leathers, or just veg tan?

I just got some edge dye in. It is alcohol based and doesn't seem to be very different from regular dye. A call to Fiebing's confirmed such. I also asked questions about edge enamel and was told it was a bit difficult to use and not as flexible as Edge Kote. I'm thinking about prepping my edges with dye and hen going over them with edge kote or a similar finish,so if the edge kote begins to wear off there will still be a dark background. Ed

I just got some tan kote and like the results. I've tried bag kote on some chrome tan and latigo. It appears that bag kote is only for veg tan. The label states as much. I received tan kote today and tried it on some scraps of chrome tan and latigo, and it works well. Does anyone else use tan kote on chrome tan? Do you think tan kote and bag kote for veg tan should be the final stage in leather prepping? Usually the final stage for me is a coat or two of aussie wax or something similar. Should I be applying bag or tan kote over the aussie wax or under. Experience tells me to apply Aussie Wax or similar last. ed

I also have those LED lights. The white light it puts out is great,but the only problem I've had is that with the oil that builds up above the needle the little magnetic strip fell off and eventually the wire broke free from its solder. A project for a later date is to resolder, though I'm really waiting for someone to come out with a CREE LED setup. http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index....p;productId=277 Ed