esantoro

Here are the pics. Ed

Hi Art, I'll try backing off on the presser foot tension, but I think I already have it backed off quite a bit. I was thinking of uploading pics earlier but was lazy. I'll do it a bit later today. I think that perhaps the narrow presser foot is also made out of a lighter metal than is the one you have. Your's looks as if it is made out of tempered steel, as is the original presser foot that came with the machine. Now what I have set up is the original large left presser toe (I had the right side of the original presser foot cut off) with a narrow center walking foot (it's easier than with the original wide center foot to gauge 1/8" from the edge). But to tell the truth, I think the nicest stitching is with the original toe/foot and original wide center foot for the precise reason you mentioned, more weight/mass distributed onto the leather. By the way, Art, what is that silver knobby thing protruding from your lube something that comes standard or something optional? Mine didn't come with it, and when I use the lube pot, The lubricant gets a bit messy. Thanks, again, for the tutorial, Ed

Thanks for this link, Johanna. After looking at the website, I went and bought a box of 3/4" copper rivets from OTB, figuring I could just trim them down to whatever size I need. Ed

I've been having some difficulty getting good-looking stitches when stitching 2 oz suede to the flesh side of 5/6 oz latigo. Top and bottom tension seem to be fine, as neither thread is being pulled to the surface. The top stitches don't seem to lie down nicely. I'm using a size 24 needle and 207 thread. There isn't a problem when I stitch two or more layers of the 5/6 oz latigo, just when I'm stitching the suede lining onto one layer of 5/6 oz. I know that some have said in the past that 207 is too thick a thread for such leather, but this is the size I need when stitching together most of my briefcase parts. I would hate to have to go down to 138 whenever I need to do some of the thinner trim. I may have found the problem but am not sure: Does it seem plausible that a lighter duty, narrower presser foot may be the problem. Today, for the sake of experimentation, I switched to the original much thicker heavy-duty left presser toe that came with the machine, and it seemed to solve all my problems, but I'm not sure why that would make much of a difference. I'll experiment a bit more. Thanks, Ed

I've been having a difficult time finding clamp-on work lamps that work well. I found two fluorescent magnifying lamps that work well, but the ballast on one burned out. Then I found two incandescent work lamps, but the screw-down base is made of cheap plastic, and one is about to fall apart. Does anyone know where I can buy a sturdy metal base, just the base, that I can use to replace the one about to fall apart? Thanks, Ed

Thanks, Peter. Would you say that such rivets make an incredibly strong hold? Stronger than say Jiffy rivets and steel tubular rivets either peened or capped? Are solid brass rivets also installed the same way? Ed

How do you set those copper rivets? I've been looking for sturdier rivets for my leatherwork. I might like to try using hand stitching on the flipflops instead of rivets (I'd use my machine to make the holes). What kind of glue did you use for the soles? Thanks for the pointers. Ed

I love the flip-flops. I've been looking for new things to make. I'd like to do these flip-flops , and moccasins. What kind of rivets did you use? Ed

Other than the carving, it seems as if it would be simple enough to make the basic pattern and somehow figure out how the drawstring is designed" 2 x 3" or 4" wide belts, length of your choosing 2 x front and back panels, decide upon the shape, half or 3/4 circle or oval or whatever. This seems like a nice little bag to make with scrap leather, something for my nieces.

The Mach 1 isn't much like the Artisan 3000. The Mach 1, while a good very basic heavy leather stitcher, does not have reverse (though not really needed), and has only a lower feed dog as the material feeding mechanism. Depending on the actual feed dog used, this can tend to chew up leather quite a bit. That said, I have the same machine but from a different seller. It does a great job of sewing from 69 thread to 415 (though stitch length consistency can be off if you're not careful, due to the lower feed dog as the only feeding mechanism) , which my Juki 441 clone has difficulties doing (but this may be due to my lack of experience). ed

Hi Luke, How long would you say your briefcase took you? I think mine are taking more like 20 hours. Ed

I try to use 5/6 oz, whether chrome or veg or latigo. Above that and I think the case begins to get a bit heavy. Ed

Hi Michael, How well does your PW handle size 138 thread? 207? Thanks, Ed

Able to move around in a small apartment and fold up and store away. It also has to fit into a four-door sedan. Ed

Hi all, Can anyone recommend a good sturdy portable work table, sturdy enough to cut leather on? Thanks, Ed

Nice thread, Regis. I'm also interested in such a machine. I called up a shop in California. They said that the CP206R, while all metal construction, would have some difficulty with 138 thread. However, the rep may have said it could do it once the machine is broken in, though that didn't make much sense to me. If I remember correctly, he also said the presser foot lift is about a half inch. Folks at Sailrite said their machine has 3/8" clearance. Perhaps the CP206R is also 3/8". Ed

Mike, it took me a while but I think I understand your method now. Do you twist the thread twice for every stitch? I'm headin' off to try it out.... Thanks, Ed

Hi John, I think I now understand what you mean by "putting the needles through the loops before pulling tight." In saddlestitching, do you put the needles through the loops on both sides of the hole before pulling tight on every stitch, or just when locking off the stitch? Ed

Many people here are much more knowledgeable than I am, but I really like having both the servo motor and speed reducer. With the servo motor turned low without a reducer, it seems that any machine would suffer a lack of true punching power. Ed

Art, Your cents are their weight in gold and platinum. I hate to fawn, but I am in your debt (and many others here) who have offered such great advice. My set up: Jukki 441 Clone Baby Bull/Mach 1 I love both of these machines. The 441 is reserved for all the leather stitching because of its compound feed mechanism. The Baby Bull is reserved for all the lighter stuff, which is a bit too industrial for. I may be having to move in the next six months, and I was thinking of selling the Baby Bull and getting a portable, which could do the work I'm asking the Baby Bull to do and save a lot of space. I may just go with the Sailrite. I need to call them and ask what the presser foot lift is on it. I'd love to have .5" if possible. The used CP206r is .25". I think a new one is .5" but am not sure. Ed

I was really attracted to the Sailrite and came across this Consew 206R: http://cgi.ebay.com/CONSEW-CP206R-Walking-...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/CONSEW-CP206R-PORTABLE...1QQcmdZViewItem Ed

Art, My grandfather was a tailor/dress maker. I think he gave my sister, who tried her hand at designing for a while and now teaches design, one of these Singer 15s. This is a pretty heavy machine. So far I really like the Pfaff 130. Portable, heavy duty, nearly .5" presser foot lift (no walking foot???). Do you know if the Pfaff 130 will take 138 poly. I'd like to get a portable machine with the capabilities of the 130 but that will sew 69 to 138 thread. As always, thanks for your help and expertise. Ed P.S. I've taken the advice in this thread and have been looking on Craigslist for a portable machine (New York area). CL has some great deals.

Hi Mike, When I back stitch by hand (saddlestitching) I never loop the threads. I just back stitch. For some reason I like the idea of backstitching two or three holes on my backstitching and then putting a pin head's amount of super glue in one of the holes. To me it seems like a worthwhile measure to take to make sure that stitch will hold for a very, very long time. Ed

I have a question about locking off a stitch by backstitching. I was watching a Sailrite video and noticed that the machine operator was locking off a stitch by backspacing maybe five stitches and then forward stitching three stitches. Most of the time I lock off my stitches, I do it by hand, saddlestitching, and do so four or five stitches. Would it be advisable also to forward stitch to or three stitches after backstitching. I like the idea but worry that seams stitched with 138 to 277 thread might appear a bit bulky. I'll do a bit of experimenting. Ed

Hi Art, I just finished looking at the Sailrite webpage. Do you happen to know of anyone who makes a similar portable machine. It seems like the portable Sailrite is exactly what I'm looking for, though a bit pricey. Thanks, Ed