FrenchMich

Hermann OAk Leather, Sheridan Brown Fiebing's Antique and Neat Lac Finish

Thank you very much, but I'm not Sir, Only Mich' from a little beginner from France . I know several real artists and the gap theyr level end mine is ernormous... Long is the road, but I love this way.

Thank you very much, that's encouraging.

Leather is Hermann Oak for yokes, for legs is French calf Chrom taned. Coloring, Olive oil (a little bit) , two layers of Resolen, Fiebing's Medium brown antique Finish and a last layer of Resolene.

I think it's more a problem of humidification of your leather or even of the nature of your leather. It's possible to carve a design on leather without using swivel knife before and having a very good volume.therefore the quality of the blade or the sharpness cannot be the only factor. Personally, I don't like blade of swivel knife too much sharpened I want it's very polished like a mirror but no sharp (it's a long debate and everyone has their own technique). With that, I obtain a correct result with good contrasts. Like that It's Hermann Oak 7/8 Oz natural stra Other question, what you use as tools? bevelers? Do you have pictures of your job to help you more? Mich'

24 Oz, it's already heavy for floral carving. For me, 20 Oz it should be better. However, it's Ok for geometric stamp like medium Basket stamp.

I use several Mauls (I find easier than mallet, you don't need to direct the strike, it's always well oriented and the movement of the forearm is more ergonomic) I have one barry king lightweight, one from skindhuset (505 gr ; 1,11 lbs I like it, the typing is nice ), a big one (2 lbs) for big jobs and the king of mauls (for me) the Wayne Jueschke taper 1 lb. It's the ideal balance and ideal weight for froral carving. So, all that to say you, after more of twenty years of leather work my opinion is the good weight is around of 0.8 and 1 lbs. Mich'

Thank you TomE

Sorry for my late answer. I have several sets of Beveler straight for straight lines and convexe lines and round for concave lines. I have several size for each, but I use systematically the widest possible to limite tool marks. My preference is Horse shoe brand ''jeremiah watt product'', but I also have a range of tools from Barry King and it works well. For all, Thank you very much

Detail With Antique finish (When I come back the next day it works (for upload pictures...))

Today I was able to upload two pictures no more... I'll try tomorrow again

For previous picture the used tools are Veiner and shader... some finish with swivel knife And to finish, the lifter

Yes of course As soon I can I'll post the following. I you want know more about used tools or otherthing, don't hesitate Mich'

as you advised me, I resized all my pictures, but i am stuck again

Next convex bevelling Next background, with Barry King 0.45 Bargrounders Next some details with veiners

Sorry impossible to go on..I can't uplode other pictures.

The veiner in scrolls I began by the concave beveling Next

Hello, My work of this weekend. A pair of yokes for reining chaps After drawing, the swivel work External beveling with border

Sorry to be late It's the only one picture I have

Hello, Sorry I just seen your question... For yokes, it's Hermman Oak Strap 9/10 Oz. For legs, it's chrome-tanned calfskin.

Thank you very much to all

What kind of chaps want you make? Batwing? Shotgun (modern or old style)? If you want close it with a zip the assembly will rather the one of right. If you say me a little more, maybe I can help you to make the pattern.

My last job : A pair of yokes of chaps with Scrolling design full carved Hermann OAk Tooling molding strap Leather 7/8 oz, light braun fiebings antique finish and french finition product.

What are you left with? I live i French but I can have a friend address in USA and he will send to me it