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I never imagined I would start getting so into anvils. How I wish I could afford both the space and the price for this one on ebay: item #200218172835 Ed

I've purchased and downloaded a few Nolo press ebooks on tax deductions for small businesses. Very informative. Thanks for helping to get the ball rolling. Ed

Here's the best information I've seen on the net for getting the correct size harness egg-eye needles: http://www.hidehousesouth.com/Tools/sewing.htm Ed

I may be soon purchasing an anvil from Harbor Freight, and will also need to get an oil can to make it easier to oil certain parts of my 441 stitcher. Does this seem like a good oil can to get? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=36629 Ed

Thanks, David. I like to stock up on supplies when I find good prices. Lets say I buy five gallons of Tanners Bond because the price is right. I may not use all of that glue in the year I buy it. Can I still deduct the entire glue cost for that year. The same goes for Aussie wax, Bick 4, Dual 88, beeswax, rivets, etc. Also, I don't want to report a loss for any year . but rather have any losses apply to the next year's deductions. Thanks, again, for this help. I will soon be contacting an accountant. Ed

Thanks for the additional replies and information on the hardy hole, which looks interesting. Sometimes I have a bit of trouble getting the heads of tubular rivets for my handle assembly to stay positioned properly on an anvil surface, while I hammer on the caps from the other side. Are there any special tools do help do this? I have the small round concave button-looking anvils from Tandy, which can't be used. I also have the concave hand-held setter from OTB, but this requires me to put force on the rivet head down into the rivet cap, and the caps set better when force is applied from the cap end down onto the rivet post. Ed

Hi Lady J, Thanks for your response. It seems that what I am doing is the accrual method. Every bag requires the same materials, same amount of thread, conditioner, edge coating, rivets, packing materials, etc. I just add or subtract for more expensive or less expensive leather. When I sell a bag I, I immediately have deductions for materials and have a tunning total of profit and loss. If I'm understanding correctly, the cash method wouldn't allow me to deduct for, say, edge coating until I use up the bottle. It may take more than a year to use up a particular color of edge coating. I figure one 4 oz bottle can do eight bags, so for each bag, I add to my list of materials consumed 1/8 of the price of edge coating. Does this sound correct, or am I missing something? Ed

Thanks for your responses. I'd love to snatch up the Harbor Freight anvil on sale for $30. HF is extremely kind on the shipping for a 55 lbs anvil. I like the railroad track idea and I'll keep on the look out. Ed

I need to get a better anvil for setting caps on tubular rivets for my bags. I currently use a small anvil from Tandy, which is fine for Jiffy rivets but not for tubular rivets and caps. Can anyone recommend a good bench anvil. Left to my own devices, I'd order this 55lbs anvil from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...?Itemnumber=806 By the way, what is the square hole for in the Harbor Freight anvil? Thanks, ed

Thanks, Ian. This was a big help. I think I'll write up a standard materials sheet that can be added to or subtracted from. Ed

Each business has its own peculiar ways of accounting for expenses, so I thought I'd start a thread on taxes. For 2008, I will have to be itemizing deductions and declaring profits and losses. On schedule C, there are a few options for lists material costs. One option is "other." I have a list of materials and there costs for one leather bag: glue, conditioner, leather, rivets, thread, etc. I've figured out the costs for all of these. Is it appropriate to use this standard cost sheet for all bags? Thanks, Ed

would one layer of 10 oz bridle be enough for a good belt? Stitching only near and around the buckle, the length of the belt creased. Ed

Great job, Nick. I'm also looking to put through an order with Wickett & Craig. I was thinking of making a belt with one layer of 10/12 oz Bridle or dyed skirting. Is it correct that your belt is a combined 16/20 oz? Ed

Only just now did I understand this method. Brilliant. Thanks. Ed

Thanks for this post. I like the beeswax burnish better. Now LCI has the Dyo Edge Finish which is more of a matte. How well will the black oil dye/beeswax/leatherbalm work with two or three stitched layers. I'm very anxious to see how well the reliable works. Ultimately at my disposal I would like to have these methods: 1. Burnishing Wax ink 2. Edge Kote and beeswax (I'll have to try leather balm on top of that. 3. LCI/DYO matte edge finish Ed

I've heard that some people do a top coat of resolene or somethng similar on edges. Can't speak with a hundred percent conviction but this neutral does seem pretty flexible. Here is my new best friend: http://sewwhatsupplies.com/cart/ Great service, great prices on many items, great shipping. Ed

I think I like this neutral. If, for one reason or another, you can't get the edge you're looking for with gum trag, try two layers of this neutral, beeswax, and burnish. Very nice. Ed

Anyone use Neutral Edge Kote. The price was right so I added some to a recent order. Thought it might come in handy. What would one use the neutral for? The neutral seems thinner than either the black or brown. Also, the bottles read not to shake but to stir the contents. How would one ever stir the contents of a 32 oz bottle with the small opening. My guess is shake real well once and then pour some into some other usable container. Ed

I tried it a long time ago. Now I have cable Internet phone service, which has free long distance around U.S. Puerto Rico , and Canada. Inexpensive minute rates around the world. My service is Vonage. Skype is set up on my laptop right now. I'll have to find my headset and call you up to see how the Edge Ink is coming along. Ed

I tried once asking OTB about the Birkenstock parts. They told me I needed special authorization to buy those products. Ed

I was in Manhattan today and picked up two bobbin cases for my sailrite/yamata/consew portable walking foot machine. When I got home, i noticed that the bobbin cases I bought have a shorter extended prong than the one that came with my machine. Is this prong, long or short, simply used to aid insertion of the bobbin case, or does it serve another purpose? Thanks, Ed

Nice work. I love your chap leather.

Ebay has turned into a good advertising vehicle.

I think quality leather goods have a better chance selling for what they are worth on Etsy than on Ebay. You pay your twenty cents and your listing is up for four months. When it sells, Etsy gets a commission of about four percent. Because of the way Etsy lists your item, it pays more than it does on Ebay, to my mind, to put time into taking good pictures. ed

Kathy,Could you post pics of that applicator and the edging product?Thanks,ed http://www.leathercoatings.com/edge.htm