esantoro

everything is just as it is in the eBay auction description, plus an extra narrower needle plate and a flatbed attachment, plus 25 bobbins, plus an assortment of quality needles. I'll check on freight. My guess is $150. I'll see about shipping the machine head freight and the rest UPS, though it's probably best to ship everything freight. I think what happens is I ship freight to the closest freight depot near you, and you pick it up from there. It's a bit more expensive if someone picks it up at your nearest freight depot and delivers it directly to you. I'll look into it. Ed

I still have it. Great little machine, if you don't want compound feed. I want to sell it to get a big sturdy work table on which I can put on and take off a portable compound feed machine. I'm running out of space. Ed

Thanks for the responses. The fine sand is the very thing that does it. I read that nomex has a tensile strength quite a bit less than poly. I think there are people our there who want something like this. They don't need it, save my one customer, but they want it. They also don't need their SUVs. Art, your knowledge on so many things is just amazing. Thanks, Ed

I know of one source for bonded kevlar thread. I know it's expensive, but I recently had a customer headed for Kuwait. He said the desert in the middle-East cuts right through nylon and polyester threads, the latter faring a little better. He told me that the military uses kevlar. So, this got the ol'wheels spinning. I know the stuff is strong, but does it also look nice stitched. I think this might be an easy way to put my bags over the $550 mark: sell to the SUV crowd. Ed

Regis, It has taken me a long time to reply, but thanks for recommending the analog caliper. Now I have both. They are indispensable. The digital one I bought isn't all that bad on batteries. I had to change the battery two days ago. Ed

Thanks for your responses. And, Art, thank you for the pattern idea. It works great. I was thinking that maybe there is some tool out there that would allow me to measure the curve of the arc, so that I can double check my patterning before I cut, something like a special protractor or something. Peter has a great idea. Use a ruler and measure out from the center, paying attention to where the arc rises. Though a regular ruler would work, a centering ruler would be nice. Ed

Does anyone know what the commercial sizing equivalent is for size 00 thread? Thanks, Ed

It seems that with every bag I complete, I focus on one aspect that could be improved. Now I'm wondering about optimum stitches per inch. I usually sew 207 bonded poly on 5\6 oz veg tan or chrome tan, two to three layers thick. Right now I'm sewing about 5/5.5 stitches per inch (my Juki clone is set between the 4 and 6 markers). I've go to experiment more, but my main question is may I use a stitch length setting that is between clicks of the adjusting wheel, or would I risk this setting losing its locked-in position? ed

Thanks so much for the replies. To the best of my knowledge this seems to be a veg retan, probably about 7 oz. It will not take tooling, I have not dyed the color. It doesn't absorb oil the way regular veg tan does. I was thinking about trying neatsfoot. In fact when I applied neatsfoot oil to a scrap of it, it seemed to expose blackened follicles at first. Later the scrap looked all right and maybe even a little darker. I'll try a larger piece of scrap. I like the sun idea, and see how it would work for veg tan, but this leather seems already to have some kind of top finish on it that was part of the tanning process. This isn't a veg tan that will take tooling or wet molding. Thanks again. I hope it works out, because I have five more sides already cut up into parts. Ed

Do you think customers will like a briefcase of this color. Today I learned what it's like to nearly finish a project only to think that I should never have used this particular leather. The swatches sent me looked ok, the sides too, but then as I was assembling the case I just wasn't so sure. Could I get away calling this color russet? I just don't want to have to call it orange. Is there a way I could darken it up.? It seems to be a veg retan of some sort. Ed

I'm always researching leather suppliers and recently a found a website that names leather in a way I think will be easier to find what I'm looking for. This information is listed on several websites, all related tothe boot industry: OIL and WAX IMPREGNATED LEATHERS l Crazy Horse l Dominion l Oiled Bull hide l Oiled Toro l Oily Ranch l Retan l Tauras Based on this information and other information on the websites, I think what I'm looking for is the tannery or tanneries that supply leather for Tony Lama and Jama Boots. Based on my research I should be able to find what I'm looking for in Texas. Can anyone point me in the next direction? Thanks, Ed

John, I called Hanson's today, but again they didn't have the sizes I was asking for. I'll try the 9/64. Did you get solid brass caps with those. Last time I asked, they had only steel. Ed

Hi Mike, I've been wanting to ask this for a long time. I've got a yellow poly mallet from Tandy but have been thinking it's a bit too light for setting rivets, especially copper rivets. Can you suggest a good size (weight) poly or rawhide mallet for setting rivets? ed

I have a couple of ideas for women's bags. One bag I caught a glimpse of in s Sunsilk shampoo commercial. I'm trying to locate that commercial so I can save a still image of the bag to find out who makes it. All I can say now is that it's a tan/light brown bag.

This will blow your mind: http://cgi.ebay.com/BEAUTY-Hermes-MARTINI-...1QQcmdZViewItem I don't even think a bag like this is all that difficult to make.

Thanks, Bruce. I would never have figured out that the hole was simply for hanging up the tool. I like your idea better.

I picked up an Osborne #9 tool from OTB along with my #9 rivets. I understand what the hole and the concave part are for on the end of the tool, but what is the larger hole that runs through the side of the head for?

Hi Luke, I seem always to be doing R&D. I've been looking for brass tubular rivets. Ghurka seems to use a a very nice light-weight brass rivet, but I suppose they have them specially made. Do you happen to know where to get those brass rivets you're talking about. All I have right now and am using on my bags in some places are the brass coated and nickel coated steel tubular rivets with caps. When I tried to check with Hansens and other industrial suppliers on the brass tubular rivets, sizes were limited, though Hansens was the most helpful. I'm calling them tomorrow. ed

Hi John, Can you tell me exactly what head type and size of tubular rivets you ordered from Hansens. I was trying to work with them six months ago but they didn't have the sizes I needed. For steel tubular rivets I stuck with OTB, about $5 for 100 and about $4 for 100 caps (brass plated only, old stock at that). Now I'm thinking of going with solid rivets. I like the method of using brute force to smash down the rivet post onto the burr. I get the feel that this is the strongest hold, especially for parts of my briefcases that have to bear a 30lbs load, though thick saddlestitching is also used in these areas. I want to make sure a rivet never pops out on a customer. My only concern with the solid rivets is that the rivet backs on my straps and two locations on the back of the briefcase (unless I forgo rivets here) will be exposed, and the look of the smashed down post onto the burr is not the most elegant. I think I may have a solution though: use the solid brass rivets only on those areas that bear a load, three in the handle assembly (backs will be concealed under suede lining) and for each of the two shoulder strap D-ring fobs (if I really want to obsess, I could work out away to conceal this rivet back too, hmmmm). I would use the double-capped brass jiffy rivets in all other places. I would also like to make a bag with copper rivets, but then I would also need copper plated double capped jiffys, and I'm not sure if they are even made. Anyway, I'm calling Hansens tomorrow to get their prices on the solid brass rivets. Ed

I'm looking to get the cp206r in the next few days. Is there any way these machines can be slowed down. It's nice to have a machine where the needles don't cost a buck a piece or more. I'm hoping to be able to run 138 in mine, but I can settle for 92 or 115 nylon.

I've decided to sell my Neel's Model 5 Heavy-Duty Harness Stitcher to make more room in my apartment. I'm going to replace it with a portable walking foot machine for medium weight suede and denim work. There is probably not even nine hours of stitching time on this machine, as I do all of my heavy leather stitching on my Juki 441 machine, which has a compound feed mechanism. The Model 5, which is similar to a Mach1 and Baby Bull 440, has lower feed only. I realize that the industrial sewing machine business can be pretty tense and competitive at times with so few suppliers, but Ryan Neel at Neel's Saddlery has been great and extremely helpful. He's even allowed me to link to one of his Model 5 auctions, which fully explains what the Model 5 is all about. My asking price for the machine (all standard equipment included, plus 25 bobbins and special narrow needle plate) is $600 plus shipping from New York City. You can read more about the Model 5 here: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&ct=res&...IUfifmhG7l11oBQ

I've been playing around with these copper rivets and love 'em. When I set them I am completely sure they will hold through anything, not so with double-capped brass Jiffy rivets and capped tubular rivets. I'm not too sure how the copper will mesh with my silver and brass hardware, so now I'm thinking about getting some solid brass rivets. Are they set the same way? I did notice with the copper rivets that you really do have to trim the posts down to 1/16", maybe a smidgen less, for them to flatten properly.

I have the Neel's Model 5. It sews anything I throw at it. If you have the money, go for a compound feed machine. The Model 5 is only a lower feed machine. Same with the Ferdco 440 and 440R. There's something special about the Model 5,though. It's a little work horse that wants to sew everything. I may be looking to sell my Model 5 to save space in my apartment and get a portable walking foot machine. Right now, I'm using the Model 5 for light suede and denim work and my Juki 441 clone for all my heavy leather stitching.

Thank you to Art and others, who suggested the use of a French curve and also the fold-over pattern technique for rounding corners asymmetrically. Now I'm wondering if there are any techniques or tools, other than a good pair of eyes and finger tips, that can help me check the evenness of such curves. I've attached a pic for reference. Thanks, Ed

I've tried melting the ends but I'm always worried that I might weaken the surrounding stitches, so I've been cutting flush and using a tiny bit of super glue. ed