Leatherimages
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Posts posted by Leatherimages
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I have always thought, somebody should be ashamed of themselves for this kind of thing happening again and again in their patterns.
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Chris,
Besides the obvious toe to heel length, to which you'd want to add a good bit for 1st yr. growth, you'd also want a width circumference + at the ball.
And because the child probably won't be able to cooperate and point the toe, you'd also want a generous heel measurement. This would be taken from the back point of the heel, around instep and back again.
Here is a measuring diagram for a big person's foot with fit points delineated. I am referring to fit points #1 and #5.
Sorry I can't be more help right now.
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HELP! I'm in desparate need of three sides of Horweens Waxed Flesh in Natural.
I had eight pcs. set aside, and now the last three are no longer avilable to me. I won't go into the problem with ya'll.
Now I learn Horween is closing down for the summer, so I have to turn to the "network" to have a chance at meeting my deadline of Sept. 1st.
So I'm hoping one of you fine folks has three sides in your inventory that you'd sell me, or front me, until Horween is back up. Whatever it takes at this point.
If so, could you please pm me at paul@noazleatherworks.com or call 928 442-1213?
Thank you in advance,
Paul
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Measureing from where the tongue intersects with the buckle will give you an entire circumfrence.
Measureing from the heel bar of the bukle, or the fold of the belt, will short you by the difference.
I've found it's wise to add a bit for the thickness of the belt, if it's significant.
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When I have applied neatsfoot oil after dying I have noticed some white crud on the surface. Ususally it can be buffed away, but now I have a belt where it just keeps coming back. What is the solution? More oil? wipe down with water? Is this something coming out of the leather or the dry surface of the leather itself?
Without knowing more about the leather it's hard to say, but it could be "spue", which is like a tallow or something in the tanning process.
Try a hair dryer.
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I went and talked to him and he said the heel supports? ( The cardboard type piece inside) was all bent and they were not salvageable. He said that even if he attempted to do it and spent 100 dollars they'd never feel the same and that I was better off buying new ones. He's been doing it for 30 yrs so I trust his judgement even if I hate it. Feels like losing a best friend. Thank you for your help just the same.
This sounds like what I would have told you.
These kind of boots should be sold as unrepairable, aka disposable.
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I can't speak for saddle leather, but I've used it on boot leathers for many years.
Just a caution; don't choose baby powder with starch around wet leather.
Remember the paste from our kindergarten days?
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PMZ,
I don't know if my answer will address your question, but here are two techniques that might help.
First is simply a Silver Ink Economy Pen from Fisher Space Pens. You can buy them on line for cheap. I ususally get a half dozen and share them with leather friends.
The advantage is the silver ink is visible to follow when cutting, and it will erase, sometimes with just your thumb, other times with a very damp rag.
I even will spit on my thumb and erase when the mood strikes me.
I think with deer, you'd want to remove it right away, seems it is a little more difficult if you leave it.
The other method is to lay your pattern on your material, and dust around the edges with a bag of talcum powder. An old sock would work.
I strongly recommend not using baby powder with starch combined with the talcum. It will make a paste that can stick when it makes contact with moisture.
Hope that helps.
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Kevin,
Good Choice. If you use them in 3 months, you're good.
I'd suggest just one 15 unless you have "that style" in your area, or your own closet.
7, 9 and 11 will be the sizes you'd use most often.
You could avoid the expense of a strip at first by just getting several pair of quality 12 and 15 iron toplifts. Usually 13/14 is the smallest.
If you wanted to avoid a strip of mid soleing, as often is seen with glued on heels, you could just get a couple of pair of rubber midsoles.
They're usually something like 4 iron and 6 iron. You could get 2 or 3 pair for heels changes , per pair w/o the expence.
A soleing bend is good of course, maybe too good. See if you can get a butt, it's usually cheaper by the pound.
Keystone Leather Co. has heel lifts precut in different sizes for quanties.
The shop is doing good. Come down for a visit.
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Oops, I just saw that I didn't label the sizes.
Across the top are 5, 7, and 9.
The bottom row are 11, 13, and 15.
BTW, some Ropers, one used to be able to safely say all, use a half heel.
The measuring system for that type of heel is a whole 'nuther kettle of fish.
They run from 10-11, 11-12, 12-13, 13-14. I don't think I've ever even seen any larger than that.
Half heels are generally washerless, using an auto nailer, a coil nail machine.
Vibram is the only brand I care for with washer type half heels.
As to ordering half heels without a size reference, you might get lucky and get a salesman who will take the measurement of your heel base and help you with the correct size.
Welcome to confusion. If you're looking for logical standardized references, good luck.
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Kevin,
Attached please find a chart I put together for you, outlining several CB heels, in an attempt to answer your sizing question.
Some of the figures may be hard to read. Let me know if you need any clarification.
CB heels are solid rubber with washers to cinch the heads of the nails (known as Rubber Heel Nails ) tightly to the heel base.
In days gone by, for factory heels bases, if even if just the last layer was leather, these nails were sufficient to hold the rubber heels on, maybe with a thin coat of glue for a sealed edge.
Nowadays, with Robus and other "particle leather" ground to bits and glued together as a layer of "leather", the strip is more often used for replacement. Sometimes with a 12 iron(1/4") lift and 6 iron mid layer, the Hardened Thread Nails are more appropriate. I usually use a 6/8 length.
The heels used for this photo were what I could grab quickly. Different brands will have slightly different measures.
Which is better is a question with a relative answer, CB heels with washers usually have a higher abrasion level, but worse come to worse, you may have to replace the entire heel base with genuine leather.
But the Threaded nails hold pretty good.
Good Luck,
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It is a shame these guys don't know squat about video production. They get a friend who maybe does wedding videos or worse yet try and do it themselves. No runthrough to give the cameraman any idea of what is going to happen just shoot once and let the camera cover it the best it can. If they would demand the same quality of video that they demand of their boots, it would be nice. Well, rant off. I still liked the video. It makes the book a hell of a lot clearer.
Squat? Do you have any idea how many years DW works on his tutorials before he puts them out?
Tne clarity of the text, backed up by the phone support, far outweigh the video production.
Old time value that proceeds and superceeds, the MTV Generation.
A little more respect is due a Master Craftsman and Teacher.
Rant Reply Off.
Paul H. Krause
BootMaker
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Every cent.
What's more, the follow up by phone is always available.
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Mike,
We figured out how to get the video on Youtube, but when I tried to post it here, it didn't want to attach properly.
Still workin' it.
Paul
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Well Mike I did not know that would be required.
It was not my intention that one should have to do anything.
However I find myself at one of those crossroads, where I would have to devote more attention than comes naturally for me, to figure it out.
My computer is not loaded with the necessary whatnot. Therefore I find myself at a disadvantage, if you know what I mean.
Consequently I will have to get back with you.
Or it could be that one of lovely web mistresses. Or one of their able and equally geekish assistants, might be willing to join in the conversation and explain what to do to make it happen for you. No doubt there are others who share your delema.
Let's just leave it out there and see what pops it's head up, ok?
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I recently moved my business back into town (Prescott,Arizona) with an assistant, and wanted to get the word out.
I've been interviewed on the local station (AZ-TV Channel 7 Cable 13) a couple of times previously, and thought it was a good chance to get some publicity about the move if I could appear on the show again.
I asked and was invited to be on a couple of days later.
Johanna has graciously offered to put the 9:11 minute video up for me. (Thank you)
Enjoy.
See Paul's video here!
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You do know Stohlman teaches how in his belt book, don't you?
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Hi John,
I'd be willing to help out in your quest. With 25 yrs of shoe repair experience, where I nearly saw it all,
and for the last 15+yrs. custom making any and everything, I would feel pretty confident being able to care for your work here in the SouthWest.
I am current in, what I hope will be, the last week of moving my shop back into town,
where I will be custom making boots and other leather goods, and offering repairs on quality leather items.
PK BootMaker's Northern Arizona LeatherWorks.
156 So. Montezuma Studio E, Prescott AZ. 86303
928 442-1213
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Worth considering. PM me.
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I have put initials on the billet end of the belt. Maybe if the name is short enough this is another choice.
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Very good choice. On many levels.
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Very nice. I'm diggin' this one.
Good on you.
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I'll be number four. Welcome Jock.
I'm sure there are many others who are also glad to see anouther individual on the site.
Strength in numbers.
Cigar Case Help
in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
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To separate individual compartments for cigars, you might try a U shaped yoke to create creased sections, and "clip" it over the case with dowels as fillers for the space.
ie. You would need two U shaped "clips" to creat three compartments.