deloid

Sounds like a solution. Thank you!

I remember being told that the Cobra 4 was capable of sewing the edge of a molded pouch similar to the one's pictured. I need to sew quite a few...any guidance would be appreciated. I have the Cobra 4. Thanks, Dean

Just an update. I decided to glue with a curved shape after a smaller trial (minibelt) glued flat had some buckling on the inner leather. It's tooled and stained and ready for sewing now. The only problem is that the slightly thinner liner stains erratically where there was a higher concentration of contact cement. I think I need to thin the cement out more but other ideas are welcome. I'll post a pic after sewing-Dean

I have a Landis 30 and I thought I brought it back to life by following the instruction PDF available on the Internet. It cuts well but I need a certain thickness that is actually between the plunger index settings. Is there a way to temporarily change the blade height independently of the index by a bit ( 1.5mm)? Thanks

Beautiful! I'm making some right now. What was the upper diameter and the average lower (wrist end) diameter? I have a template I bought but the cuffs are huge. I suspect this template size was meant to be worn over a jacket or heavy shirt.

You folks are awesome. This is more information than I hoped for. Since we are going into higher production my wife and I are trying to get to know our Cobra 4 better. There was a question above about sewing the ends- On our cuffs and bracelets we are slowly learning that you can space the stitch really well if you learn not to push the needle while pivoting the leather. We still get skipped stitches. I think it's part technique and part machine timing. Steve is helping us with the timing, we are practicing how to take the turn well.

Now that we got our Cobra 4 from Steve (works great!), I would like to start adding a sales option of lined belts. We do hand sew but belts would have been too time consuming for the price we can charge in our market. Is the lining usually the same thickness as the tooled front? Is the lining glued then sewn and if so is it glued with a slight curvature? If no glue is it sewn with a slight curve so the stitches aren't stressed when placed around the waist? Is the lining cut to width after sewing? Any links to references such as tutorials or videos (free or not) would be appreciated.

This machine has it's speed control via a foot pedal. Is this the same as a servo motor or is this simply a variable rheostat with decreased power with decreased speed? Clearly I don't know much at all about sewing machines- any help would be appreciated. Thanks dean

I am still looking for a machine (or two) for a wide range of sewing. Most will be the equivalent of sewing belts, pouches etc... I still have the advice that was given to me (thanks Wiz) but haven't gotten a machine yet- still sew by hand. Someone locally is wanting to sell their Econosew/Juki 360 JC. It has the motor and table and says Econosew on a larger plate then Juki 360 JC on a smaller plate. As I understand it, this is a lower level factory type machine made by juki. The machine works well and the price is about 1/2 off ($700). It is tempting to get but I cannot find any comments on this particular model. A little help would be appreciated.

Thank you! Do you happen to know the ratio of cord length to finished product? I'm trying to go 14 1/2 inches without the end clasps (double wrap around wrist).

Reference or link would be appreciated for this style of braiding. Looks like a herringbone pattern but I can't figure it out. thanks for any leads- Dean

This looks nice but many people in Idaho know what a bear track looks like and this is too far from reality.

I just repeated the search now- There is the badly proportioned Grizzly track I mentioned previously and a "Teddy bear" track. Nothing close to realistic.

I thought so but I do appreciate your verifying that! Dean

This may have been rolled on and I think it could be done with bevel stamping but how would you guess this oldy was done (link design)

That's his work on e-bay. He does a good job with his process but this particular bear print is all out of proportion. I'd like to make or buy one that is more realistic in appearance.

Old thread but I am also interested in a good bear paw print. I don't think I will be able to find one but this feller in Prague seems to have a cast and solder technique down. i don't like the proportion of his bear stamp so I want to try and make a (fore and back foot) track Blackbear stamp. His latest sold item is here: Ended ebay auction Any tips on how to make my own? thanks- Dean

I read this thread through once again and i do believe there is an understanding (correct) that most of the older head knives are better than most anything you can buy new...especially that Tandy "damascus". nothing I know of though will beat out this Bill burke 52100 knife. This is made by a pretty special maker and with exceptional steel. Nice!!!

I I like my ancient 'rose' my old osbornes but they don't hold an edge long enough. I am pretty certain they were fine to start with but were abused at some point in their life. I'm going to make a version out of 1095, properly forged and heat treated. I prefer a slight convex geometry and I know this combo will make the edge remain sharp for very long periods of use. I'll put up som photos when I'm done. Damascus is fine for admiring and does have some wear patterns as mentioned above that will help cut a tomato but for leather just stick to a high carbon steel.

I am a big fan of convex blades and though I have a fancy 2X72 grinder, Tormek, Diamond, wet stones and all forms of vintage stones I use an alternate method for keeping the convex geometry sharp on my knives (including my head knife). I just noticed the my older Osborne splitter has a bevel but my chase has a convex blade. I'll use the chase for "push/pull" splitting (not skyving) because of the blade geometry. Does anyone know if the Old twist handle Osborne originally came with a convex grind? I'm going to make a new blade out of 1095 and will make it convex (on one side) but I was wondering if this was historically correct. Thanks, Dean

Sylvia, I just found out that the person that made that piece calls it a modified Spanish braid lace. I can't find anything on this. Dean

You must be right Sylvia. I was confused by the edge line as it looks like a twist but it must be the double stitch. Thanks you very much! Dean

I'd like to learn this pattern. does anyone know what it is called and where i might find a tutorial? Thanks!

Bruce, I have over 70 hackbarths and hundreds of the better quality craftool and others and these are better tooled (in my opinion) when viewed with a loupe but the handles are crude. A few Hackbarths to the left of the others in one photo for comparison of size and uniformity of handle. Dean