deloid

Their search comes up empty but it is an interesting store. Do you know or can you find out who the seller was?

This is exactly why I was hoping there might be a quality clip better than what Tandy sells. I might have to make my own.

Where can one buy quality money clips (for wallets)?

Hand sewing is relaxing and fun and that would be my approach if I were making a strap for myself. When you have a lot of hand made leather goods and hundreds of straps to sell hand sewing is no longer a possibility.

I'll certainly let you know on this forum. I too started with forging then stock removal. I am still a member of the ABS our local Idaho Knife Association and the CKCA. My wife has taken the leather business to new wonderful heights and while I love helping as I can I have been pulled from my primary interests. This is at least one way that I can get back to working metal. perhaps I might sneak in a couple of hunters and the 9 1/4 inch flat grind Gents bowie that used to drive me nuts (getting the grind right). It's funny, I first started making knife sheaths because I made knives and more importantly, Paul Long gave me his time and attention to get me started correctly. From there I made a belt for my wife. This inspired her and she took on the work herself with drive, passion and creativity. Now I assist and troubleshoot. Thanks for your expressed interest! Dean

I have been reflecting on the blade design and now I think I see a purpose to the lower carbon steel weld. I suspect that the vibrations from pulling on certain tough leather may transmit too harshly to the cast frame. Mild steel would soften these vibrations and also render the attachment (nut to frame)less prone to damage. Theoretically at least. If so, I can forge weld wrought to the tool steel. Unfortunately I have a limited supply of wrought iron.

Thank you so very much! I was guessing that adding the original lines and width would come to around 1.75" but it's nice to read this from you. Yes, Bruce will undoubtedly know.

I will make a few blades out of my O1 stock. I have the length and slot from my present 84. I measure 3/8th inch thickness and perhaps I should keep it there if that is what the Osborne 84s were supposed to have. I don't know what the original width was due to wear on my now pretty much exhausted blade. Any help with this?

I'm glad this came up Jeremy. It's nice to hear from someone who has handled the Osborne and Weaver. Since I will be grinding a new profile from O1 steel I might as well use a thicker piece and try the Weaver grind on my Osborne frame. Dean

Hi Jeremy, I agree that 15 degrees would be a pleasure to cut with but theoretically it shouldn't stay sharp as long as a 22 degree edge or a grind with a secondary bevel. It seems like you are pleased with the Weaver blade. It must be a durable steel. Is it harder to resharpen like most long wearing steels? You wrote "bimetal splitter blade other than sharpening might be a touch easier". I would have to argue with this point. The purpose of having mild steel such as wrought as a core was twofold. One was cost savings, the other was resilience. With differential heat treating or purposeful quenching this isn't really necessary anymore (arguable). The edge though is only supposed to be carbon steel (hard steel)so sharpening shouldn't be any easier. Incidentally, though I'm sure you already know this, the Weaver at 1/2 inch is thicker than the Osborne at 3/8 inch at the spine. This is also helpful to consider (in favor of a Weaver blade). Dean

As I was searching for comments on replacement steel for an Osborne 84 I ran into this thread. I figured I would add a couple of comments for the sake of education (or argument) . #1 There is little to no value in having the blade grind go all the way up as with the Weaver (in my opinion). The stiffness of the 3/8" thick spine of the old Osborne blade is important and this is diminished with the greater grind. Additionally, the cutting action takes place in a very small part of the blade though it is wise to keep the entire beveled section polished. This blades action is not like that of a Chefs knife. No offense meant with a direct contradiction. #2 While I cannot dispute the possibility that there is a softer steel welded within the carbon steel I see no reason for this on this kind of blade. I'm probably going to use O1 tool steel to replace my blade. Almost considered regular old 1084 or 1095 but the O1 will wear better. Dean

I know what you mean by that horizontal stitch and that stitch might be hand started/finished but I do know that these were machine sewn. Most, if not all of the Chinese inexpensive straps are machine sewn. I can leave the bottom of the strap wide so that the pressor foot rides on that but the needle's walking foot is too wide.

I'd like to add watch straps to our inventory, especially since I also do watch repair. Despite all the sewing I've been doing I can't figure out how to use a sewing machine to sew sports type straps...especially with a central filler. I can't find any youtube videos, books or tutorials. Help with this (visually especially) would be much appreciated. Sample of type I would like to sew below:

Thank you! I would love to find out if there is a less expensive subscription based fee for these books as they come out. Anyone know of a contact in Japan that can find out?

I see there are two books in Japanese (Tankkobon Hardcover) about wallet designs and making. They are quite pricey. Anyone own any of these? Are they useful for design ideas or as a making guide? Thanks Dean

I need to reset my Landis 30. I would like to reset the lower spring tension, Adjust the newly sharpened blade to the lower roller then get the upper roller properly positioned. The instructions don't help me. Thanks for any help.

Thanks! Weaver and M.J. Foley have difficult navigation issues on their webpages. I left messages with them. I contacted Bobby at Toledo and they don't have SD's is sizes less than 23 (same thing with Leather machine co). But bobby is such a nice guy I bought some smaller rounds for the thin credit card holders my wife is making. I would still love SDs though.

Hi Whiz, I was reluctantly prepared to dive in and follow your directions but Dave spent time with me and I had two issues #1 Improper threading route. I can't believe I missed that but it was off. #2 The bobbin required more tension. The problem is fixed.

I have been using the 794 LR needles...usually in size 23-25 in my Cobra 4. I would like to test the SD style points for a straight line run in work that doesn't require as much strength ( 19, 21 and 23 size). I can't find any sellers in the US that carry these. Any help?

I have been using the 794 LR needles...usually in size 23-25 in my Cobra 4. I would like to test the SD style points for a straight line run in work that doesn't require as much strength ( 19, 21 and 23 size). I can't find any sellers in the US that carry these. Any help?

Whiz, I changed the thread color but I used the same thread (138) that has always worked well for me. I have always used Steve's (Cobra) recommended leather cutting needles and at his recommended size of 23. There was a difference though. Even though I am meticulous about the threading route, as I was sewing at the highest speed there is some slack at the disc below the pretension disc (top), and the thread was looped and fraying on the spring/screw for this second disc with the felt pads. I corrected that but now I have messed with the pressor foot tension, the top disc tension and I can't get it to drop the knot even with the top tension almost unscrewed. Problem #1 Don't know why all was thrown out of whack after the frayed string. There is no debris in the bobbin area. Problem #2 I have lost my baseline for the different tensions. I didn't mess with the bobbin tension though. Problem #4 When I was adjusting the top pre tension disc I didn't realize I was supposed to move the tension on the second felted roller disc. This one doesn't do anything I can see to the thread and other than functioning as a wrap around I don't understand the purpose of the felt and the tension spring. Help would be greatly appreciated. My wife runs a leather business and I (and a friend) need to sew for her. The work orders are getting backed up. Dean

Hi Tom, I'm glad it can be done. I was starting to think that the knot needed material to be able to go halfway. My problem now is that in trying to correct it I have my pressor tension and upper thread tension all out of whack. When you have done this in the past was it with the Cobra or similar? If so, do you recall how many turns you had to back off to get it right? Thanks, Dean

Large belt with double run of stitching. !/4 came out with knot on top...don't know why yet. I removed this and tried various top tension settings to resew but the knot is always on top, I suspect due to the hole size/lack of leather resistance. Cobra 4, using 138 thread and a23 leather cutting needle. Any help with this? I don't want to saddle stitch this. regards, Dean

Back of Brown: U.S. Milwaukee Saddlery Co 1946 Stamped on the inside: L-7521 Black one has a brown back: U.S. J.Q.M.D. 1947 E.N.S

Have one in black and one brown. I collect these and other similar military leatherwork such as ammo pouches.