Hardrada

Interesting. In case I can't find Farnam's in Canada, is there any difference between the yellow and the white saddle soap from Fiebing's? This is probably a stupid question, but for peace of mind, neither the soap nor the Aussie will lift colour from the leather, right? When I've used Leather Balm I've noticed the towel I use to wipe off the excess gets a stain the colour of whichever leather I'm treating.

Is it mandatory to use Fiebing's Saddle Soap prior to Aussie, as it says in their instructions, for brand new leather? It's already clean, innit?

Excellent! Thanks! Yes, this leather (Heritage) looks basically finished. I applied Leather Balm, Carnauba Cream, and Aussie to patches and it didn't seem to me to make a noticeable difference. If Aussie is the way to go, then I'm set!

Oh man, don't even get me started about the Canadian BullShit Agency...

What's best to use for stuff like Chromexcel and Heritage leathers? For veg-tan I've been using Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax, but I'm unsure what to use on these chrome tanned leathers. Any ideas? TIA

The main issue I've found is that no single supplier carries everything you may need, which requires ordering from multiple sources with the subsequent drain on your pocket: the only ones happy about this are the courier companies.

These are the suppliers that I've used so far: In Canada: https://www.lonsdaleleather.com/ — I've bought leather and tools and supplies from them. They're in Vancouver and they ship by post, so transit times are slow (~1 week to Regina). https://www.longviewleather.com/ — Bought tools from them only. They're in Alta., so the ETA is within 3 days. Tandy, of course, but I haven't been happy with their leather either. I was satisfied with the chrome-free pig lining and suede, but not with how they packed them (they folded them. Yeah, atrocious I know, I wasn't impressed). In the US: https://www.rmleathersupply.com/ — I've been buying most of my leather from them. Also purchased tools and supplies. Transit times can be slow (unless you pay for faster options, which can get expensive—it all depends on how quickly you need the goods). For small parcels, I've paid no duties. https://www.buckleguy.com/ — Purchased W&C English bridle and hardware. Not impressed with their hardware being made in China; so, other than leather, I think the only hardware I'll buy from then from now on are their Riri zippers which are made in Italy and/or their CS Osborne tools. Also, in Canada (but I've not purchased anything from them so I can't tell you about them from personal experience): https://www.buckskinleather.com/ — They're based out of Alta. but have branches elsewhere. They do not have an online shop, so you'll have to phone them (which might be a better option, actually).

Awesome find! Thanks for posting.

Superb!

I'd still refrain.

Are you so pressed for time that you can't order a diamond awl? https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/pricking-irons-chisels-awls/products/kyoshin-elle-diamond-awls

Check these out before deciding: Sorry, posted the review for the 86 (still worth watching, though). Here's the one for the 86A:

Something like this might make it easier to punch those holes on projects such as these: https://www.goodsjapan.com/leathercraft-pricking-iron-leather-stitching-chisel-leather-nippers-2x3mm/a-19392

Neat-O.

Yeah, three different fonts is a no-no. By now, any feedback is a moot point, what with the stamp cast and all.

Here, with examples: Thread and SPI's Also, I'd head over to Rocky Mountain Leather Supply and order their sample cards: Tiger Thread samples Fil au Chinois samples These cards come with all the colours available and, most importantly, samples of the different thicknesses they're offered in.

Here: Goods Japan stitching chisels and nippers They sell the kind of nippers fredk mentioned: these are very useful when you need to punch holes on the edge of leather that's been folded 90°, such as when you're doing three-piece cut edged gussets.

Like Jo from JH Leather, Terrick stitches using an awl: that's the traditional method, because back then the stitch holes used to be marked (pricked) with a pricking iron but actually pierced with a diamond awl. You don't need an awl if you punch your leather with stitching punches, like many of us do: this latter method is easier. Note that you might still need to use an awl if you're stitching thick leather or several layers that amount to a total weight greater than ~8 oz. When you have several layers, it's not difficult to punch the holes slanted no matter how perfectly straight your marked line is. If you're using a light mallet like the yellow poly mallet from Tandy, you will require several whacks to pierce thick leather or several layers and the chances of having this problem will increase. I strongly recommend that you get a 24- or 32-ounce poly mallet from Brarry King: less whacks and less bounce. RE: chisels: you can get top quality brand new chisels from goodsjapan.com. I'd recommend the Seiwa diamond chisels: two sets: one 2-prong and one 5-prong of each 3 mm and 4 mm distance between tips. Whilst you're at it, grab a Kyoshin Elle or Craftsha diamond awl that comes sharper than Tandy's.

Tandy is all over the place. Some of their stuff, such as their Craftool Pro punches, is made in Taiwan, which is good, whereas other items are made in China which should say enough about what you can expect in terms of quality. Now, there's some Chinese stuff that is relatively decent, but it won't be the cheapest priced, obviously. We do get what we pay for. BuckleGuy, for instance, has most of their hardware manufactured in China: I ordered two different kinds of buckles from them: the ~$1.04 buckle is garbage: you can bend the prong with your fingers effortlessly, but their $1.78 buckle is solid enough. Weaver's tools, the ones made in the USA are very good. I just got one of their Mastercraft oblong punches to replace the crap one I got from Tandy, and I'm impressed: sharp, perfect shape, and it punches through 9 oz English bridle easily. Of course, Tandy's junk punch is $13, versus $86 for the Weaver. Again, we get what we pay for. I didn't 'save' $73 when I bought Tandy's economy punch: I LOST $13! The time spent fixing the twisted shape with a clickers knife should be chalked up as a loss too. If you have a Tandy store nearby you can physically visit, do go there and check out their tools. Check the labels to see their provenance; weigh them in your hand; see how sharp they are; &c. If your only choice is to buy online, then avoid the 'economy' tools and save money by choosing the 'pro' ones. Other tools that are good: C. S. Osborne (although there are reports that they've been cutting corners too, but what I've got from them is good); Kyoshin Elle and Seiwa (you can get them at Rocky Mountain Leather Supply or at goodsjapan.com); Barry King (their mallets are a must, skip the Tandy mallets).

Not true at all. China has been consistently flooding the market with garbage and they will continue to do so as long as there are people willing to 'save' money buying such rubbish. Even Tandy has quite a number of Chinese-made items and a number of them are utter garbage. Case in point: their economy Craftool oblong punches. I bought one: it's an ABJECT PIECE OF CRAP! Can I say that louder? Flimsy thing, bent so that the shape isn't regular but bean-shaped, won't punch through 9 oz English bridle cleanly and without about a dozen whacks of a heavy mallet (wanna have fun? Try punching a hole with that using Tandy's yellow poly mallet)... I could go on, but the point is made: there are plenty is a mega-surplus of garbage tools out there, just waiting for the 'budget-minded' poor sap to buy them—buy them many times over.

An arbor press.

It's probably been suggested above (too lazy now to scroll up or turn to the previous page), but I never burnish with water prior to dyeing edges: it's my belief (maybe wrong, who knows) that by flattening the fibres the penetration of the dye is reduced. I've not gotten bad results so far dyeing with fuzzy fibres, so I'm sticking to my process.

We probably bought the same kit or similar: mine was their stitching kit. Yes, I don't use the pricking wheel, have bought a sharper awl and ended up using the scratching awl tip for dyeing edges, the thread was useful for test projects but I still have most of it as I now use Tiger. I'm still using the needles and the groover, although I use the latter not for marking lines but for gouging channels for bending the leather 90°. You really save more buying things separately. Another good place to get tools is goodsjapan.com. Their Seiwa and Kyoshin Elle chisels and edgers are top notch (plus, the KE edgers come with a sharpening rod and papers), and they supply Tokonole. RM Leather Supply stocks some of Kyoshin Elle products and they carry Tokonole too, but if you can't find stuff at RML, do go to goodsjapan.com

What I took from him on that video, added to what I had learnt from books and other sources consolidated my edge finishing process to this: Trim or glass to make joined edges even. (I don't like sanding them because they mushroom, and also because I don't like using machines. I was using a Dremel, but the results were unsatisfactory to my liking.) Apply Edge Kote. Let dry (about 30 min). Sand with 400 grit with a light touch in one direction only. Apply second coat of Edge Kote. Let dry. Seal: with Tokonole. Slick. I tried using wax, but the slicker was getting too greasy. I tried to burnish with denim but the fibres from it were being left on the edge and it was a pain to remove them, so I gave up. I used to use gum tragacanth, and for the English bridle belts I made a solution of white school glue and water (as per suggestion by one of the members here) because I was afraid of the Edge Kote rubbing off and ruining somebody's dress garments; but once I got the Tokonole and saw that it has consistency not unlike white glue, that's all I've been using. I wanna get ahold of some brown and black Tokonole. Also, sometimes I don't apply Edge Kote at all, but leave them edges natural and just burnish with Tokonole. Again, I was applying wax after the Tokonole, but stopped for reasons explained above. When I get to order some canvas, I want to try the wax again. I was using beeswax, but I wanna buy and try some of the Columbus wax RM Leather supply sells—it's supposedly superior to regular beeswax. Oh, by the way, I was really concerned about the edge coating rubbing off, so I went to a local shoe repair shop and asked the guy there about it. I asked him if it would be better to use regular dye, or the Fiebing's Pro dye instead of Edge Kote to prevent this problem, and he said that really, Edge Kote is the most versatile thing to use for edges, and that rubbing off shouldn't be a problem. He said that even though that meant I put back the bottles of dye I had grabbed from the counter with the intent of purchasing them: if he was willing to lose the sale, I assumed he was telling me the truth.

Wow! Can't say I've had that ever happen to me. Maybe the Edge Kote they sell in Bayern is different? I've adapted my process after this guy's (he does use wax, though—I don't): Sorry my process didn't work for you. Honestly, I dunno why. I've been applying Tokonole to the Edge Kote-painted edge within 20-30 minutes of applying the second coat (it seems to dry fast) and burnishing and my wood slicker isn't even black yet. I get nothing on my fingers either. Weird.