Hardrada

Not sure it's the best method, but it's what I've been thinking about throughout the day since it's quite likely I also have to undo stitches on a project of mine:

I'm thinking that if you cut them open you can line up the holes again using the pricking iron you used to make them. You'd probably get glue on the iron but if it's water-based adhesive maybe it'll be easier to clean.

Worst kind of accident: the one that happens when you're almost done. Whilst marking the line for the stitches, the dividers jumped and landed on the acrylic window for this wallet: Not just a scratch but an actual cut: it went through the plastic. Is there a way to fix this that doesn't require remaking the entire panel? Yea, I went and made worse by proceeding with stitching the edge band and locking the blunder in, but at the time I felt fixing the boo-boo would require remaking the whole thing and I thought it best to give a discount for the blem. Now, I'm not happy with delivering this as it is. Any suggestions? TIA for any helpful input.

No, it's been inside a cabinet all these years. That too, you know, I got this paint anywhere between 8 to 6 years ago. Yes, I share your opinion. The Fiebing's Edge Kote seems to still be workable—longer shelf life it seems—but shark doesn't seem to take too kindly to edgers and the pain runs into the "channels" in the leather's grain.

Well, I haven't been doing much leatherwork lately, but this month I had to make a bag and to my dismay I found my Uniters paint in a sorry state: thin liquid with lotsa curd-like semisolid blobs in it. I tried stirring it vigorously but could not melt them clots back into liquid form. Applying whatever is still liquid in there to an edge takes forever to dry. Is there a way to reconstitute this paint or is it dumpster material? I really need to finish this bag and can't wait for two weeks for new edge paint to get here.

Thanks, mates. The bone folder and a recreasing did the trick.

As you can see, if I were to trim the end would be pretty much next to the hole—it'd probably look worse than the blemish: In non-raking light, it's not too obvious, but it's still there:

I went askew with the electric creaser when creasing a belt and was hoping the final length would be short of that blemish, but alas, it was within an inch of the tip. Is there a way to smooth out that blemish or make it disappear? I'd really not want to cut the billet any shorter. Thanks in advance for any helpful input.

These are used on wood, but it's still steel and it's still round, so, it may help:

Yes, I know pics help—was gonna post some last night when I made the post only to find out my camera's battery was drained. Here's the issue: This is the molded spectacle case. I decided to mold "in reverse" as I wanted to avoid dying and also to have the outer surface be chevre which is more scratch resistant: And, this is what happens when I try to put the 1.5oz chevre over the molded leather: Those pleats... argh!

Ahoi, Is there an ideal way to apply a cover of thin chevre leather over a wet moulded pouch? I'm particularly interested in how to deal with the pleats that form whenever I attempt to stretch the chevre over the bulgy round end. I guess I could cut the leather, but then I wouldn't have a smooth finish and it'd look real terrible. Any ideas or should I start over, maybe this time gluing the chevre over the veg tan first? TIA

Don't use spirits-based dye: as it says, it is PENETRATING and it'll run off your edge into the adjacent portions of the leather, ruining the project. Edge dyes (i.e. Fiebing's Edge Kote) are polymer-based dyes that will coalesce on the edge and remain there till wear and tear removes them or you sand/rub them off.

Neat work! I've always wondered how is it possible that knives with hooks like that skinner don't get caugh in the sheath when pulled out. Obviously, they don't. Amazing.

For thick layers a solution is to cut a strip of leather 1/2" wider than the total thickness and stitch it in as edge cover.