esantoro

I'd like to start putting a logo in my briefcases. Ideally I would like an oval with some design, a design I have yet to think up. Right now I think it would be enough to get a 1" to 1.25" tall "W" stamp and stamp a leather oval or circle. My first guess would be infinity stamp in California. I think they can do any font I want. Can any of you offer suggestions for what font you think would work well? Thanks, Ed

I would like to add the most heavy-duty portable tabletop to my little studio set up (already have a Baby Bull and Juki 441 clone). What about this Kenmore: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...:MEWA:IT&ih=014 And this Pfaff http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...:MEWA:IT&ih=013 Ed

I've been wanting to as a similar question. What is the best portable walking foot homestyle machine? I've been reading up on the Pfaff 130. Are there others? Ed

Art, Thanks so much for taking the time to check. Ed

Thanks, Art. I need to change the positioning. Ed

This is exactly what I'm shooting for: "It looks like it belongs on the First Class section of the train, too." (sometime in the 19th or 18th century) Thanks, Ed I've got a very, very,very basic website that I need to revise. It's just right now I'd like to try to use my time to make one bag every two days. I think I'm down to no more than 15 hours a bag. Would still like to get it down to eight. Ed www.waldenbags.com (The site has only my old style bag, which I'm no longer interested in making.) I've been wondering the same thing. It seems like an oily chrome veg retanned, which I like to call Latigo. It seems that in the industry you can call leather nearly whatever you want. Ed The two on the bottom at the back are for securing the shoulder strap for use as a backpack strap. Since I had to put two back there, I thought I'd put two up front as well so that you could tie things to the bottom of the bag: sleeping pad, inflatable chair, blanket, grocery bags, water bottles, parkas, etc. Ed One of the main things I'm shooting for in this bag is pure function. Nothing is every merely decorative. All the straps are dual layered (2 x 2mm). Ed

Here's my latest briefcase. Ed

I've been trying to troubleshoot a stitching problem with my Juki 441 clone. I came upon the spacing ring or inner race ring and realized there are rings of differing thickness made. I took out this ring to measure it's thickness (3.51mm). In reassembling the whole race/shuttle assembly I couldn't remember how that inner race ring is to be inserted. Should the side with the beveled edge face outward or inward toward the machine? I think I had been using the machine with that bevel facing outward. Thanks for the help. Ed

I need to make myself and friends some belts. I'm not interested in dyeing the leather, just oiling it and applying some kind of protective sealer. For my briefcases I only condition, oil, and waterproof. What are some of the protective sealers I should use? Super Shene, Neat Lac? Ed

Hi Beez, Again, thank you for turning me on to the drill press. Do you ever have to oil these? Ed

What exactly is latigo? Anything that is veg tanned or veg retanned and then infused with oils? Can chrome tanned leather be processed to be latigo? I'm asking because I'm currently finishing up a briefcase made with leather that I would like to describe as latigo. It seems like a veg tannage of some sort and it certainly has a slight oiled texture to it. Thanks, Ed

I would also be interested in participating in this online gallery/store, whatever it evolves into. I like the thinking on this idea so far. Just to add some thoughts I've had: It would be nice to have theme or style sections. Anyone who makes an item that fits a certain style or theme can list in that section, as well as having an individual gallery. Right now I'm making only my briefcase, perhaps three versions of it. I have ideas for a tote bag, and a more feminine briefcase/satchel. I'm not sure how I would describe the style I'm shooting for: simple western, rugged, journeyman, maverick, trekker, traveller, elegant simplicity, pared down form for function.... I know that some nice additions to this style would be wallets, backpack, playing card holders, business card holders, journals, notebooks, pocketbooks, change holders, keyrings ..... I'm mostly influenced by Ghurkka and Mullholland Brothers, and they both have a full range of accessories. Ed

I'm slowly aspiring for the craftsmanship of Hermes. I don't know how long it would have taken for me to start thinking about experimenting with LR needles. Now I know to give them a look. Even when I bought needles directly from Diamond Needles, they never inquired as to what type of point I needed and just gave me whatever they had. Thanks so much, again, for the heads up. Ed

Hi Art, I also love to know how things work, and certainly appreciate everything you've taught me through this forum. I called around and found #23 Schmetz D (triangular) points at Artisan. Just for the sake of experimentation, I think I'll also buy a spare retaining ring for the shuttle race and experiment with shimming it a smidgen so that I can easily get my machine to work flawlessly with a #23 needle. My Baby Bull/Mach 1 sure is a fun little machine. It really does stitch anything I throw at it. I just wish the feed dog didn't chew up the leather so much. I'm looking at getting a roller foot for this little beauty. Ed P.S. Does anyone have a preference for diamond point needles over the D-triangular point needles? The nomenclature is a bit confusing.

I'd love to see your briefcase. I've also got some diamond tan from Siegel, as well as some crazy horse they had on special. Haven't yet gotten around to using it though. Ed

Well. I just finished using 138 thread in a #24 needle. It was a big improvement, though I wonder if the 24 needle leaves too big a hole in the leather. The shims seem like something I should try with the #23 needle. I also think I should go with the diamond point and not the "S" point. I'll call around tomorrow. Another question that has been nagging me is the bobbin thread tension. What is a good sign that tells you the bobbin tension is too tight? How easy or difficult should it be to pull thread off the bobbin through the needle hole? I've been thinking that if when you go to remove the bobbin and you pull the bobbin thread out through the tension hole in the reverse direction and the thread frays, then the bobbin tension was too tight. Thanks again for all the help, Ed

Bob, I read your post a second time closely. I was thinking the same thing about there being too much tension on the thread once it pierces the leather, not allowing a full loop to form. Though I am using a #23 needle is an "s" designation, narrow crosspoint. I think a diamond point will allow a slightly larger hole, thus allowing a more fully formed loop. I'll try the 138 with a #24 needle. The following intrigues me: "The second possible cause, is the needle height is either too high or too low. When the hook tip passes by the scarf of the needle check to see its position. From it's lowest point, the needle should rise about 1/8" before the hook tip passes by the center of the scarf. Typically, a jammed stitch will force the needle bar up in its holder and the hook tip will then pass right at the eye of the needle, missing the loop and thus the stitch. " I checked this. The needle rises about 1/8" and the tip of the hook is just about to pass into the plane of the needle, a hair's breadth. Thanks for your post. Ed

Thanks for all the fabulous schooling on this topic. I'll call around tomorrow for smaller needles, though I've never had any luck finding 794 system needles smaller than #23. I've been using a #24 for Coats 207 and a #25 for 277 (though don't use this much) I never thought to use a #26. I'll try the lube pot tonight, as well as newer Coats 138. I like the idea of replacing chinese screws with American counterparts. I'll think about this as I begin experimenting with needle bar adjustments. Ed P.S. I put a #24 needle in the machine. The hook slightly skims the needle on the downstroke. The upstroke has a tad less of a skim. Skimming is a smidgen more with the #25. With the #23 there is a very very slight skim on the downstroke and an indecipherable amount of skim (maybe none) on the upstroke. Ferdco's website seems to suggest a #22 for 138 thread, but for the Pro 2000, to which my Chinese clone is similar, it doesn't recommend a top thread lighter than 207 (a #24 needle, which I use, for top and bottom 207). Should my Juki 441 clone even be used for top-thread lighter than 207. Ferdco's website seems to suggest no. I'll give them a call tomorrow.

Great belt. When do you apply the Lexol, before the dye and Satin Shene?

The smallest needle I can get for this machine is 23 (794 system).

I was doing a bit of experimenting today with a 23 needle and 138 thread. My Juki 441 clone was missing too many stitches for me not to be concerned. I could clearly see that the little hoop made with the top thread doesn't flare out enough for the shuttle hook to catch it. Everything is fine with 207 and 277 thread. I'm thinking that there may be a few possible reasons for the skipping. 1. My 138 thread has dried out a bit (don't use it much), so I ought to run it through the lube pot with some Lexol in it. I could also try a different brand of 138 thread. The thread also frayed and broke a few times even with the top tension backed off. 2. The 794 needle I'm using has the "S" designation (narrow cross point) while the larger needles I use are all diamond points, which means the head is a bit wider and possible aids in looping the top thread to be caught by the hook. 3. I have a Chinese Juki 441 clone. Maybe I should buy a Japanese made shuttle hook. Thanks for any suggestions you can offer. Ed

For veg tanned 5 oz and thicker I started gluing with white tanners bond and clamping. No problem on the straightaways, but I still have difficulty on rounded corners. Recently I narrowed the radius of the corners and found stitching even more difficult. I'd like to try a raised needle plate, one for stirrups and one for holsters, which I think will help tremendously. Does anyone have any tips or tricks that would get around having to use these raised needle plates? Ed

This is a great adaptation of my bag and the one that's sold on Ebay. It's enough work for me just to stitch the bag. I can't imagine doing all the artwork. I have hundreds of pictures of my bags and other bags if you want any ideas. I personally don't like all the rivets on the Ebay bag and prefer stitching, but it seems your era's style demands more riveting and less stitching. i can't wait to see your finished bag. I wouldn't worry about the bag not looking good, as you said it's just main panels some gussets and straps. Again, to match the ren style, you should probably use lace instead of stitching, or what about leather ties. ed

I've bought both my machines from Ryan at Neel's saddlery, as well as that splitter. Ryan is great and his equipment is top notch. Even though I love the splitter, it is difficult to skive a 5" by 5" )perhaps i should try skiving a 5" by 25" piece, more leverage and I'd be skiving five pieces at once) piece of chrome tan or veg tan. I've been wondering if a an 8" skiver modeled on the Osborne 84 would do the job. Tandy has them for $299.

It would be a good idea for the leatherworking community to put up its own leatherbag website to challenge the mass produced designer junk. Some retailers have stores where you can buy a range of products from key fobs to briefcases to shoulder bags to coin trays. I have ideas for three versions and sizes of one briefcase, a messenger bag, maybe two purse type bags for women, and that's about it. I don't have any ideas or desire to create a range of products beyond that. What if we could start a leatherworker.net online store. we would then have a large range of products, and leatherworkers might be interested in moving toward or be influenced by certain designs, so that a certain style could be built up around certain products. This could be something that evolves gradually.