ASAuLTCases

Hi, I'm not sure how your machine pedal controls the motor, so I am going on the 2 modern style industrial tables with clutch motors that have basically the same set up, one I think original to the Singer 211G166 compound feed flat bed, the other a union special (flat bed) table that has got my old Singer 17-8 cylinder arm machine fitted on it, but I might swop that with my Adler Patcher I have on a Singer treadle base for the Patcher style machines,? But back to what I found years ago on how to slow down and get more control over the machine is quite simple but quite clever as well, The lever that is at the bottom of the motor, it pulls down and operates the motors clutch, at the end of the lever is a hole, the Rod links into, with a bolt in the end of it, the lower end of Rod fits on the pedal. That's what it does, What will give more control is making the distance between hinge of the lever and the Rod link at the other end, in the same way as it would give more force for less energy, it allows increased control because eg the pedal control movement of 1 inch changed the motor speed from 0 to maximum speed, when the distance between the hinge and Rod link are increased the control movement can be greatly improved doubled plus quite easily to do by bolting a length of bar, angle alli, I think it's uni strut with holes in it, Channel rail, the Singer table pedal was connected to the Rod on the motor side so I just moved the connection on the pedal to the other side and extended the lever with a bar, I've just noticed the other table pedal is in the middle for a normal flat bed machine and I will probably move it across to suit where the action is and more comfortable, I hope you understand what I mean? It does work and when you think about it is quite logical, I keep thinking about turning the cylinder arm machine around so the arm is clear over the end of the table, but I am not sure whether the motor will be OK wired the other way round so it runs opposite direction, DC AND 3PHASE motors do, not enough room to turn the motor round, Anyway hope this helps,

Hi again, sorry I missed your response, how are you getting on with your machine and needles? asaultleatherwork@gmail.com . Hopefully we will be out of lockdown at the weekend so if you want to try out my singer and needles so you can get a real look at the difference in them let me know. If you want to bring your machine so we can have a look at it and try out some needles in yours to make sure it hasn't been messed about with in any way? I didn't realise when I first replied that you was a lady "so arrangements can be done in the open on here for your piece of mind" cheers Anthony Salt ASAuLT Leatherwork.

if you rivet the tab on inthe place a snap would go, with a small spacer, then take it out and slide the tab over and off when you want to, if you get what i mean

Hello all, i am just putting together a small case that goes on a tank bib, so it can be taken off i was going to use a snap fastener but the rivet stems are to short for 1/4inch, 6mm thick piece, i don't want to skive it because it will not look right, but i am wondering if anyone has tried using the long-stemmed half of a double head rivet instead of the normal head? i hope this makes sense, thanks in advance,

i didn't say but on the singer that's compound feed,i can adjust the feed dogs so they don't come up high enough to damage the leather ( come to think about it take them off altogether), looking at the exit ring it is leaving makes me wonder how big the needle hole is in the footplate? it looks massive or you use very small needles? that looks suspect to me as an engineer, I don't have the experience as a machinist, but it would have to be a blunt needle pushing into a large hole and forcing through the leather? what needles are you using? another sewing machine dealer is AE sewing machines UK, ihave only brought one order from them of needles, small pulley, bobbins, seam cutters, needle threader, thread etc but they where great, big selection of needles, you can download your machine parts diagrams/list, they seem to have a huge spare parts department, you should be able to check if your needle hole in the footplate has been drilled out to hide damage from a stray needle, but a smaller hole and a sharp leather needle would help you a lot, a schmetz RTW leather needle give a lovely diamond shape hole and a lovely looking saddle stitch "Z" on my machine they do, the offers there if you want to try it,

JHBH2, hello mate, ive got a Singer 211g166 and one of those Chinese hand-crank machines, i live near the M1 motorway services, i see your only in Nottingham "i say only but it depends what side" but if its any help your welcome to come and have a go with them and see if they are (the singer) what you need?

i get what you mean fredk, common sense and logically, i seem to have a vision of car door hinges in leather now you mention the Austin 7 having leather straps? not that i was around, i did have a Morris Oxford estate that i was going to get back on the road when i was about 16 but the floor was rotten so i scrapped it, it was 1981 before i get hung lol. The old cars and bikes ive had, i would be minted if i had them still, mind you £25 last leg cars was all we used to have and drive for years, probably why insurance companies charge now to change the details,

great thanks fredk, that's good to no, i prefer going on gut feeling, but after reading the discussion started by Johane about fitting buckles and straps, it has some good points and debated counterpoints, i will have to keep in mind, more for shoulder and handle buckles and straps that hold the weight and take the friction from motion,so need to be extra strong, i don't think closing straps and buckles take so much abuse thou? cheers

Hello all, i have just got some buckles for my tool roll case and it occurs to me should i put the buckle on the bottom body with the tongue straps coming down from the flap/lid closer? or the other way round, then i wondered if there is a set rule to this? if so why? i did a google search that as usual, i end up directed back to Leatherworker and Johanas topic that is great but it is how best to fit them, maybe it doesn't help not using the correct terminology, so help with that would also be appreciated, Thanks in advance for any help.

it fits in a slot in the footplate and stops going round, unless the hook is to low or the plate is bent upwards, i have just got a 211g166 a few weeks ago and hade to set it up, download a few manuals because some explain bits better and even mention things others don't, i think the best was for the model you have, but make sure you read and understand what it says because it will save a lot of time and confusion especialy if bits are missing and set up wrong believe me,

Yes thats great thanks YinTx, ive just been studying Paul Burnetts lessons and came across the lifting type tool, it might have been more going under, but i get the idea, thanks i have lots of screw drivers so i will be re-designing some.

that is brilliant, how do you get it so deep? or is it partly 3D effect? i am new to the Art so please excuse me if my questions should be part of the learning curve and learn from experience in order to really grasp the technique? as i just mentioned order could you also give any advice on the best order to tool, wet-form mould, and colour etc the leather when you are making something that gives the opportunity to pick the order? thanks

im evo contact and just got a tool centre contact that is runny, i am not sure on that yet, but for watch straps Gorilla glue classic will beat all the others but it would cost more than the leather on bigger builds, but i would say its ideal for you, I've glued my souls on old boots and they are still stuck, after months, that is all the proof i need, i tried loads over the years and would not even bother trying the others, i have a Gorilla glue and tried it not expecting it to work, brilliant stuff and you damp one side and a bit goes a long way, we don't have better in the UK.

Hi all sorry if this is in the wrong place, i thought more users would see it here if they have a sewing machine head and a juki steel industrial stand with treadle would be of use? they are on sale at AESewing machines in the UK for £35 if it is a good price? anyway just thought i would tell you all in case it is of use to anyone

Cheers alysay, i made the base to fit and the tool roll for a bit of lumbar support, they are not designed as one set, i think it would be to much pattern if it was, but another thing for me to remember, "not to busy with mixing patterns", i think a plane tool roll using the buckles and hardware as detail would look best, i still haven't managed to get that real deep 3D effect like you all get, some are amazing how deep they look,