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Everything posted by esantoro
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If I were in Europe right now, I'd snatch up that machine in a heartbeat. Any idea how much it would cost to ship it to Warsaw, Poland? Ed
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Has anyone used the acrylic pattern templates from Jeff Mosby. I use aluminum templates for all my squares and rectangles, but I'm thinking of getting curved acrylic pattern templates for certain bag parts. Ed
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I recently got a 15 lbs anvil and a 55 lbs anvil and don't know how I ever did without them. Having suitable mass underneath your work makes setting snaps and rivets much easier. Ed
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Is there a special way to prep or finish or polish the top of an anvil that has radial patterns (looks like thumbprint lines) on it? Thanks, Ed
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I'd like to find some steel plates between which I can sandwich a piece of leather and an embossing stamp. I've got two now, but they weren't made for this specific task. I'll know how well they work in about a week. Ed
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Harbor Freight actually has attachments for this press that will aid in stamping? Thanks.
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Great News, 45LC. What company is that. I should see if they have anything I need. Thanks. Ed
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I love finding ways to use tools I already have on hand. What do you all think about using a 1/2 ton arbor press for impressing 2"wide logos? http://www.amazon.com/1-2-Ton-Arbor-Press/dp/B00077KLIC I have a steel rectangle for the base: 3.8" x 1.5" x .5": the stamp will be 2" x 1.25". The same size steel flat bar could be used for placing on top of the stamp and receiving the pressure of the 3/4" ram. Having the 3/4" ram press down directly on the stamp might break the stamp. Ed
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get a stitching wheel harness needles 1, 4, and 5 pronged hole punches Granite slab rawhide or poly maul/mallet thread beeswax This is important stuff to have and together you'll have more fun and a better looking product than if you were to just use that automatic awl. Ed
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Johanna, do you mean "a" in the most recent pictures, or are you referring to #2 in the earlier post? Ed
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IT is an "a". I had to start using letters to avoid the confusion of overlapping numbers. "a" is the goudyoldstbt font I like so much but bold face. The result is that there is no more overlap in the "W". "a" is the same as #4, but "a" is bold faced. #6 is bold faced Garamond. I think I have narrowed my choices down to "a" or #6. I don't know why bold facing goudyoldstbt in "a" results in removal of the overlap in the "W", but the same is not the result with Garamond, which has the overlap in both regular and bold typeface.
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Ok. This is it. I mean it this time. I've narrowed my choice down to three. Which one do you prefer? Ed
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That's a good point about that one W drawing attention to itself. Thanks.
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I picked up this mini drill last weekend. Very good to have on hand. I have used my Dremel before, but I need to drill in a spot with very little room for error, hence the manually powered mini drill. ed
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Jordan, Would you say the sheet rubber you're referring to, is the same as that used in the Tandy poundo boards, or is the rubber sheeting that goes on the bed of clicker presses different? Ed
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Whichever font I choose, I will obsess over the spacing of everything and get it just right. Everyone I've asked on my end hear prefers the English 111 Vivace subtext font, so that has now been decided upon. The only thing left is to decide upon the font for the main text. The font with the overlapping W is Garamond, which I do like and might try to use just that W as a key ring fob or some kind of logo elsewhere, perhaps with an incorporated B. The main text font in #2 is Georgia, which seems to be edging its way toward my second choice. I'm sort of leaning towards ruling out #8, Times New Roman, because I don't particularly like the left half of the W, something thin and asymmetrical about it. Thanks, again, for putting up with my fussiness. It really does help to get others' opinions. Ed P.S. I just now decided to throw #4 (which I think was #3 in an earlier post; I'm beginning to confuse myself with all the revisions and need to put this thing to rest soon) back into the hat.
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Thanks, again, for the feedback. Almost there. Here's #2 again along with two new choices. Do you still prefer #2, or one of the others? Thanks, Ed
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I used it on the oval punch and then tested it on a index card. The edge was able to slice through the index card with very little force and without the card bending. I know this isn't the way one should probably go about sharpening leather tools, but I was very surprised at the results. Ed
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I know this may not sit well with many people, but here's a tool I just now used with great results to sharpen an old oval punch. $6 at The Home Depot Ed
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The obsessing is almost nearing an end. I've found out how to change spacing between characters. Which logo version do you like better? Each version has a number from 1 to 4 inside the oval on the left. Thanks, Ed
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Needle Jamming Into Retaining Ring and Hook
esantoro replied to Ashley's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Check the sailrite forum, as there is some discussion of this problem that I believe is simple to fix. -
Ian, Would you say that the rubber Tandy was using didn't tear or puncture as easily as what they use now? I'd also like to find more puncture resistant rubber mats. Ed
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Now that I've started using Tandy's poundo boards on top of my anvil for pounding out 2" logo blanks, I know what you mean about the quality of this rubber: too easy to cut through it. I'm also looking for better rubber, so please let us know if you've found it. Ed
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Ian, is that burgundy latigo from Hermann Oak or elsewhere? Very nice color.
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I'm going to pull the trigger on this purchase and hope it works for my needs (though bookbinding is something I'd like to get into, as well). I might be able to get the Brockman, which Valerie Michaels references in her book -- and may infer that it is suitable for heavier work than bookbinding -- for the same price. http://apps.webcreate.com/ecom/catalog/pro...ProductID=23720 I would have to secure this machine with two C-clamps, while the Schar-fix has a built in single clamp. http://apps.webcreate.com/ecom/catalog/pro...ProductID=17482 Based on the pictures, it seems that the Brockman may be able to take thicker leathers between the blade and the anvil. Does anyone have experience with the Brockman? Thanks, Ed