Hardrada

Rocky Mountain Leather Supply sells micro-suede, from Luigi Carnevalli, which is "non-woven fabric made from a much finer fibre than basic microfibre and therefore showing a softer and rounder hand". Maybe that'll do for your linings? Carnevalli also makes nylon fabric specifically for lining: http://www.carnevali.it/en/products/ https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/luigi-carnevali-micro-suede-lining?variant=15313367040109 I've been lining with suede or very thin (1 oz) leather, so far. But I just ordered some of that LC micro-suede to try out—of course, I won't be able to report back on it for at least a couple of weeks, since the order was just placed yesterday.

Three layers?? Is that to get that mirror-like shine?

Veeery carefully, dip your finger pad into it so as to get a small drop on it: apply it to the edge and smear it, taking care you don't get any on the leather/flesh side (if you do, quickly rub it off with paper towel or shop towel). Repeat as needed. Wipe your finger on the shop towel. Burnish. No need to make a mess, really.

Sharpest than sharp?? Definitely. Point in fact, the side purchase should be a set of honing stones if you haven't them already. These are mine: https://www.danswhetstone.com/product/bench-stones/ Soft and Hard should be all you need. After the stones, don't forget the strop and the green honing compound.

Those Japanese skiving knives are just what the doctor ordered. Get them from goodsjapan.com. Don't bother with knock-offs, they're not that expensive. You can also use a round knife, which is just what the surgeon ordered.

And I'm guessing you made the card pockets out of the 0.9mm?

Not trying to hijack your thread, but this is the problem I'm facing now: the client wants this one replicated: You can see it has an ID compartment with plastic cover too: That ID window is a better model for you than my poor attempt I posted above: see how there's more leather towards the inside. That's made of two layers of leather only, so there's confirmation for you: use only two layers. The leather in that wallet is >1 mm thick, but they kinda "cheated" when making it too: all the liners and some dividers are thin fabric, not leather: Once folded and closed, it's a brick:

Going back to your (our) wallet(s): I use scrap (belly) veg tan to make a test run when tackling a project I haven't made before. Here I cut some panels for the wallet I'll eventually, God willing, make out of chevre (or maybe I'll make as @Danne and use different leather for the outer cover and the chevre for the inside panels—still thinking about it...): That's 3 oz, like yours: Once you put two layers together and a liner it goes over 8 oz (double that once you fold it): Once you add the inner panels, it goes to ~13 oz! Again, double that once folded... And that's with only one bill compartment and only one side of it lined. Add 1 mm (2.5 oz) if you want to line the inner panel too, and if you have two bill compartments... oh my.

Only two, unless you need it lined. Here's one I made some time ago out of some scrap Badalassi 2.5 oz (which is almost 3 oz as you can see): Two layers make it ~6 oz: Please, use that only as an example of basic construction, and don't use it as model/reference for the pattern, though, for it's wrong: you can see I cut the window too large and there's barely enough leather to hold onto the card once it's inserted. Of course, if you're stitching the plastic cover in place, you won't have the card popping out by itself, but I'd still leave at least 1/8" more leather inwards past the stitch line.

Top notch as always. What are the weights on the Sully?

I'd advise getting thinner leather. Rocky Mountain Leather Supply has free splitting to thinner weights. If you use 3 oz it's gonna be a hamburger when you're done, and once the end user starts putting cards in (and some want to slide 2-3 cards in each slot) it's gonna be a tower cake that just won't fit comfortably in a pocket. I'm having the same issue now (which is why I clicked on the link to this thread): I must make a bifold wallet with a centre flap, which in turn must have an ID window, and it must also have a coin pocket with a zipper on the outer side. I originally ordered Alran Sully chevre: two skins: one 2.5 oz and the other one 1 oz. Well, the one is too thick and the other is too thin. I'll have to order another skin with a weight of 2 oz. The wallet would be not only a nightmare to make (it's a difficult project already) but also impractical to use.

Pretty neat!

Neat!

KS Blade 3.38 is a good all-round chisel for all your intended purposes. They're very sharp and solid and will punch through thick leather or several layers. For wallets you'd want tighter spacing and thinner thread. I do the same as @chrisash.

Glue before punching holes. Excess glue can be removed with adhesive eraser right after pressing both pieces together, before the glue has time to harden. https://tandyleather.ca/collections/supplies/products/heavy-duty-adhesive-eraser That eraser can also be used to remove edge paint that lands on the leather.

https://www.talasonline.com/Scharf-Fix-Paring-Machine Easily one of the best investments I've ever made. If you buy one, or any other paring machine, take the skiving in stages. Don't try to split a 7 oz to 2 oz in one fell swoop: you're very likely to go through the leather and/or, God forbid, end up in the ER with a swooped felled thumb. Split in stages, from thick to thin, and always present the nail of your thumb to the blade side.

The first three listed here are ESSENTIAL: https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/toolset.htm

Sometimes folding the leather in two along the axis of the corner will expose enough of it to allow you to run the edger over it.

If you've never made anything out of leather, a bag is more of an advanced project. Typically, the first item an 'apprentice' gets to make is a belt. The belt is not only a simple project, but it provides the foundation for making straps; if you can make straps, you can make other 'strappy' things, such as bag/briefcase closures, more advanced belts, rifle slings, and, well, bag straps. Before you start experimenting with lambskin and other more expensive leathers, you to become familiar with weights (thickness) and temper. The latter will determine whether a given leather is suitable for an intended project. Say, the simple, humble belt: you need thicker leather (7 oz and above) and firm to very firm temper so that it doesn't stretch with pull or use. Consider intended use for such belt too: for a dress belt, 8 oz should be OK, but for a gun belt you're gonna need 12 oz or greater. I think you need to redefine your process to: Step 1: Decide what to make. Step 2: Make pattern. Step 3: Get leather. Step 4: Get to work.

That's a very neat piece. But I'd like to see the interior.

Yup. When I get a side, I always cut off the belly portion as scrap. Then I cut off the shoulders as soft, tender leather unsuitable for belts, but suitable for other purposes, like sheaths. For belts, I use only the butt/bend portion.

Rocky Mountain Leather Supply sells European- and Japanese-made buckles, if that's any help. That's where I get my buckles for my belts. They're reasonably priced. https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/buckles-hardware

Buckleguy's hardware is made in China.

Also note that Pro dye can't be shipped to some locations.