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I'm a bit worried that I'm not lubricating my Super Bull very well. For a while I had been just oiling regularly but got the feeling that that probably wasn't enough. I haven't been able to fiind Balistol anywhere local, so I've been using WD-40 to spray areas that I may be missing with oil. Is it ok to use WD-40 in this manner? Thanks, Ed

I just tried Fiebing's Tanners bond cement (white glue). It works wonderfully. I'm growing rather disappointed with the Duals 88 contact cement, which I thought would bond anything. In addition to bonding heavy denim to the flesh side of veg tanned, I also need to bond two layers of 4oz veg tanned for straps and belts, with stitching down the edges. The Duals 88 doesn't form that strong of a bond. I thought contact cement would hold anything. Does anyone else use the white tanners bond cement and have good experiences with it? It seems that a thin layer of it is all you need to form a firm bond. Ed

I used up my 4 oz bottle of gum trag and recently received a quart of it. There seems to be a difference. The gum trag in the quart bottle appears much more white than what's in the 4 oz bottle. The stuff in the quart bottle also leaves a white residue on the leather, not a clear burnish. Does anyone know what the problem might be? Have you ever heard of this situation? Thanks, Ed

Thanks, Kevin. I called HO and left a message. I also sent an email with attachment to Springfield Leather. I'm also looking for this other type of leather, if anyone has any leads. Thanks, Ed

Steve, Are you using some of the 6oz leather from Keith? Ed

that's funny. I've got about eight side of oil-treated chrome tanned from him. Love the stuff, but have been buying off Ebay and have wondered if he has some other distribution method for first or second quaity sides (without tanning defects, strange coloration, or missing sections). Ed

Any ideas for a source for 5/6 oz leather like this one below (rustic oil-treated chrome tanned)? I've some sides from Siegels. It could work, but not quite. I'd like to use this leather for books and briefcases. Thanks, Ed

Hi Steve. My bags, too, are inspired by simplicity and function. I like the leather you're using. Could you share your supplier? Thanks, Ed

I've been trying to burnish 6 oz veg tanned edges with heavy denim and have noticed that Tandy's plastic burnishing wheel works much better -- except for difficult to reach areas. Is there any special method to be used in burnishing with canvas or denim? Ed

Does anyone know of a good glue for adhering heavy denim to leather? I would like to make a leather briefcase with a denimn lining, but the Duals 88 contact cement I have doesn't seem to work very well. Thanks, Ed

Is Tandy's Pro Dye worth buying. They have a chocolate brown and a few other colors I'd like to try and at a pretty good price? Ed

I've got to experiment more. I started mixing in more dye. Then the mix got too liquidy and not the creaminess that goes on so nicely and smoothly without the streaking. I swabbed the mix on rather gently and have not rubbed it in. I'll try this next. I also tried putting on the die by itself. I certainly prefer the Bick 4 mix. I don't think such a mix would work nearly as well with any of the other more liquidy conditioners. I'm very happy I bought a case of the Bick 4 (to save on overall price and shipping). The chocolate die makes a lot of sense. It is very dark, so you need only a few drops, thus preserving the creaminess of the mix. What other colors can you recommend? I'm beginning to thnk I should just get all the colors that are similar to what I want: dk brown lt brown med brown buckskin mahogony Russet Chocolate lt tan tan Should I throw any of these out, or are there a few that are really very useful? The British is Tan is very useful and I'm glad I have it. Perhaps I should throw out all the light and medium colors, since all I really want to do is mix in with the Bick 4 only a few drops of whatever dye I use to preserve creaminess? I think I know one of your answers: Throw out all the browns and go with a few drops of the chocolate. I do have on hand right now Tandy dark brown all-in-one stain and finish. I'll mix that up and experiment. I Imagine I should stay away from any all-in-one but I'll try it anyway to give me an idea of how dark brown will work out. Thanks Pete, Ed

I also just received some Bick 4 and Fiebings British Tan. Big thanks to Pete for telling us all about it. I've got to experiment more with the dye, different ratios. But right now, the british tan is going on too orangish for my tastes. I think I need something more like a tobacco brown. Ed

I am definitely interested in two one-pound spools. Thanks, Ed

hi david, how many spools are in the case? Ed

Here's a picture of the bag I'm working on that has presented this darkening issue. Ed

I just got some Bick 4 today and did a little emperiment. I did one application of Bick 4 , one of Fiebings 4 Way, and one of Fiebings' neatsfoot oil. The neatsfoot darkened the leather the most. The Bick 4 darkened ( a very light shade) a tad bit more than the 4 Way did, even though the Bick 4 bottle reads that it will not darken leather. I have uploaded an annoted jpeg to illustrate. For those of you not familiar with Bick 4, it's much thicker and creamier than either the 4Way or Lexol. Ed

Have any of you ever heard of Synthetic Thread Co. in Bethlehem, PA? Many of the first spools of thread I bought, I bought inexpensively from Shelton Reynolds, who seems to have gotten it from Synthetic Thread Co. Does anyone know if they are still in business and if the thread is good quality. My limited experience tells me it's good quality. Ed

I'll check my manual, but I've never paid attention to whether the bobbin is inserted a certain way. Should the thread come off clockwise or counter clockwise? Ed

Art, Thanks for this reply and all your replies. They are extremely educational. I think I need to tighten the bobbin tension for the thin leather (the straps wouldn't look right with a lower guage thread), which seems to go against a certain logic. I thought I'd have to tighten tension for thicker leather. Anyway I was told that I would very rarely have to mess with bobbin tension, just the two top tension controls. I backed off the top tension and got exactly what you have written: loose top thread, that isn't "laid down smoothly" and the needle penetrates the thread on subsequent stitches. I've been listening too much to that marketing blurp you've mentioned: "it will sew a dollar bill to doubled saddle skirting without adjustment," and felt that I shouldn't have to adjust the bobbin tension. I've been under the impression, perhaps mistakenly, that once I start adjusting the bobbin tension, it will be difficult to regulate tension consistently. How much of a turn of the bobbin tension screw is enough for noticeable change? full turn? half turn? Is there a method to use to check appropriate tension, or is it just something one can feel and sense over time? I'd like to experimnt but want to be sure that I can return the bobbin tension to its original setting, which works for 80 percent of my needs. For now I'll just remember how many turns of the screw I make clockwse, so I can reverse it later. At any rate, adjusting bobbin tension is something I should start getting more familiar with, so I might as well jump in . Thanks so much again, Art, for your help. Ed

Those of you who use the Ferdco Super Bull, Juki 441, or Artisan 4000, What's the minumum leather thickness you run in the machine? from time to time, I'm trying to use 207 poly thread/ 180 needle to sew a decorative stitch on a bag strap made of one layer of 4/5 oz veg tanned (sometimes with a 2 oz suede backing). The stitch doesn't lay down smoothly. I don't have this problem if I'm using two layers of 4/5 oz veg tan, just with one layer. The obvious problem seems to be thread tension, but I think I've correctly tried all the variables related to tension. I'm wondering if I'm expecting my Super Bull to do something it wasn't intended for. The only thing I haven't tried is to do the same stitch with 138 poly/ 160 needle, the smallest rated for the Super Bull. I have a feeling this will work fine, but I don't really want to use a smaller thread on the straps than I use on the rest of the bag. I will try it anyway just to settle the problem once and for all. Thanks for your help, Ed

Thanks for this great run down of Coats' thread line. Quite frequently on Ebay there is a seller selling ultra dee in 138 black ($12 plus shipping) and other colors in smaller sizes. Now I know to stick with Dabond. Ed

Do any of you have a favorite apron you use for leatherworking, or have you resorted to making your own? Ed

Does the regular Lexol conditioner darken leather, which is what I'd like? Ed

Would I also get darker coloring if I heat the conditioner and use it without any dye? Ed