PeterinID

If you still have it come November and are going to Pendleton I'd be intested

It kind of depends on what you make and how much you make. I make purse straps usually 1" or 3/4" and I got tired of tracing templates and hand cutting. I now use good quality half round and English points (mine are Horse Shoe Brand) for all 1" & 3/4" straps. I have a clicker press and use dies to cut belt ends but I occasionally use hand punches for that. The more things that you create the more you will want ways to save time performing simple repetitive tasks.

When the machine pushes the needle through the leather the leather must move to make room for the needle and the leather gets displaced downward along the needle path, this creates the bottom side bulging you see. This phenomenon exists with all machine stitching to some degree and thread size, needle size, needle tip leather thickness and tannage are all factors that can increase or decrease the phenomenon.

You can order piping feet directly from Leather machine company. The Facebook groups Tips and Tricks for Cobra Class machines is a great source of information and troubleshooting help. Leather Machine company has good videos available at their website. Search youtube for Al Bane's videos, they are the best I've found.

I have recently seen a 29k60 listed but when I asked the seller for details they sent me a picture of what I believe is a broken take up arm. I am not familiar with this machine or where to locate parts. I am hoping someone here can provide helpful information

I sent an email with a question about the thread lot listed at the website last week and no reply yet.

I buy my thread and bobbins from Leather Machine Company or businesses that distribute LMC machines. For sheaths I would say any thread size 138 and larger is good. You should join the Facebook group "Tips and and Tricks with Cobra Class Leatherworking Machines" it is an excellent group for technical support issues and is endorsed by Leather Machine Company.

Join the Cobra equipment tips and tricks Facebook group, great network for troubleshooting help. Buy an angled tip oil bottle like this https://allstitch.com/products/deluxe-plastic-oiler-1711 Review The videos Leather Machine Company has as well as Al Banes YouTube videos. Especially learn all lubricating points, there are more than what has red paint markings - like the linkage inside the head. Enjoy your machine

In addition to the transfer of energy while tooling a big reason that stone is preferred is due to the fact that iron staining can occur if you use a ferrous surface (it can also occur if you have iron dust on your hands frome sharpening knives). A stone surface eliminates this - unless it is iron containing stone. Granite is most common

Try squirting some thinner or acetone on the stuck threads then channel locks or toothed pipe wrench even. I keep a little container of vaseline on my gluing bench and use a qtip to apply it to the container and lid threads.

I don't think it will sew through either, not uniformly or reliably. I think you would snap needles and crack plastic. If you drilled holes that matched stitch length you might possibly get ok results.

I use 69 for interiors and 138 for sewing back to interior

After taking a course on skivers at the Pendelton Leather show. I switched from a stone wheel to a rubber one, I set the clearances pretty close and am able to skive many different tempers of light leather very thin.

You need to learn how to adjust the machine yourself. These machines are identical from manufacturer to manufacturer, the settings requires adjustments depending on thickness and type of leather and that is why you need to teach yourself how to do it. You also need to learn the sharpening procedure. There are several good videos on machine adjustment, here are a few. I took a class on the skiver at the Pendelton Leather show last year that was very useful.