PeterinID

I buy my thread and bobbins from Leather Machine Company or businesses that distribute LMC machines. For sheaths I would say any thread size 138 and larger is good. You should join the Facebook group "Tips and and Tricks with Cobra Class Leatherworking Machines" it is an excellent group for technical support issues and is endorsed by Leather Machine Company.

Join the Cobra equipment tips and tricks Facebook group, great network for troubleshooting help. Buy an angled tip oil bottle like this https://allstitch.com/products/deluxe-plastic-oiler-1711 Review The videos Leather Machine Company has as well as Al Banes YouTube videos. Especially learn all lubricating points, there are more than what has red paint markings - like the linkage inside the head. Enjoy your machine

In addition to the transfer of energy while tooling a big reason that stone is preferred is due to the fact that iron staining can occur if you use a ferrous surface (it can also occur if you have iron dust on your hands frome sharpening knives). A stone surface eliminates this - unless it is iron containing stone. Granite is most common

Try squirting some thinner or acetone on the stuck threads then channel locks or toothed pipe wrench even. I keep a little container of vaseline on my gluing bench and use a qtip to apply it to the container and lid threads.

I don't think it will sew through either, not uniformly or reliably. I think you would snap needles and crack plastic. If you drilled holes that matched stitch length you might possibly get ok results.

I use 69 for interiors and 138 for sewing back to interior

After taking a course on skivers at the Pendelton Leather show. I switched from a stone wheel to a rubber one, I set the clearances pretty close and am able to skive many different tempers of light leather very thin.

You need to learn how to adjust the machine yourself. These machines are identical from manufacturer to manufacturer, the settings requires adjustments depending on thickness and type of leather and that is why you need to teach yourself how to do it. You also need to learn the sharpening procedure. There are several good videos on machine adjustment, here are a few. I took a class on the skiver at the Pendelton Leather show last year that was very useful.

I have this item and really like it. I was just using it to stitch belts with a 1/4" border and it tracked perfectly within the border.

I am certainly no expert but I know there have been advances in tanning techniques since 1886 that could easily alter the possible damaging results of splitting, present day leather cases differently that leather did 50 years ago (or so Jim Linnell told me in a class last year). When we buy hides of any particular weight they have been passed through splitters too.

I saw this on Esty the other day, similar to what luckystudio13 posted. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1165256487/aluminum-cylinder-arm-extension-table the guide attachments look nice https://www.etsy.com/listing/1222743460/mini-topstitching-table only $55

PM sent

Vaughn's made me a great jacket from and elk hide I sent them. I salted the hide per their specifications, sent it to them, waited a while and they sent me the jacket.

PM sent

Message sent