mdv99
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Posts posted by mdv99
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I don't know how they compare to others, but Buckleguy has bulk pricing.
https://www.buckleguy.com/search.php?search_query="chicago screws"§ion=product
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On 10/25/2019 at 4:39 PM, DebSweet said:Hi. I'm looking for a 1/4" or so thick strap that is about 1" wide, finished on both sides and about 5' long. This would be for a dog leash for a serious puller. (She's a recent rescue who is just learning her manners and oh my is she stubborn.
Where would I order such a thing, please?
Thank you!
Check this company out California Collar Co., they make really nice leather collars and leashes.
Depending on the size of the dog, if they really pull you should consider getting a collar like this Herm Sprenger Training Collar. In spite of the appearance, the "spikes" are dull and painless and it's really effective for controlling large dogs.
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1 hour ago, ensitmike said:MDV, thanks so much for the input! That is close, I'll have to look them up and maybe stop by.
That said, have you checked out the New-Tech link I posted? It's $900! I am really considering it and that company is also in L.A. The biggest thing is quality control, which I'm not sure about, but I've found that so many of these machines are actually getting cranked out of the same factory. This goes for other industries as well. Even things like the REX servo motors vs the FamilySew... its all the same stuff. If not the same factory, almost always the same components. I'm hoping Wiz has some insight about these house brands like New-Tech. If I stop by in person to check the machine out I'll let you know what I think.
I have read reviews that the people who own Goldstar don't take care of their customers, but I might be willing to take the risk for the price and just own the possibility I may have to wrench on it to get it perfect.
I guess it depends on your risk tolerance and available free time, in this case I have neither.
I can't find the post now, but I read something from Uwe Grosse that said (I'm paraphrasing), all things being equal, he recommended buying close to home if possible because support is so critical to the operation of industrial sewing machines. In the post he suggested two LA distributors; Atlas Levy and Alberoni. (Atlas Levy has a less expensive option that you may want to look at.) In my case I decided on the Cobra because the manufacturer is relatively close, they have a great reputation, and the brand is more recognizable if I want to resale it someday.
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QuoteAfter looking around I ended up finding this https://www.goldstartool.com/new-tech-gc-8b-cylindrical-bed-compound-feed-lockstitch-industrial-sewing-machine-with-table-and-servo-motor.htm which looks to be the same machine. I know for a fact TechSew has better service, but will this machine be functionally the same? I found a post in the search on this site that says this is a house clone of a seiko for GoldStar. In your extensive experience, will this be just as good a machine as a TechSew? It is substantially cheaper.
For what it's worth... I've been doing a lot research on various cylinder arm machines and was leaning towards the Techsew 2700 too. I have their SK-4 Skiver and have no complaints with their service. Ultimately I've decided to get the Cobra Class 26 because it's a similar machine and the Leather Machine Company has a great reputation too ('Cobra Steve' is a frequent poster on Leatherworker.net).
From what I see their are a lot of great machines and distributors who advertise and contribute on this site, but for me the tie breaker is that (like you) I'm located in Los Angeles which means I can drive the the Leather Machine Company (it's about an hour outside of LA) and pick-up up the machine directly. Not only does it save the cost of shipping, by picking it up you insure it won't get damaged in shipping.
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There's some good information in this video Weaver Leathercraft: Sharpening 7 Basic Shop Tools
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Weaver Leather recently started selling "Pattern Sheet" plastic for making templates.
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Quote8 hours ago, kiwican said:Those look great! I've never used a maul. What advantage is there over a mallet?
Depending on the size of the maul, it brings a lot more weight to bear at impact. For example, if you're driving a pricking iron through 6+ mm of leather you will have a much harder time doing it with a mallet. I rarely pick up a mallet since getting a maul.
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Have you looked at Vinymo MBT #8?
Nigel Armitage did a review of their thread and (if I recall correctly) mentioned he was considering it specifically because Ritza was discontinuing their .4 thread.
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Really nice, best crutch accessory I've ever seen.
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30 minutes ago, NewfoundlandLaw said:Bottom line is, what's the best press?
Tandy (https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-hand-press)
Buckleguy (https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-setter-hand-foot-press-requires-setter-die-w-screw-1/)
Weaver (https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65-6650/master-tools-little-wonder-/pr_30070)
Check eBay if you're go with the Weaver press, sometimes you can pick one up for less than the list price.
The real expense are the press dies you'll need for each size of rivet, snap, etc... you'll want to use. For the Tandy those run from $50 - $90 for each set.
One other consideration, in one of Ian Atkinson's videos he mentions the Weaver double-cap rivets (maybe snaps?) don't work as well with his Tandy dies and speculates they may just be slightly different sizes. So you may want to get the press from whomever you expect to buy most of your supplies. I have the Tandy press and have been happy with it, but I have nothing else to compare it to.
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4 hours ago, klutes said:Can someone direct me to a good pattern for a fanny leather pack. Looking for something like the photos.
Fanny Pack pattern on Etsy...
https://www.etsy.com/listing/683480494/fanny-pack-pattern-with-instructionbuild?ref=shop_home_feat_1
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1 hour ago, TargetRockLeather said:That came out really great. Can you post a picture of the bottle with needle so I know what I'm looking for? I've used the fine paint brush with acrylic paint option which works ok but not nearly as nice as yours. This is how mine came out:
District Leather Supply sells them...
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Have you looked at Vinymo? They have a lot of colors including Burgundy.
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On 8/11/2019 at 11:21 AM, hashtagartz said:I would love to know where I can buy those bottle with the paint tip that you use on the letters.... Please!
Rocky Mountain Leather Supply sells them...
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QuoteWe had no orders from the USA and Canada at all. And any sales on Etsy.
Can you provide a link to your Etsy store?
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Very impressive. I like the way the embossed letters get painted.
Stupid question... how do the locker straps get affixed to the lockers?
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For belts you want a "bench splitter"-- you can get one on eBay for approx $160. I have one and as far as I can tell it's the same one Tandy sells for $399.00. I assume they're all from China.
Edge skiving depends a lot on the thickness of the leather and how much skiving you're going to do. If you're taking 7-8 oz leather down to 2-3oz, it's not too bad. If you're making wallets and trying to skive 2-3 oz down to 1oz with a soft leather it can be really challenging. Without access to a Bell Skiver ($1,400+) the least expensive way is to get a good knife.
Tandy has a number of skiving tools.
https://www.tandyleather.com/en/search/?sSearch=skiving
I've had pretty good success with the "Safety Beveler" (and plenty of fresh razor blades), but there are a number of tools for skiving and which one works the best depends a lot on what you're trying to do.
One trick I didn't learn until after wasting a lot of leather, whatever tool you're using for skiving, make sure you're on a very hard surface (like granite). If there's any "give" in the surface below the leather it makes skiving thin leathers more difficult.
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Today I made a belt from a pre-cut strap of Hermann Oak bridle leather and used Fiebings Low VOC 'Dark Brown' Dye (I'm in California) to dye the edges. I also burnished the edges with water and Tokonole.
After completing the belt I put it on (I really need a new belt) but within a 15 mins I felt a rash developing around my waist. I'm wearing an untucked t-shirt, so the belt was making contact with my skin. I guess it's possible there's something in the Hermann Oak leather that could cause the reaction, but of the ingredients I added, the Fiebings Low VOC seems to be the likely cause. And now that I think about it, it caused my eyes to water the other day when I used the dye on something else.
My skin is unusually sensitive to foreign materials, for example I can't wear anything on my wrist without eventually getting a rash, but this was an immediate and pretty severe reaction (inflammation and redness). Has anyone else ran into this?
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Great write up. I may have to start with the miniature paper version.
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Not videos, but Ron from Techsew did an 'Ask Me Anythings' on Reddit a few years ago and it has some good information...
clogging punches
in Leather Tools
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If you're doing a lot of work requiring a punch, you might want to invest in a couple of Sinabroks Stitching Punches, they look like they should automatically feed the punched pieces out the side.