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I have the 25/64 bit for the hole but I've been having some trouble finding a 7/16-20 tap to prep the threaded hole for the Ferdco thread wipers. ANy suggestions for a source? On a related note, though ferdco's wipers are engineered very nicely, we should have a contest for the best improvised thread wiper. Bruce's sponge is awesome, and does make changing thread very easy. It got me to thinking about what other types of wipers are possible. Ed

Pete, I've had this exact same problem with the TLF rotary punch. HAve you ever tried returning it on the lifetime warranty? Ed

I found this very same tool the other day at Sears, where it was marketed by Empire...$5.00. Certainly good to have on hand, even though the $30-$40 specialized tool may be without peer. Ed

Hi Bruce, I just got my needle plates in today: stirrup, holster, and flat slotted. Do you have to change the constant height of the presser foot when changing from a raised needle plate to a flat plate, or have you found a happy medium? HAve you also been able to use the roller guide with the raised plates? I think I've already asked you this and you said that you don't use a guide but just go slowly and follow your stitch line. I'm thinking of getting some spacers and longer screws to raise the roller guide 1/8" to 1/4" if needed. By the way, do you know of a good source for screws for the needle plates and the roller guide? Rather than post a new topic, I'll give a run down of all my questions and concerns regarding these plates : 1. They are made of stainless steel, instead of the steel (attracted to a magnet) used in the nylon plate that came standard with the machine. 2. It seems that these plates are all made from similar molds (and made in China?), but is there a reason that everyone seems to be leaving out the lube hole on the stirrup plate? 3. The flat/low profile feed dog/needle guide necessary for these needle plates just barely skims the underside of the flat slotted plate and the stirrup plate. Should I ignore this, or should I start getting more familiar with my Dremel? 4. It seems that a bit of grinding might be necessary on the far right side of the flat slotted plate, so that it can be positioned in a way that the needle will enter the slot as much as possible in the center of the slot and not more towards the right edge. There's no real worry of screwing anything up because the screw holes allow for some repositioning of the plate. 5. Though not of tremendous importance, I'd like to pick up some bolts that fit more flushly in the screw holes in these plates. Ryan Neel and Neel's Saddlery in Ohio has always been very helpful. I bought these plates from him for $100 apiece. Ed

Hi, Does anyone know where I can buy one of these standard cast iron lube pots for the 441 that doesn't come with the thread wipers. Soon I will be trying my hand at drilling and tapping the one I have to install a thread wiper but want a backup just in case I screw it up. Right now I'm using Bruce's idea of a little sponge cube atop the pot, which works marvelously. Until I get a backup pot, I'm not going to tempt fate. Besides, I'm having some difficulty locating a 7/16-20 tap. Ed

Those of you who have oval maker's stamps, do you by chance also have oval punches to punch them out? Siegel's end of year sale has a two inch round punch for a very good price. I'd love to find that same width in an oval punch. Ed

Hi Tony, Those are great prices. I thought they were going to be priced outrageously. I don't have a Weaver catalog. Do you by chance have the measurements for each of those spacers? I don't want to order the spacer I already have. And these spacers are for the Juki clones and not the adlers? Or does it matter. Thanks again for this info, as I had been wondering where I was going to get these. Ed

Hi Tony, Do you have any idea how much these spacers run for the 441? Thanks, Ed

I just had to copy and Paste some of the "Things I have learned" from other posts that really resonate with my own experience: No matter what angle you twist yourself into, the light is never right. After two hours of precision work...then you make your mistake. Never work on leather when you're tired. When hand stitching, your thread will always be too short!!!!!! Your sewing machine will always screw up half way through you project. Every project cost more for materials than you thought it would. Keep you fingers away from the bobbin on cylinder bed sewing machines!!!!!!! Good parts organization is the only way you will keep track of how much you have.

I had heard a while ago that the adlers have or once had more of a problem being used with a range of thread thicknesses, that one would have to install an appropriately sized spacer -- which keeps the needle the correct distance from the hook -- when changing needles sizes. Even the 441 manual includes mention of such spacers. I've been meaning to locate a couple of these spacers for when I want to use a #23 needle on my 441. I've also been looking unsuccessfully for thin copper shim stock that would allow me to adjust the spacing easily without having to pay for actual spacers. Ed

Luke, that's a nice machine. I'm a year or two away from realistically considering a second big machine, but I thought I'd start early doing the research and looking around. Your machine and the 441 use the same needle system, right? ed

Though it is some time off before I'll have two cylinder arm machines, I was wondering how the stitch quality of the Adler clones compare to that of the juki 441 clones. Ed

Every day I realize more and more the need to have additional machines. Someday, the toro 3000 will be a nice addition. Do the 3000 and 4000 p both handle various needle sizes and thread in the same manner, and their only real differences being arm length? Ed

Art, I have just now understood this old post of yours, due to some experimentation the past few days. The toes on my narrow harness makers foot make contact with the flat needle plate; whereas the toes on the standard blanket foot, which allows for problem-free stitches, that came with the machine do not touch the plate. The result is that unless the leather is thick and somewhat firm, the narrow harness foot that I have will pose some problems. My guess is that perhaps due to the low position of the toes on the harness foot, there is too much pressure on the leather, especially thinner, softer leather. The fix: make sure presser foot tension is backed off quite a bit when using the harness foot. I'll now go and experiment more. Ed

Bruce, I read on ron's tool's website that he sells an edging/burnishing compound. Ed

Bruce and Art, I noticed that the toes on the blanket foot do not touch the needle plate at any time, though the middle walking foot does. With my narrow harness makers foot, both the toes and the center foot do touch the needle plate. Do you have the same experience with your equipment? Ed

Bruce, I have Ryan Neel's (Neel's Saddlery) Model 6. The pics are of two layers of 5/7 oz Indian Tan Latigo. I'm using the standard blanket foot that the machine came with. Perhaps I should be backing off on the presser foot tension. I also am using the standard needle plate with the extreuding feed dog, which does leave light tracks. In a day or two, I should be receiving the slotted needle plate and the stirrup plate. I'm wondering if I'll need to adjust the presser foot height when I start using the raised needle plate. The problem is that I'll need to switch quite frequently between the stirrup plate for gusset work and the flat slotted plate for flat work (belts, lining, trim). I'm beginning to think about how nice it would be to have an additional machine, something like the Toro 3000...Yes.....That would be nice. Someday.... Ed

here's stitching from a juki 441 clone, 277 thread, #25 Schmetz serv 1 point. ed

I love the tools on Ron's website and that he includes a thin rod for sharpening, but I keep thinking that for the price I could buy 10 tandy edgers and experiment with grinding off the toes. I have realized that rounding the edges is extremely important on my bags, so maybe I'll just take the plunge. Thanks, ed

I just got off the phone with my cc bank. I filed a claim and put in an order with ultimate sew and vac in New Jersey. It's costing me $70 more than the specbrands deal but I shouldn't get the runaround.

Anyone know what happened to specBrands. I rodered a portable walking foot machine from them at the end of October. I have yet to receive it, and now their phones lines are disconnected and their website has been pulled down. Ed

I'd like to hear more about using a dremel to sharpen these edgers and know which attachments to use. Ed

I've been using the tandy edgers, the rounded ones and the flat cutting ones. the flat cutters work nicely when joining a bag face edge with a gusset edge . together the result is a nicely rounded burnished edge. IO'm trying to use the tandy edgers to get better at sharpening them. I'd like to try the osbourne rounded edgers but am unsure which ones those are. hidecrafters has two types of osborne edgers: the best quality edger, and the common edger. Ed

Since the start of this thread, I've been using the saddle soap and like it a lot. I just now ordered white saddle soap, as the yellow soap does stain a bit certain leathers. So far, saddle soap seems to be a good choice for some chrome tanned leathers, while gum trag seems to work better on veg tan and bridle leather, though i really haven't experimented enough to be sure. Ed

What is the diameter of those sharpening system wheels from Weaver and hidecrafters? If they are 8" I should go with the 8" grinder form harbor freight.