esantoro

It does make sense, but that would mean that the horizontal and vertical points would have to begin at different lengths from a squared edge. Right? Am I correct in thinking that if the arcs begin at the same distance then the arc is symmetrical all the way around? Ed

I like the shape of the flap on the SAB bag. To me, it looks that the corners are symmetrically rounded, meaning that a round object of the proper size, such as a dinner plate, could be used. Or does it seem that the vertical and horizontal cuts begin at different lengths from the edge of a squared flap? I put a ruler up to the image on my laptop screen. It appears in the image that the cuts on both the vertical and horizontal axes begin at 12mm from a squared edge. I'll try to open the image up in photoshop and use the ruler grid there to be more scientific. Ed

I'm still trying to get around to making small burnishers for the dremel from 1" stock with a 1/8" hole drilled into them for a screw to be chucked into a dremel. A permanent mandrel would even be better, maybe a screw that goes all the way through with some epoxy on the shaft. I've bought the screws (longer screws for the mandrel). Now I need to find the time to turn them. I've done a few by hand but they turned out lousy. They work fine by hand but unusable with the dremel, as they are out of round (hole not centered properly) and the channel is not filed out properly. I'm trying to use pieces that are 7/8" to 1" dia. by thicknesses of 1/2", 3/4" and 1". Not sure if the weight of these will have adverse effects on the dremel. Here's a pic. Ed

I always carry a lot of stuff with me and want to be able to lash items to the bag. The retainers allow for better securing of items to the flap. They also allow for easier handling, opening and closing of the flap, as everything moves together, rather than having to fidget with straps and flap individually. Thanks for the feedback. Ed

Deuce, That looks great. ed

That chestnut bag is done in bridle leather and sells for $2000. Leaving off the retainers would shave off an hour of construction. Ed

I'm thinking about foregoing the strap retainers on the flap, which is what Swaine Adeney Brigg and Filson do. Which do you like better, strap retainers on the flap or no retainers? Ed

www.etsy.com

I also want to sleep with my machine...power, precision, elegant simplicity.

I was thinking that he was more interested in making something aesthetic than making a practical widget, even though the practical device would have been simple to do for someone who knows basic turning. ed

Just got off the phone with Siegel. They just got nickled solid brass dees in, though they are not listed on the website. Ed

Thanks for the replies. Buckleguy has a very good selection, but prices are a bit higher than Weaver. Quality looks to be the same. I'll call Siegel and ask, as there's no such indication on the website. Siegel's end-of-year sale is great for solid brass dees with a natural finish, though sometimes you get the mast style (rounded horseshoe looking), and other times you get the more regular looking dee. I was hoping to stave off purchases until January for tax reasons, but today Siegel is offering free shipping on end-of-year sale items, today only, for orders $150 and over. I bet J.T Batchelor has some great stuff. Ed

Does anyone know of a supplier other than Weaver Leather for chromed or nickled dees and rings? Ohio Travel Bags has solid brass but not chromed or nickled brass. Thanks, Ed

I would say that Tandy's needles are not CSO repackaged.

I haven't used this tool, but I can appreciate Art's comments about not being able to to screws that are 2" or more away from the leather edge. What about a two part tool that would allow for positioning anywhere. One might even be able to have some rubber substance underneath the post head for gripping and then use a wrench opening on the screw side to apply pressure. I will be trying this out in the coming weeks and will report back. If successful, pictures will follow. Ed

I'd like to start making padded laptop cases. Does anyone know if the padding material is called nylon-covered neoprene or something else? Thanks, Ed

I find that the tandy needlesare sturdier than the osbourne needles. I have not tried others. ed

That dumbing down evident in the luxury goods market spreads across education, medicine, business, journalism, religion, the whole spectrum of society. Basically it boils down to the less people really know and understand the more easily they will part with greater amounts of income. The video makes it seem like a very good idea for a grass roots collective to rise up and seriously challenge the name brands. I don't think it's such a Quixotic idea. Such a grass roots collective could could use the name brands against themselves, linking to articles, video, and audio about the reality of the business. Eighty percent of the high-end products are not produced differently from the counterfeited merchandise. I think that it is impossible not to lose something when you move away from one craftsperson working on the entire article to an assembly line of trained low-wage workers with narrow skills. Ed

It takes nearly a whole side. ed

Interesting video on luxury goods: Ed

Waterhouse hase a great price for bridle plus it ships free. Anyone know what tannery they use and whether they can do custom splitting? Ed

Your Aerostitch must stitch very close to the edge of the needle plate. My 441 stitches about 7mm from the edge with a slotted, feeddogless needleplate, though I could modify the plate by grinding it down. As you know, every millimeter matters. Damn, just what I need, another project. Ed

I also glue and clamp the edges, but I usually never wait more than 45 minutes. Waiting longer, if possible would be a good idea. Another thing I do, if I remember to do it, is to dampen the 4" difficult area on both gussets, fold it back about an inch, clamp it and let it sit for about 30 minutes to an hour. What I have found that works best, but not the quickest, is to mark of the stitches needed around that corner, punch them with the machine, glue everything together, stitch up to that point, and do those 15 or so stitches by hand and double back to reinforce that corner. I usually use 5/6 oz. I currently have on order bridle leather of different thicknesses: 9/10 oz for straps, 6 oz. for front and back panels, and flap, and 4.5 oz for gussets, back pocket, and middle panel. Do you use a a holster plate, or other specialty plate at all? I use the holster plate when I can, but doing so usually precludes me from using the material guide which I like to use. Ed

I was just passing on my experience with a particular product. This is the second time I've done so on this forum and Artisan has replaced an item on their own accord, without my even requesting it. That's incredible customer service that exists in very few places today. The LED light that came today has stronger magnetic holders that do a much better job of keeping the LED light and wire in place. Being from Southern California, I can't wait to get back out there and pay Artisan a visit, especially since that 20" splitter is daily becoming needed more and more. Thanks, Dave, Steve, and all the folks and Artisan. Ed

Nice work, Ian. Did you have any difficulty stitching the bottom corners where the two gussets and center panel meet? With thicker leather, I usually have to hand stitch the 25 or so stitches around that corner. I have yet to try a case that uses one wider gusset for the entire bag, and where that particular corner stitching wouldn't be necessary. Ed