HandyDave

Also when using a 2 piece style mold for molding leather you just got to make sure you have a big enough piece of leather to mold deeper pieces.

I like to leave a bit extra meat on my edges where it can be. Then after sewing I can trim edge down and run it across my sander then start edge finish work. Makes getting the edges nice and smooth so much easier which we know for a good finished edge it needs to be good and smooth.

About all I use is hand tools and everything I make is hand sewn. The one machine that I do really enjoy having is a bench sander. With belt and disc. And if I could only choose one machine to keep it would be the sander. Before I got it I would cut everything flush as I could with razor then hand sand which worked but boy is it nice to just run the edge of holster or belt or whatever over the bench sander then go back to hand finishing and slicking.

I use 50/50 resolene or leather sheen thinned down just slightly. Those are the main 2 top coats I use for everything. I've tryed a few other types and brands but those 2 are what I've found to work the best for me.

I do alot of painted details using acrylic paints I get at the hobby store. If you don't allow the paint to cure good it can streak or lift a bit when applying finish of choice. I usually let my painted pieces set for couple days before adding 50/50 resolene or other top coats. Black and white seem to be the most likely to have any issues in my experience. If black paint is used on a light or natural color leather and you don't let it cure good I've had it streak lightly as I've done top coat. If it I cured good then no problems. And I've had plain white kinda yellow after adding topcoat. My fix I've found for this yellowing is I add just a drop or 2 of a super light beige/tan paint to my palette and mix it into the white. It doesn't change the color enough so it's not white anymore but something about adding that slight bit of different pigment and I don't get no yellowing after doing top coat.

I'm sure you know but there is also grades of leather at most suppliers. So for something that doesn't need to be show ready but still plenty tough and durable go with a lesser grade of leather which usually will save you substantially. Sometimes a grade C can be half the cost of grade A. Nice piece of more rustic looking hide with some branding marks and bug bites and such imo looks better on a real working tool then a shiney spotless hide anyway.

I've done several animals including birds and reptiles and fish. But haven't done a dog until now. I was asked if I could do a memorial piece for a guys Russian wolfhound. He sent me a few pics and I chose one I thought would translate good on leather. I told the guy I hadn't done a dog yet but was up for the challenge. I would also like some feedback from this group on your thoughts.

Pieces look pretty good specially for just starting. If your planning on doing alot of key fobs and such smaller items I would suggest looking into some cutting dies. Key fob dies and similar small item dies aren't alot of money and will guarantee you a pile of pieces that are all cut perfectly the same. It is hard to get consistent shapes when cutting stuff like this by hand.

A place I have used many times online that doesn't get brought up very often is Frogjelly Leather. They are near fort worth and I think they have a store front. Might be worth checking out

Another vote for leatherstampmaker.com I've had several custom stamps for a few different companies I do regular work for made by them. I've been very happy with there stamps and my customers was over the top happy. And like said above you can get there heating iron for using stamps for branding purposes.

I most times carve my letters now days atleast 3/4 inch and up I do. I still use my smaller letter stamps. What I did to fix getting that straight edge around letters from the stamp edge was very slightly rounded the edges over with a fine grit metal file. Just enough to get rid of that hard edge. Hope this helps. As for the op question about names on the dog lead he posted I would try like Chuck said and make the handle have a flatter face for putting names on. Without burning or lasering I doubt you'll ever tool in letters and get them to stay or look nice on such a small rounded surface.

These are some super great tips here. Specially the lighting. I went with the 4 foot 2 bulb shop lights in led with the pull cords. I bought a 12 pack of the 15 year led fixtures cheap on the Amazon. I wanted to have zones of light where I'm workin at each moment instead of having every light on all the time. I also have a few desk lamps I can move around and headlamps hanging next to carving/tooling bench. Plenty of light. I started to build my shop at 12x12 and ended up with 20x24 and still feel like I need more space at times. I've got a 4x8 main work table on heavy locking casters in center of one side that can move around if need be. And stationary built in benches down 2 walls where my sanders and other bench top stuff sets. The other side of shop is racks and shelves and hooks for storing everything used in leatherwork.

Beautiful work on the scabbards. Suede can hold moisture it also is terrible to collect dust and grit from everything turning it into sandpaper with time. Same with sherling and anything fibery. It looks good but something smooth like a thinner vegtan is best option. The smooth is also alot easier to wipe out to keep the dust and grit from collecting.

Call it abstract and live with it. If you don't have a dye accident from time to time your not leatherworking. its like holes and cuts on the digits its just gonna happen

I allways enjoy seeing your builds. It's never boring that's for sure. I've said it before on here that you sir don't think just outside the box you smash the damn box toss the instructions and blaze your own trail. Keep it up.