Hardrada

This should provide you with some pointers to get you started: https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/toolset.htm I'd recommend buying tools individually rather than in 'kits'. When I've bought kits I've ended paying for stuff I never use. My suggestion would be to watch videos on how what you want to make is made and buy whatever tools they're using. For instance, for belts, I'd buy a good half-moon knife, a draught gauge, edgers, Japanese style skiving knife (you can also skive with the half-moon knife, of course), assorted hole punches, oval hole punch for the billet holes, stitching chisels (2-prong and 5-prong), stitching pony, and stitching needles. A couple of end punches (round and English point) and a cocobolo wood slicker should round it pretty nicely. I'd not waste money on stuff that's needed to make things you're not interested in, like women's bags.

Ohh! Gotcha. Then you should be OK. FWIW, I'd still buy a wooden slicker to get the feel of it, then you can move onto your machine and keep the slicker as a backup. I got one of these: http://www.proedgeburnishers.com/hand-burnishers.html Again, results will depend on the leather. Some leathers, like chrome tan, are just not burnishable, all you can do is paint the edges or fold them.

Machines like the Regad and Summit are meant to be used or at least give best results with heatable paint like Verniss or Uniters, in some cases followed by wax. They're not really meant to work with Tokonole, gum trag, or, I'd say, Edge Kote. Still, you may want to experiment with heat settings. They change based on the leather:

Does this help any? https://www.closetcorepatterns.com/sewalong/sewing-gusseted-pockets-kelly-anorak-sewalong/ It's for sewing, but garment grade leather should be pliable like fabric, methinks. My winter jacket's pockets are simpler: square, cargo style, with a gusset of 1.25", similar to this:

Define 'cold'. Cold temperatures require dressing in layers, so there's no need to make it extra thick, IMO, as the wearer will have to be wearing a vest or a sweater under the jacket anyway if it's really cold. If it's autumny, a thick jacket is gonna be a hindrance.

I've not made any toby pouches yet because I've been wondering whether the leather will infuse odd flavours to the tobacco or contaminate it in some way due to the additives or finishes in the leather. I'd probably not use chrome tanned leather for a pouch, though I do have a chrome tan sock for one of my churchwardens. I guess lining the pouch with food-grade plastic material would address the issues of tobacco contamination and freshness, but I never got around to order such material. Doesn't affect me, as I pack my pipe at home before going out, but at one time I wanted to sell pouches to other smokers.

That's what I use. Mine came with a hole already bored in the ram and a retention screw, BUT inserting the setter into it won't hold it at a right angle and will press the snaps skewed towards one side, cutting the leather and ruining the project. I've been using rare earth magnets to hold the setter into place but the magnets get crushed and destroyed eventually. So, careful. You might be luckier with setting parts made for presses, though.

What paraffin wax are you guys using? Is it the same kind that's used for candles? I'm trying to find the right kind/brand in Canada.

Directly from Fiebing's? https://fiebing.com/product/carnauba-cream/ RML sells it too but they're currently sold out.

Those books should get you started. I don't think you need to saturate yourself with more reference materials at this time. I haven't read Mr. Armitage's book but I have Ms. Michael's and Ms. Erhardt's books: the one is about traditional methods (i.e. hand stitching), and the other is geared towards machine sewing (though one could also stitch by hand) and it comes with all the patterns for all the projects depicted there, which is a bonus. Michael's book also has 'patterns' but they're more like reference schematics on the book itself and you'd have to draw them by hand by yourself. Leather is expensive. I've been ordering from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply (RML) because they split to any weight I want or need. I've also purchased from Lonsdale Leather in Vancouver but they don't offer splitting and their weights can sometimes be thicker than I'd like.

Never lived in the time nor the place where that was common. It just seemed odd to me to have such valuable item held on only by means of friction (I'm nervous about those bushcraft-style knife sheaths too), but then again, I betcha folks carrying them strapless weren't somersaulting either. I think it's a neat holster; I was just curious.

No securing strap?

I'm also interested in this, as I haven't been able to use/apply it successfully either. Last time I tried, I rubbed some beeswax on a portion of a sling edge and burnished with canvas: 'twas the first time it seemed to apply well. Whenever I try burnishing wax with a slicker it just doesn't work.

I use a piece of leather as cushion too, but it's way larger and it has a rough surface. Glue your pieces prior to punching the holes, and then make sure your chisel is perfectly perpendicular. However, when trying to punch through thick layers, say a final thickness of >6 oz, I angle my chisel a wee bit so that the prongs point towards the edge and the head inwards, for I've found that thicker layers tend to pull the prongs away from the edge on the bottom side. You need to gauge how much tilt by experimentation and experience. Try it on scraps. Another thing I do is to mark the leather first with the chisel as if it were a pricking iron; if I'm happy with the position of the marks, then I punch the holes, otherwise adjust as needed, and then punch the holes.

Neat. I was wondering because at one time I wanted to get a small steel plate for my arbour press and the prices seemed rather high. Then again, I'm not in the USA. Maybe it's too big?

They also have those rollers: https://www.buckleguy.com/leather-edge-paint/ They're designed for paint, though, so I'm not sure how effective they'd be to apply burnishing compound which is more viscous than edge coats.

Edge coat and burnishing compound should take care of that. Another alternative is to do a folded edge or to cut a strip of leather, split it to ~1 oz and stitch it in place, over the edges.

How much was the metal?

What's the problem of using one's fingers? You get more control over the amount and extent that's applied that way. When you've trained your fingers to a given process you can make it as fast or faster than a machine. As for industrial scale production, I don't think they use Tokonole. @RockyAussie has a manufactory. Maybe he'll pop by and tell us how he does his edges on large scale production. PS: Why, even at Hermes they still apply edge paint by hand with awls:

The Japanese style knife is not quite as her preferred, angled knife in video #2, but it can be angled to use it in a similar manner.

I got one of those and is it ever a pain to use! Plus, the blades go dull very quickly, so in the long run it's a more expensive solution than one of the Japanese knives, which can be honed and stropped again and again and again and again.

I ordered a 50x16-inch piece from RML. $19 USD, so yeah, about $30 CAD. I ordered leather and Tokonole and Columbus wax as well, though, so as to make the $40 shipping cost worth my while. Since I'm thinking of using it for small goods, I think such a metre-long patch should suffice. If you PM me your address I can send you a small sample, if you want, that way you can take a look and see if buying the 4-metre, 50 square feet roll would be a good decision, based on the kind of projects you make.

I watched Ian Atkinson use fabric to line a wallet once: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4meaY6lWOMw Seems to me it's regular fabric. In terms of lining, it seems counterintuitive (maybe even counterproductive) to me to use leather to line a project made of non-leather material. But using fabric to line leather products is standard practice. There's this book on bags: https://www.amazon.ca/Leather-Bags-Stylish-Designs-Occasion/dp/1454710624 Mrs. Erhardt uses fabric and faux leather as both liner and main-body construction materials. Good examples and techniques there, and if you're using a machine to stitch, that book might be worth a look. From what I've seen , the liner does not necessarily have to be glued: in many bags the fabric liner is held in place by means of the stitching, but it's otherwise 'floating' inside the leather body. Another thing that can be done with fabric is to make zippered pockets for leather projects.

That is the correct definition. @Simmental: as suggested, use an awl. You don't mention what hardware you have, but if what you have is "pricking irons" you have to use an awl anyway as you're not supposed to use them to punch holes in the leather (although good quality irons can do this on small weight [~1-2 oz] leathers). If what you have are chisels, then you can punch holes on the leather as they're meant to; you just won't be able to penetrate all layers—no problem, punch as much as you are able without making big holes (say, punch only through the first layer) and then use an awl to finish making the holes: set the project over a cork board and insert the awl using the small holes as guide, just make sure your awl is perfectly perpendicular, so that your holes are lined up on the other side. It'll be tedious work, but it's about the only way to do it right. If you find yourself having to stitch thick layers all the time, it'd be best to get some KS Blade chisels: they're very sharp and can go through thicker layers than the chisels you get from Tandy or Seiwa.

A true friend of latigo, eh? I've been using latigo for slings lately and have been doing the Edge Kote + Tokonole (1 layer) drill. I admit the edges could look better.