Hardrada

What I've done with mine is to make them two-piece. The cobra head that never changes in size, and the adjustable strap portion that can be cut to different sizes—then you'll really have plenty strap for adjustment. Even so, the stitching is not easy due to a very, very long thread (formula: thread needed = distance to stitch * 4).

Danne, you have to stop posting your work! I get depressed by excellence because it reminds me of how much I suck. You're gonna be responsible for me quitting leatherwork and tossing all my expensive tools in the garbage! Do you really want that on your conscience?? (Being arch, as usual. Post away, mate! That card holder is quite similar to my Oselvar™ wallet, 'cept I go for curves and don't line it. Guess I should start lining them now. )

Kyoshin Elle for the edger. Get it at goodsjapan.com.

I just toss them in a repurposed canned food tin. I wash them with water after use in an effort to extend their life: they'll last for more than 2 applications, but will eventually become saturated with hardened paint and become useless.

I kept hearing great things about John James, so I ordered a pack. I was extremely disappointed when I got them and saw the Made in China label. I guess I'll order C. S. Osborne next time.

If that's the Chartermade knife you have as a model there, be aware that it's patented, so make sure to modify your own design so that it doesn't look the same.

Good thing it's only 'a few'. I'm with jcuk there. Myself, I've got only one round knife, a Japanese skiving knife, a Japanese curved skiving knife, and a clicker knife. Plus an Exacto and an Olfa L-5. The round knife is the most versatile.

Is this helpful?

Or suede.

These: https://www.danswhetstone.com/product/bench-stones/ A soft Arkansas (medium) and a hard Arkansas (fine). Finish with a strop and green compound.

You wouldn't have to happen a picture of one of these do you? I'm having the same problem but I don't want surgery.

You missed the index numbers for the countours. That's one heck of a piece. Very original idea and excellent execution. A belt I woulda loved to wear myself when I was teaching the introductory geography labs at my varsity. Good job!

Tiger 0.6 mm. SPI depends on the project. 2 mm is too tight, if you ask me, even for small goods like watch bands. You might need to use Fil au Chinois 632 or even 832 with those chisels you got. (https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/thread-sewing) Check out this reference: https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/leatherguide.htm#stitching Ghostery prevents me from accessing your link, but my emphatic advice is that you don't waste your money on crap. Whenever I hear 'cheap import' it usually means Chinese-made by the lowest bidder—actually, scratch bidder, because the junk is so terrible that they didn't even qualify to bid. If you want inexpensive and still good quality and reliable, get yourself a pair of Seiwa chisels from goodsjapan.com: https://www.goodsjapan.com/seiwa-diamond-leather-stitching-chisel-leathercraft-pricking-iron-tool-2x3mm/a-19396 https://www.goodsjapan.com/seiwa-diamond-leather-stitching-chisel-leathercraft-pricking-iron-tool-6x3mm/a-20901 That's what I have for my 4 mm spacing: a two-prong and a 6-prong: they do the job flawlessly.

Totally agree. I failed miserably with that approach, though. I made a template from 3 oz English bridle and still got the holes crooked. These punches have no indexes, and at such diameters are very difficult to align properly. Suggetions are appreciated.

The converse is also true. I once had a client who commissioned a belt for a buckle he had had made years ago: He wanted Chicago screws as fasteners for the buckle/loop and OVAL holes. The prong on the buckle, however, was totally cylindrical and it was way loose with oval holes. So, I ended up punching round holes in the end and they were a snug fit.

Thanks for the reference. I'll keep an eye out for them next time I'm there; should be better than the crafts felt you get at Waldo-Mart.

How thin are those edges, Artourious? I've been tempted to buy those dense spongey bits at Superstore's make-up aisle. Maybe they'll work better than other applicators? I've not had much luck with felt (it sheds lint) or the small wool daubers: the paint smears beyond the edges onto the project's surface and it can be a pain to clean it off. Best resuts I've gotten have been with an awl, really. Tedious, I know, but less messy. ADDENDUM: You know, I've also gotten good results with a paddle: https://tandyleather.ca/collections/supplies/products/craftool-stainless-steel-edge-paddle I mostly use the rough side of that paddle.

Eventually you'll have to sharpen it, and then you can fix that issue with your stone.

It can be frustrating, specially with round blades. A necessary hassle, though; and with the right tools/stones, it can even be enjoyable.

Can latigo be wet moulded?

Seiwa: the convergence of economy and quality: https://www.goodsjapan.com/seiwa-diamond-leather-stitching-chisel-leathercraft-pricking-iron-tool-6x4mm/a-19162

Well, it was the one from Tandy, so I guess that sums it up. I used to use a Bic lighter but I had to wipe the soot off with a heavy cloth before applying it to the leather. Quite a pain, which is why I got the spirit lamp, which I also use to heat up my brass stamps now (I used to use an iron upside down and place the stamps on it for ~40 seconds). I ordered another Tandy creaser and still use the spirit lamp, but I'm extra careful now that it only stays no more than 15 seconds under the flame (that one time I left it there for close to a minute or more: can't remember—all I remember is that I heard dripping and when I looked I saw big drops of melted steel dripping onto the lamp).

Probably a heat gun is the answer. With a spirit lamp you can get the creaser so hot that it will melt.

Happens on all leathers. I'm puzzled like heck as well. I watched Renia's demo video and got a 4 oz bottle from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. Well, it doesn't behave like anything in the video, even though I apply it like they do in there. No permanent bond at all. Either I got a dud or, and I strongly suspect this might be the cause, it was frozen in transit and ruined. It works OK as a temporary glue to hold pieces together whilst punching holes/stitching, but not for permanent bonds. Maybe I should reorder some during the summer and try again.

I'd rather use contact cement. Haven't had good luck with water-based glue (Aquilim 315): over time it dries and the 'glued' parts come apart. In France it wouldn't be difficult to buy some Renia Colle de Cologne: very good contact cement and you can use it to glue more than just leather: think about fabric for linings or plastic pieces. I've seen some leatherworkers use Hirschkleber. Always wanted to try that one, but haven't had a chance to get ahold of some.