Hardrada

I found 3 oz to be too thick for wallets. You'll need to skive it. See for yourself: the wallet on the left is a prototype, so please ignore it; the one on the right was made with RML's Badalassi Minerva, 3 oz. You can see how thick it is with four layers: it's basically 12 oz: not easy to punch holes through. Next time, I'm thinking of ordering the same leather but split to 2 oz or even 1.5 oz. The good thing about RML is that they will split to your desired weight for free.

For far Eastern, stick with goodsjapan.com. Do not buy Chinese: it's crap. I can see a bit of a point behind the logic of not wanting to invest heavily when you're either starting out or trying it out to see if you like it, but having a tool break right off the bat is utterly frustrating and can actually steer you away from the craft. goodsjapan.com has both good prices and good stuff that is made in Japan. I got a couple of Seiwa chisels from them and now I regret I didn't get the 3 mm ones from them too: they're very good quality. I'm about to order from them again, this time a Japanese-style skiving knife, a diamond awl, and the famous Tokonole burnishing agent. Personally, I'd stay away from starter kits: in addition to poor quality if they're made in China, they come with a number of tools you'll probably never use. I did buy a sewing kit from Tandy (OK quality) and the pricking wheel sits forgotten in the case: I don't use it.

Aye, you could, but it might be awkward. Up to you. In a pinch, any pointy (but not very sharp) thing would do: say, a straightened paper clip or something from the kitchen. Some leathers mark easier than others. I've worked with the Badalassi Minerva veg tan from RML and I have to be extra careful as even my very short nails can mark it. English kip or chrome tan deerskin, I really have to press on the awl to mark it well enough. Hehehe, the mention of the fork reminded me of this one video: Look, Ma: no tools!

Alright, took some photos of the problem: This is how the leather gets all bent out of shape: Very inconsistent thickness: I thought of thinning this wallet, as I was using four layers of 3 oz. leather and the thickness was making punching stitching holes a chore (they'd come misaligned on the bottom). I also thought that maybe the wallet would look nicer with thinner edges—now I'm not so sure. The one on the left is a test I made with scrap leather—which was also a PITA to skive and got all bent out of shape (I had to trim it again using the patters after skiving: it was that bad).

Thanks for all the replies, mates. Are these the Sorrel skiving knives: Skiving knives ? There's another kind on her site too: flexible skiving knives. I'll try uploading pictures of my current messes shortly.

Hi, Tyra, If I were attempting that project this is what I'd use: Kyoshin Elle chisels: get the 3 mm version: a 2-prong, and a 6-prong should be the best options if you're not buying the whole set. KS diamond awl: the small one matches the 3 mm chisels. Economy poly mallet: should be an OK mallet. KS Pro Edger: get either the #1 or #2. You might find edgers cheaper elsewhere but these come with a rod and two sheets of sharpening paper already. Ritza "Tiger" thread: excellent German-made thread: very strong and comes already waxed—but not overwaxed like one I got from Tandy that waxed the heck out of my hands. Choose whichever colour best matches the leather you choose. Needles: I use #4 because I mostly work with very fine thread (Tiger 0.6 mm), and because I like to save on thread (although once I took to piercing the thread BEFORE passing it through the needle's eye, the length of the needle no longer matters; thus, you could get #2 or #0). A scratch awl (alas, the cheapest that Rocky Mountain Leather carries is about 8 times more expensive than the basic model Tandy sells, which is all you'd need—so much for my shopping list that was meant to save you money on shipping and handling). Wing dividers to mark your stitch line (sadly, Rocky Mountain Leather is all out of the economy version, but these should be OK. Leather to your taste. RML carries all kinds of types and colours, they sell it by the square foot, and they'll split it to your preferred weight for free—what's not to like? (NO, I don't work for them, LOL).

Any helpful tips on how to achieve as consisting a skive as possible? I've used both a skife and a French beveler, but the thickness is all over the place and the French thing pulls the leather and deforms it like a piece of rubber. I've yet to buy a half-moon knife, but I was thinking of buying one of these in the meanwhile: C.S. Osborne leather knife or one of these instead. Would those make the process less messy and inconsistent?

Moisture is an issue if the gun will be stored in the scabbard (which it shouldn't in the first place). For transport it shouldn't be a problem.