esantoro

yeah. The original threaded hole is about three mm in diameter. out of luck there.

Got off the phone with Ron at Hidecrafters. He suggested I stay with bag kote, and that the tan kote was better for mixing with antique. His reasoning is that the tan kote treated leather tends get a bit gummy or tacky when wet, so is better not used on anything that will be exposed to moisture. ed

just got off the phone with Ferdco. The drill bit and tap specs needed are as follows: drill bit 25/64 tap 7/16-20 I'm off to the hardware store, as I have neither of these in my toolbox. Thanks again for the help, ed

This is such great help. guys. Thanks. Ferdco is also writing up all the specs I need to do the job right. Just in case I screw up, does anyone know where I can get these cast iron lube pots cheap? I could always plug the messed-up hole and drill another. By the way, the cast iron lube pot i'll be drilling through and tapping is 7.5 mm thick. In measuring it, I just noticed another thing. the current existing thread exit hole in the pot is already threaded. I'll call Ferdco and ask if this predrilled and threaded hole is already the right size, which would be very nice. Ed

Here's a page from Stohlman's book on using and caring for leathercraft tools. It seems to illustrate what some have pointed out in this thread . I have also realized how important it is to sharpen edgers. The different is as between night and day. The attached page shows the need to take a file or sanding stone to the bottom of the edger. So far I have been using 600 emory paper on the top side only in fear of dulling the cutting edge. The tandy edgers are good to practice on, as I'd hate to mess up a more expensive edger. ed sharpen_edgers.pdf sharpen_edgers.pdf

I would like to start using either tan kote or bag kote on my bags as a finishing step just before the last step which is the application of either Pecards, Aussie Wax, or Sno-Seal. I'm not quite sure of the difference between bag kote and tan kote (i'd be using neutral of both). Upon further reading, it seems that tan kote provides more of a resistance to moisture, which sounds nice in combination with Pecards et. al. Here is my conditioning regimen: 1. LExol or fiebings 4 way conditioner, if necessary. 2a. NEatsfoot oil on latigo and veg tan leathers. 2b. Bickmore Bick 4 on chrome tanned leathers. 3. PEcards, Aussie Wax. or Sno-seal. Now I'm thinking of putting an application of either bag kote or tan kote somewhere before step 3. I want the the leather to be able to accept later applications of leather conditioner, neatsfoot oil, and pecards/aussie wax/sno seal. As always, Thank you very much for your help. Ed

In a couple of days I'll be getting thread wipers from Ferdco for my lube pot. I can handle the drilling required, but I have never tapped a hole before. I imagine tapping a hole is the same as threading a hole. Do I just run down to Lowes or Home Depot and pick up a tapping bit of the required size, chuck it up and drill, or is this a hand operated procedure. I'm really looking forward to using the lube pot full time. Thanks for the help. Ed

I think I'd like to next get a bench grinder so that I can use the sharpening system sold by weaver and hidecrafters to sharpen scissors, knives, and splitting blades. Harbror Freight was a good place for a cheap drill press, are they also good for bench grinders? Is there a certain size I should go for? Thanks for the help, Ed

Thanks Art. It hasn't been that easy finding silicone thread lubricant. I ended up having to buy a 5 gallon container from Clearco, thinking that maybe others on the forum may want to buy some off me, as long as I can find a way to bottle it up securely. $22 a gallon, plus whatever shipping costs. ed

Art, In a post of yours in this thread, you mention that you use oil in your lube pot. Are you using lilly white oil? I'm about to install thread wipers similar to what you have and use the lube pot full time. Previously I had used lexol in the pot. Ed

I called up Ferdco. THey're sending me the materials for two thread wipers, about $10 for everything. I'll have to drill the existing thread holes in the pot, tap them, then install the wipers. I would have bought an entirely new pot with the wipers from Ferdco but I'd hate to have a spare pot lying around taking up space. Ed

That is some very nice stitching with the needle and awl machine. I recently noticed that I can get something similar with a serv 1 needle on a 794 system cylinder arm machine. I had been using diamond point needles, but due to chance ended up with the serv 1 needles. I think I'll also be trying the reverse twist needles. ed

I received my needle order from Ferdco. I had asked for diamond or tri point but they sent S serv 1, which I gave a try. Not bad. The serv 1 points seem to put down a stitch that looks hand stitched. Are there any issues regarding the serv 1 points that I should be aware of? For some reason, the proper size #25 serv 1 needle works well with 277 thread, when the organ #25 diamond point frays the thread. ed

Are there any special tweaks to increase the presser foot lift on the juki 441 clones? I'm also about to get a stirrup/corner plate and was thinking I'd use the narrow harness maker's foot with it. ed

oooh, i like the idea of a large rubber stamp for the burlap bag and the shipping box. Do you use a large ink pad or do you roll on the ink? Ed

I used my Hidecrafters $20 survey coupon to get an adjustabel edge creaser and some other stuff. Haven't received anything yet, but I thought I'd ask for opinions on the adjustable edge creaser versus the dedicated sizes. By the way which individually sized creaser would be best for 5/6 oz veg tan and bridle leather, which size for 8/10 oz? Thanks, Ed

Hi Art, I'm glad you mentioned Groz-Beckert. In my haste I ordered a pack of those too from different supplier and wanted to know your opinion of them. ed

Just got off the phone with Ferdco. It seems that the Schmetz needles have a longer thread groove on them and the problem I am having does happen with the Organ needles and thicker thread. Now I think I know to just stick with schmetz. Thanks again for the help, Ed

major, I have also been using the burlap bags from uline. What was your reason for doing so? Mine was for what I thought would be a cool presentation and to absorb moisture. Ed

i got a wire brush from a paint store. works well for $3. I think I'll head to sears this weekend for the tool Romey wrote about. thanks, Ed

When shipping off a bag to a customer, I like to put it in some kind of fabric bag. The upscale bag makers call this a dust cover. For one bag a year ago, I made a dust cover out of denim. It was fun, and I suppose not that time consuming when I get more familiar with that kind of quick stitching. However, I'd rather find a source for pre-made bags that cost about $1 piece. Right now I'm using burlap bags from Uline. Not a bad choice . it adds a little uniqueness to the presentation of opening the box and feeling as if you have acquired something from the far reaches of the world. Might anyone know of a source fro premade bags of cotton or some cheap material, even linen or muslin? Ed

Art, What is your SPI when using 346/277? Ed

I've been pretty much going by the needle/thread charts and even thinking that with coats poly I could go to a needle smaller than recommended. Just did a bit more experimentation. I put in the Schmetz 27 fabric needle that came with the machine to see what would happen. Problem is gone, but a 27 hole is way too big. I just ordered a pack of #26 needles, as I want to get some work done today and like the 277 thickness. Now I'll play around with 346....my oh my... I see my thread costs rising already. I'm also beginning to think that perhaps there might be a problem with the Organ #25 tri point/diamond point, and perhaps for certain size threads, a certain size and make of needle works better. Art, are you using Organ or schmetz? I think I'll order schmetz #25 tomorrow, as I think #26 for 277 top and 207 bottom will just make too big of a hole. I really do appreciate the help with trouble shooting this problem. Thanks, Ed

I'm using a new oragan tripoint needle #25. The top thread is the only thread fraying. I have checked the thread path. From what I can tell, the thread is fraying right at the point where the hook begins pulling the top thread down to be pulled over and around the bobbin case. My new educated guess is that the 277 top thread in a #25 needle is too taught in the 5/7 oz veg tan/latigo I'm currently using, resulting in too much tension from only the needle hole in the leather, not any of the tension adjusters. I even smoothed the edge on the hook where the top thread wraps around. I'll try some chrome tanned leather and see what happens. There should be less tension in the needle whole on chrome tanned. I never thought I'd have to go to a #26 needle. Thanks for your help, Ed

Whinewine, Do you like the Jerry Stripper? I'm thinking of getting one. Ed