esantoro

This is a tremendous offer. I'd love to pick your brain on making pens, as I just got the basic equipment to make them. Ed

The straps are removable. Imagine four strap retainers, just like on the front of the bag, inside the back pocket on the rear bag panel. You can see on my website how the back is done: www.waldenbags.com Ed

You can see on my website how the back is done: www.waldenbags.com Ed

This one is of an oiled chrome tan. The bottom back dees are so the shoulder strap can be converted into a backpack straps that run through the top o-ring and clip to the back bottom dees. Because there are the two back bottom dees, I added the two front dees for symmetry and to allow for lashing items to the bottom of the bag. the top o-ring and bottom dees can be left off at the customer's request. Ed

Here's a 16" Maverick with padded laptop compartment that went out today. Ed

Just found out on YouTube that CCR was singing about Lodi, California. Ahh, well.

I'm thinking of getting Ivan's motor along with his burnisher, but I do like the idea of having a variable mini bench grinder for this task. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=43533 Does anyone have experience with these. If I get it, I'd have to use some kind of arbor adapter to go from 10mm to 1/2" and with some extension to allow burnishing space, which ma unbalance the grinder. I've never used one of these mini grinders and don't know is such modifications are possible. Ed

Anything to return the favor for turning me on to Penn State Industries. I've received everything to start turning blanks and making pens, but it will be some time beore I am able to try it all out.Ed I know that there are small desktop grinders that have a variable speed of 0 to 10,000 rpm. I wonder about their quality due to a a $35 to $45 price tag.Bree, is your Delta drill press variable speed without having to change a drive belt? Now that I have my turning supplies and drill press lathe, I can see how useful it would be to have such a drill press. My variable speed requires the changing of the belt.ed

This simple test doesn't do and can't do anything to test how well each conditioner affects the composition of the leather. It tests only the ability of the conditioner to repel water. My review of the results, after nine days, suggests that the two least expensive conditioners -- Sno-Seal (first place) and Aussie Wax (second place) -- performed the best. Sno-Seal, which smells as if it has petroleum products that might not be very good for leather, apparently has none, according to its website, which states that the ingredients are all natural and completely healthy for leather. It even takes a stab at the higher priced conditioners as being just a bunch of hot air. Ed

The next set of pictures, amended with "1W," shows the water stain left behind after 20 minutes of exposure and the water bead wiped away: This last set of pictures, amended with the "1W" underscored, shows a time elapse of approximately 40 minutes after the water bead had been wiped away.And....Our Survey Says?????????????????????????????????

This next set of pictures shows a time-elapse of 5 minutes. I forgot to amend the labels for clarification. This next stage of pictures shows a time elapse of 20 minutes:

The Nine-Day Update Nothing additional was added to the leather samples. The following pictures marked with the Letter corresponding to the respective conditioner show how the water droplet beads immediately on the leather. One thing you notice is that the leather conditioned with Pecard and Obenhauf's begins immediately to absorb the water.

You might want to send Ivan an email. He raves about his burnisher, and he's now planning on selling them with a small motor. http://cgi.ebay.com/Fantastic-Leather-Edge...id=p3911.c0.m14 Ed

I also liked the LED lights, but the cable broke off on mine and I'm waiting to re-solder it and provide some kind of support for the wire to be able to flex without breaking off from the contact. Since I've ordered the danray lamp, I may just forgo the LED lights, though I am very interested in the very bright light that CREE LED chips put out. Ed

That is a nice lamp. That's the type of quality I've been looking for all this time. First time I've seen one like that, which I think is the type UKRAY was referring to. I'd like to get one like that with a c-clamp and put a CREE LED bulb in it. I cannot tell you how many times I have feared my $20 incandescent swing-arm lamp hood would fall against my cylinder arm machine, shattering the bulb six inches from my face. I'm getting one of these lamps along with the bulb protector. Thanks Bree and UKRAY. It's taken me years to finally find such a lamp. ed

I bought a great combo lamp on Ebay last night for $17 plus $15 for shipping. It's a Ledu Combination Art lamp that takes both a circline 22" daylight bulb and a regular 60 watt incandescent. I'm very much looking forward to using it. The things I now get excited about: a good anvil a mallet/maul with the right balance and heft exotic wood sticks a good light source It's almost not even about the leather anymore. Give me these, lock me up in a room, and give me a bit of food every day, and I'll be as happy as can be. It's all just so beautifully insane. Ed

I finally got suitable solid brass tubular rivets from Hanson Rivets in California. head dia: .371" post length: 3/4" post dia: 3/16" If anyone needs only a few, I can send them including rollover/peening washer for $.23 a set plus actual USPS cost. Ed

The main problem with the rolling die from OTB is that the nib on the end is too long and ends up botoming out before setting a good roll. I used my dremel last night to grind it down a bit. ed

What about rolling and locking each of the casters onto a 12" x 12" poundo board (1/4" rubber mat) from Tandys. Or you could use a square piece of thick veg tan. I would try something like this to counter the chatter. I have a bit of leather underneath each of the legs on my 441 stand for the very same reason. Ed

It seems that one of the most difficult things to get for the workshop is a good work lamp. I've already had seven break on me. Usually I've paid about $20 for a lamp. Either some plastic part on the base breaks or the swing arms lose their ability to stay in position. The best lamps I've had so far have been 22 watt circline fluorescent magnifying lamps, very sturdy construction. Only problem with these lamps is that the electronic ballast/transformer has burned out on both, and now I need to find a way to put in a magnetic ballast/transformer. Well, anyway, over a year ago, I was asking around for a source for individual universal clamps for these lamps. Today I am scouring the internet for another lamp purchase and came across this company in California. I don't know their prices, but in addition to possibly having good quality lamps, they also sell individual clamps, which may allow me to salvage some old lamps. http://www.affordaproducts.com/accessories.htm Ed

I've never been into cars or really many mechanical things. But there is just something so darn sexy about good quality sewing machines. All I can figure is that it must have something to do with the intertwining of simple mechanisms working in concert. The total working is complex, yet still simple. That and the fact that when you really think about it.... So much depends upon a sewing machine, to paraphrase William Carlos Williams. Ed, who is looking forward to the pinups of your 4000 long-arm

How heavy would you say the head is? ed

Found it: Net Operating Loss: You can use a year's net operating losses to offset income in future years. You may carry these losses forward to as many as 20 future years. You also have the option of carrying back losses to the previous two years. Instructions are found in IRS Publication #536 information from "422 Tax Deductions" by Bernard Kamoroff, C.P.A. Ed

That 10,000 sq. ft. working space sounds awesome. Ed

I've heard the best rpm is somewhere around 1700. Ed