Hardrada

That it is. Actually, I stopped using it because I couldn't find a thinner for it. I tried the domestic thinner but it didn't really work well (please note that I'm no glue expert nor chemist), hence I changed to the local glue.

I've seen a boot maker and another leather worker use Hirschkleber. https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/hirschkleber-craft-paste/ Can you get that in the UK? Myself, I use contact cement: a Barge alternative made in Canada. I've also used Renia Colle de Cologne: it's good—another contact cement. Now the issue with contact cements is the fumes: you need a well ventilated area to use them, specially if you're applying them to large areas. I don't mind the fumes, but even I have ended up with a sore throat and a headache after long applications. Water-based glues don't have this problem, but they can't be shipped in the wintertime: if they freeze they are ruined. Renia has a water-based cement called Aquilim 315. I'm told it's very good and bonds permanently instantly, but my bottle was shipped during wintertime and I guess it froze or kinda froze in transit because the glue doesn't bond permanently.

For your intended purposes: #0 & #1 (later on you can add a #2 if you're working with heavy leathers). Good quality and affordable: https://www.goodsjapan.com/leather-craft-items/general-leather-tools/kyoshin-elle-leathercraft-deluxe-leather-edge-beveller-sharpener-0-6mm-edger-0/a-20564 https://www.goodsjapan.com/leather-craft-items/general-leather-tools/kyoshin-elle-leathercraft-deluxe-leather-edge-beveller-sharpener-0-8mm-edger-1/a-20469

You shouldn't skimp on any of them! KS Blade chisels, FTW. For wallets I'd go with the 3.38 mm ones. They're not cheap. If you don't feel like making such an investment right now, I'd go with the Seiwa chisels, from goodsjapan.com. They're not fancy looking, but don't be fooled: they're very good quality and are good for starters and are so sturdy that you can keep them as back-up when you migrate to the KS Blade chisels. I'd advise not to use pricking irons and awl if you're just starting: stitching with these takes lots of practice to get right. For wallets and bags you won't be going through several layers of heavy leather, and thus the chisels will be best. Still, do get yourself a diamond awl from goodsjapan.com too, I'd suggest the Kyoshin Elle: comes quite sharp right off the bat. At times, you might indeed end up with a certain thickness that will require the chisels to begin the holes, and the awl to finish them.

This should provide you with some pointers to get you started: https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/toolset.htm I'd recommend buying tools individually rather than in 'kits'. When I've bought kits I've ended paying for stuff I never use. My suggestion would be to watch videos on how what you want to make is made and buy whatever tools they're using. For instance, for belts, I'd buy a good half-moon knife, a draught gauge, edgers, Japanese style skiving knife (you can also skive with the half-moon knife, of course), assorted hole punches, oval hole punch for the billet holes, stitching chisels (2-prong and 5-prong), stitching pony, and stitching needles. A couple of end punches (round and English point) and a cocobolo wood slicker should round it pretty nicely. I'd not waste money on stuff that's needed to make things you're not interested in, like women's bags.

Ohh! Gotcha. Then you should be OK. FWIW, I'd still buy a wooden slicker to get the feel of it, then you can move onto your machine and keep the slicker as a backup. I got one of these: http://www.proedgeburnishers.com/hand-burnishers.html Again, results will depend on the leather. Some leathers, like chrome tan, are just not burnishable, all you can do is paint the edges or fold them.

Machines like the Regad and Summit are meant to be used or at least give best results with heatable paint like Verniss or Uniters, in some cases followed by wax. They're not really meant to work with Tokonole, gum trag, or, I'd say, Edge Kote. Still, you may want to experiment with heat settings. They change based on the leather:

Does this help any? https://www.closetcorepatterns.com/sewalong/sewing-gusseted-pockets-kelly-anorak-sewalong/ It's for sewing, but garment grade leather should be pliable like fabric, methinks. My winter jacket's pockets are simpler: square, cargo style, with a gusset of 1.25", similar to this:

Define 'cold'. Cold temperatures require dressing in layers, so there's no need to make it extra thick, IMO, as the wearer will have to be wearing a vest or a sweater under the jacket anyway if it's really cold. If it's autumny, a thick jacket is gonna be a hindrance.

I've not made any toby pouches yet because I've been wondering whether the leather will infuse odd flavours to the tobacco or contaminate it in some way due to the additives or finishes in the leather. I'd probably not use chrome tanned leather for a pouch, though I do have a chrome tan sock for one of my churchwardens. I guess lining the pouch with food-grade plastic material would address the issues of tobacco contamination and freshness, but I never got around to order such material. Doesn't affect me, as I pack my pipe at home before going out, but at one time I wanted to sell pouches to other smokers.

That's what I use. Mine came with a hole already bored in the ram and a retention screw, BUT inserting the setter into it won't hold it at a right angle and will press the snaps skewed towards one side, cutting the leather and ruining the project. I've been using rare earth magnets to hold the setter into place but the magnets get crushed and destroyed eventually. So, careful. You might be luckier with setting parts made for presses, though.

What paraffin wax are you guys using? Is it the same kind that's used for candles? I'm trying to find the right kind/brand in Canada.

Directly from Fiebing's? https://fiebing.com/product/carnauba-cream/ RML sells it too but they're currently sold out.

Those books should get you started. I don't think you need to saturate yourself with more reference materials at this time. I haven't read Mr. Armitage's book but I have Ms. Michael's and Ms. Erhardt's books: the one is about traditional methods (i.e. hand stitching), and the other is geared towards machine sewing (though one could also stitch by hand) and it comes with all the patterns for all the projects depicted there, which is a bonus. Michael's book also has 'patterns' but they're more like reference schematics on the book itself and you'd have to draw them by hand by yourself. Leather is expensive. I've been ordering from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply (RML) because they split to any weight I want or need. I've also purchased from Lonsdale Leather in Vancouver but they don't offer splitting and their weights can sometimes be thicker than I'd like.

Never lived in the time nor the place where that was common. It just seemed odd to me to have such valuable item held on only by means of friction (I'm nervous about those bushcraft-style knife sheaths too), but then again, I betcha folks carrying them strapless weren't somersaulting either. I think it's a neat holster; I was just curious.

No securing strap?

I'm also interested in this, as I haven't been able to use/apply it successfully either. Last time I tried, I rubbed some beeswax on a portion of a sling edge and burnished with canvas: 'twas the first time it seemed to apply well. Whenever I try burnishing wax with a slicker it just doesn't work.

I use a piece of leather as cushion too, but it's way larger and it has a rough surface. Glue your pieces prior to punching the holes, and then make sure your chisel is perfectly perpendicular. However, when trying to punch through thick layers, say a final thickness of >6 oz, I angle my chisel a wee bit so that the prongs point towards the edge and the head inwards, for I've found that thicker layers tend to pull the prongs away from the edge on the bottom side. You need to gauge how much tilt by experimentation and experience. Try it on scraps. Another thing I do is to mark the leather first with the chisel as if it were a pricking iron; if I'm happy with the position of the marks, then I punch the holes, otherwise adjust as needed, and then punch the holes.

Neat. I was wondering because at one time I wanted to get a small steel plate for my arbour press and the prices seemed rather high. Then again, I'm not in the USA. Maybe it's too big?

They also have those rollers: https://www.buckleguy.com/leather-edge-paint/ They're designed for paint, though, so I'm not sure how effective they'd be to apply burnishing compound which is more viscous than edge coats.

Edge coat and burnishing compound should take care of that. Another alternative is to do a folded edge or to cut a strip of leather, split it to ~1 oz and stitch it in place, over the edges.

How much was the metal?

What's the problem of using one's fingers? You get more control over the amount and extent that's applied that way. When you've trained your fingers to a given process you can make it as fast or faster than a machine. As for industrial scale production, I don't think they use Tokonole. @RockyAussie has a manufactory. Maybe he'll pop by and tell us how he does his edges on large scale production. PS: Why, even at Hermes they still apply edge paint by hand with awls:

The Japanese style knife is not quite as her preferred, angled knife in video #2, but it can be angled to use it in a similar manner.

I got one of those and is it ever a pain to use! Plus, the blades go dull very quickly, so in the long run it's a more expensive solution than one of the Japanese knives, which can be honed and stropped again and again and again and again.