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Just now cleaned out the glass jar, which had had a dark brown bick 4 dye mix in it for about a week. Nice and clean and ready for different color. Ed

Hi Tom, I'm thinking of the glass jars, for the very reason that they can be cleaned. I was just now experimenting with Pete's idea of using dye mixed with Bick 4. Not sure yet if they can be fully cleaned after use. Ed

Have any of you ever seen baby food in the 4 and 6 oz jars go on sale for twenty-five cents a piece? I figure that instead of paying about thirty cents a piece for used jars on Ebay, maybe I can get them for about the same price with actual food in them. Another option is to ask neighbors I see with strollers if they throw out their jars. Anyway, these jars are good for mixing and storing small amounts of dye and whatever else. Thanks for the suggestion of using pill bottles (from a different thread). I'll give it a look. Ed

David, I'm putting in an order for the Dyo Edge Finish tomorrow. Carlos at LCI told me that this has a honey-like consistency, and the only real difference between this and the Edge Ink is that the Edge Finish has a matte finish, whereas the Edge Ink is glossier. Carlos also told me that they can custom match colors and that colors could be mixed for desired shades. I need black, brown, mahogany, chestnut, and tan, and perhaps shades in between these colors. Do you think it's best to buy the individual colors or is there a good method to mixing certain colors to get a variety of browns? Since this edge finish seems to be thicker than Fiebings Edge Kote, do you have any idea how long 4 oz would last? I'm asking because the 4 oz bottle of Edge Kote I have seems like it would last quite a while. I'm guessing that the Dyo Edge Finish will last half as long, due to it being thicker. Thanks for your rundown on this company and its products. It was extremely helpful. Ed

I have a logo that Daryl and others have helped me with. It is very nearly completed but for a few minor tweaks. I just haven't had the time lately to sit down and think along those lines. I would absolutely love to see what you can do with the Corel Draw files I already have created. Thanks for the offer, Ed

Does anyone have experience with these two Texas companies, which have merged: Dyo Chemicals and LCI Chemicals. They seem to duplicate many of the edge finishes and leather dressings and conditioners that Fiebings and other companies have. I'm wondering if their products might be better. Their edge finishes certainly seem to be able to provide that rubberized edge look and feel some of us have been looking for. Ed

called LCI just now. They acquired DYO Chemical. I was told the Dyo Edge Finish is what is needed: Edge Finishes DYO Edge Finish: DYO Edge Finish is a non-hazardous, non-flammable, quick drying edge finish. DYO Edge Finish produces a smooth, even edge that provides the perfect finished look to your quality footwear. DYO Edge Finish is available in many popular colors and Custom Color Matching is also available. Burnishing is not required when using DYO Edge Finish, just apply and allow to dry. Application: Spray, Manual, or Edging Machine Manual Edge Ink: Manual Edge Ink is a “thick,” water based edge finish that quickly fills in between the fibers of exposed leather and dries to a smooth, glossy edge. Manual Edge Ink will not crack or peel, and once dry is waterproof. Manual Edge Ink is available in popular edge colors as well as Custom Matched Colors. Burnishing is not required when using Manual Edge Ink. Application: Manual Custom colors are available. You need a tax ID to order Ed

Aussie wax works well. That LCI company seems to have a waterproofer. Also there's a product sno-seal something or other. This is the best waterproofer I know of, though I don't if it has certain petroleum products that may not be good in the long run for the leather and thread. It has a sort of petroleum smell to it. ed

I just thought of a possible idea to thicken Edge Kote. What about mixing it with a medium or heavy body acrylic paint? I'll try mixing some in a baby food jar. By the way, does anyone know of a good source for small baby food jars, which are perfect for mixing and storing small amounts of dye? Ed

It looks like Zack White might be reselling LCI's products. What I found on this linked page is Fiebing's Edge Enamel... Might be interesting. Is it thicker than Edge Kote, or the is it the very same thing? The other items are the Edge Ink, probably from LCI. Is this the stuff that works better than Fiebing's Edge Kote. If this Edge Ink is from LCI, it's good to know that they of the colors they have I need only the brown and black. I was dredding to have to decide and try from among ten different shades of brown and black. Here's the info from LCI's website. It seems that their Edge Coat has the heaviest viscosity. I'm calling this week to get the rundown on the differences among all the edge coating products. Edge Ink * A fast setting acrylic, pigmented edge dressing. Imparts a durable high-gloss and waterproof finish. Application: spray or manual. Use as is. Do not thin. EDGE ENAMEL * A fast drying acrylic edge dressing. Imparts a semi-gloss and waterproof finish. Application: spray or manual. Use as is. Do not thin. * EDGE COAT * A transparent colored edge dressing. Heavy viscosity. Application: manual. If thinning is desired, use water only. * BURNISHING EDGE INK * A fast setting carnauba wax ink that burnishes to a very high-gloss. Imparts a smooth, waterproof, lustrous finish with excellent fill. Use as is. Do not thin. * NEUTRAL CASING * A viscous edge leveler. Also used for smoothing flesh-sides. Apply with a soft cloth or sponge. For best results, rub in one direction.

I've noticed that the bottle of Fiebing's Edge Kote reads "stir before use. Never shake". However, this company's web site reads that their pigmented edge dyes should be stirred or shaken. I don't like the idea of wasting any edge coat by having to wipe off my stirring stick. I could figure a way to wipe the dye onto my application felt, but it seems it could be a bit messy. Is there really a problem with shaking Fiebing's Edge Kote? Ed

Does anyone know if the edge coat this company sells is thicker than Fiebing's edge kote, or is it pretty much the same? Also, would this company have colors other than brown and black? If anyone is interested in going in on a minimum order, I'm game. I'll give them a call this week. Ed

Thanks for the posts on these lamps. Just what I needed. I got tired of always trying to properly position my incandescent worklamp The combination of Artisan's Halogen work lamp and the LED lights is perfect. Now I can use the incandescent lamp elsewhere. One thing to note about Artisan's Halogen work lamp, at least the one that comes with the c-clamp, is that it doesn't come with the male prongs that plug into a socket. You've got to get one at a hardware store. The lamp is switchable 110/220 volts and doesn't come with the male prongs because these lamps ship from China to a variety of countries. Another similar lamp is the Reliable 7000S 1 über Light Halogen Sewing Light. http://www.unbeatablesale.com/relb105.html The Reliable lamp comes with something called a Dichroic halogen bulb that puts out 70 percent less heat. I was wondering if this Dichroic bulb is what all similar halogen bulbs are, and the same as that in the Artisan Lamp, or if it is a different technology that requires a specific type of lamp. I'm asking because as with other Halogen lamps I've had in the past, this Artisan lamp with 12 watt halogen bulb seems to get pretty hot. When it comes time to replace the bulb, I'd like to get a cooler one if possible. Ed

If anyone in the New York City area has an Artisan 4000R machine, would it be possible for me to come by and take a look at it? I've been ordering a few things from them lately and am now interested in getting my second machine from them, but I'd first like to see how their 4000R differs from my current 441 clone. Thanks, Ed

I'd like to know what type of presser feet this machine uses, buy a few, and grind them down for various tasks. The other option is to just buy the $35 leather presser foot, which is just a regular presser foot with the teeth ground down. grinding down the presser foot would allow an additional 1/16" clearance. ed

I like the idea of using plastic cards as spreaders. thanks for the replies. ed

What's the best solvent to use for cleaning glue brushes that have been used to spread both white glue and contact cement. Because I have it for my gas lamp, I have been using denatured solvent alcohol. It seems to work as long as the brushes are kept in the solvent, but when I take them out, dry the off, and let them sit, they harden up again. I'll try rinsing the brushes off in very hot water. My next guess is to use turpentine, but the denatured solvent alcohol doesn't pose a problem with fumes, which I'm not sure is the case with turpentine Thanks, Ed

I'm also going to try sawing off the lt. side toe on my double toed foot. The reason is because my dedicated rt. side presser foot comes down on the slope of the raised stirrup plate, rather than on top of it. You already have that sawed off foot. You may need to bend the rt. toe in so that it does set down atop the stirrup plate. I've also noticed that for getting close to objects and using a flat plate, a slotted, feeddogless plate works better than the flat plate you have shown, which is the blanket, nylon flat plate with protruding feed dog. The flat slotted plate I mention does not and cannot use a feed dog. Instead there is a ground down feed dog that moves below the slotted plate and acts merely as a needle guide but never comes in contact with your material. The result is better stitches, especially for intricate work. Did you modify your lt side presser foot? I've never seen that type before. When i get the time I'll upload all my presser feet. Ed

It would be helpful to have one of the raised needle plates that Artisan sells and possible their rt. side presser foot, though I think it might also be a good idea to get their double-toed short foot and cut off the lt. side toe. Could you upload a closeup pic of the feet you currently have on your machine? Ed

Just got a couple of strap end punches from Leather Unlimited. Good price at $13 apiece. They work very well. I don't have any idea about how well the edges will hold up, but don't have any reasons to worry. Ed

Nice work, Leathercat.

I get better results when I wrap the top thread 2.5 times around the lower tension discs. ed

I think I've precluded this problem from appearing by saddle stitching with thick thread and riveting through 4 layer's of 5/6 oz chrome tan and a metal clip.Ed I just got in two sides of the leather used in this ghurka bag.

ahh, another "wayward warrior." Thanks for the info from artisan. That's one I haven't tried yet. I've also noticed that different presser feet will influence stitch quality on thinner leathers. Which presser foot setup are you using? On thinner leathers I get the best results with the blanket foot setup. Ed

You are probably right about my needing to see it for myself. i seem to opt for the hard way in many things. To make the long, short, i did end up returning the jerry stripper. ed