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esantoro

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Everything posted by esantoro

  1. This American & Efird isn't doing it. It's too fuzzy. I got some chestnut in from The Thread Exchange, 207 and 277 supposedly Eddington, and US thread in 346. It's all good quality but different shades of chestnut. I'll post pics later, but would any of you sew with different shades of top and bottom chestnut, or is it not a big deal? By the way, this A&E thread is bonded Anefil Poly, if that suggests any reason for the thread's fuzziness. I've got to call Ferdco tomorrow. Thanks, Ed
  2. I was figuring on skiving 5/6 oz and thicker veg tan down to 3/4 oz if necessary. I was thinking I'd put down a rubber mat onto a 2" x 12" piece of wood, which will sit atop my 12 sq. inch marble slab. Here is an old Mulholland Brothers stamp that gave me the original idea:
  3. here's some very basic brainstorming: Does anyone know what type of font would be of a classic British style. I think I've decided on a punch size: 3/16" wider circumference than the single border on the 2" oval stamp that Jeff Mosby makes.
  4. There seem to be plenty of companies marketing their versions of a Hermes' Birkin bag. Who knows, maybe Hermes was "inspired" by another company's bag. Ed
  5. Regis, I'll let you know what I turn up in the way of additional presser feet. ed
  6. Hi Regis, I can't imagine being able to stitch thicker than that. Is it possible on these machines to raise the height of the inner and outer presser feet? Ed
  7. Hi Art, For my setup it's nice to have this small portable for stitching/prepping the suede pockets for my bags without having to recalibrate from 277 or 346 thread in my big stitcher down to 138 thread simply to roll the edge of the suede pockets. I can pull the portable out and put it just about anywhere, and then shove it back. Sailrite may not pretend for the Ultrafeed to be a 111, but they nearly charge the same, at least for the ultrafeed LZ1. Ed
  8. I think I got my wish for a machine to learn how to rebuild. Sailrite has some pretty informative DVDs and instruction manuals for rebuilding their entire machine, which in many ways seems to be a mini version of the heavy stitchers. ed
  9. I've ordered the Monster Wheel from Ultimate Sew and Vac in New Jersey. Their ability to actually get certain items seems spotty, so I may have to end up buying elsewhere, as I did with the case. After reading up more on the sailrite, I really get the feeling that these machines are all very , very similar when they have the accessories added. The sailrite has the patented posi pin clutch assembly, which is a moot point if you upgrade to the Monster II wheel, which uses allen set screws. The case is wonderful, like an electric guitar case for my machine. The race, hook, and bobbin case on this yamata seem to be very good quality. 138 thread and two layers of 5/6 does seem to be the limit. I still need to get diamond point needles. Does anyone know what kind of a foot pedal would be good for an upgrade? Ed
  10. Not sure yet what to think about this machine. I still have to get properly sized leather point needles to work with the 138 poly thread I've put in the machine, but I'm not impressed just playing around with it with a 130 fabric needle installed. I expected the machine to be more powerful, but maybe I need the Monster II power wheel for that power. Would a better foot pedal help at all? I think what came stock is a carbon something or other pedal. ed
  11. Should I also account for gravitational pull and altitutde? Seriously, I read or heard somewhere that because of the way the thread is twisted winding one direction or the other affects how the thread will come off the bottom. One direction will allow the thread to fall off the bobbin too easily rather than staying wound. I haven't really noticed any difference but it sounded as if it made sense. ed
  12. Bruce, If you wind by hand or by drill, do you have to make sure the bobbin spins clockwise or counterclockwise? ed
  13. I finally got my portable zig zag walking foot machine, which I'll be using for denim, suede and lighter leather and 138 thread and lighter (curious to see what this machine will do with 207 thread). I went with the less expensive yamata $300 shipped rather than the Sailrite. With the money I saved, I bought sailrite's awesome case for about $100. Now that I have this machine I'm very curious to know what the Sailrite looks like inside. I'll post pics soon of my yamata. If anyone has a sailrite ultrafeed, could you post some pics of the inner and under workings? I was wondering if there is something people put down underneath the machine and inside the portable case to absorb machine oil. For right now, I have put down kraft paper. ed
  14. thanks for the nudging. I'll try to get a vector diagram up this weekend.
  15. Anyone have particular tricks or methods for reading/viewing stitches. I keep a mirror handy, so I can periodically see how the bobbin thread is lying down. I'm currently redoing a strap where the top thread was being pulled all the way to the bottom and visible. How often do you check the the lay of the bobbin thread. On this one particular strap, I had forgotten to check. No I'm redoing by hand cranking and checking every six inches or so. This is on two layers of 5/7 latigo. I don't think there would be too much of an issue with thicker leather. ed (who's thinking out loud again)
  16. I've been thinking and doodling. I think a double border on the stamp in addition to perimeter stitching will create too many borders. Perhaps the stitching of the brand in place should be the only border. ed
  17. I was thinking that if the thread is not wound on the bobbin in a consistent fashion, the thread would not pull of the bobbin in a consistent manner. Lately, I've had a few bobbin threads snag on the bobbin spool itself, nothing else. I attributed it to my hand or drill winding: too tight , not tight enough. ed
  18. Sorry. A little to quick on the read and the reply. Thanks for checking on this, Bill. Ed
  19. I just realized that I should get a heavier mallet for the punching out of the ovals and the stamping.Is a two pounder enough, or should I go heavier? ed
  20. Hi Daryl, In 2008, things would be pretty good if I could get 10 bags a month made. Six is very doable and on the agenda. So , right now, I would need six a month. ed
  21. I'm going for something like this from Papworth ed
  22. Another nice thing is that Texas Custom Dies will make the punch to your EXACT specification. I guess you would have to send a vector file. ed
  23. I'm in the process of getting everything together for a 2" wide oval stamp with an outer border to stamp oval leather disks that will be stitched into the interior of my bags. I'll be getting my stamp from grey ghost graphics. The company is Walden Bags and the motto is something like "simplicity, simplicity, simplicity" or "Simplicity Through Elegance" or "Elegant Simplicity." Perhaps in Latin. Not sure I want to include anything like this in the stamp at all, but just thought I'd throw it out there. I've had three ideas for the stamp: 1. WALDEN in caps, centered and a bold outline font. I'll post the exact font later. 2. WALDEN, as in #1 above, perhaps a bit smaller sized font. Underneath WALDEN will be BAGS in caps, much smaller font and a non-outlined font 3. Either of the two above but with one of the mottoes running along the stamps border. 4. This one is in addition to something from above but smaller than a 2" stamp. Some kind of arrangement of W and B, with or without one of the mottoes. I'll try to draw up an illustration later, once I get all my graphics programs reinstalled in my computer, which, by the way, headed south around the same time of the famed Leatherworker.net crash of 2008. Thanks for any suggestions, ed P.S. Another idea for a motto, which I got from Antique Road show where someone brought in an 18th century or earlier chair with the marking to the effect of "I Gave It My Best". I wouldn't put something like this in English, but what about Latin?
  24. esantoro

    $500 to spend

    You have to get the Al Stohlman Three volumes on cases. You also have to get Valerie Michael's The Leather Working Handbook. Also indispensable is Al Stohlman's book on the use and care of leatherworking tools. I am always referencing these books. ed
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