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Everything posted by Ben00

  1. Yes good question, the ideal outcome was to have embossed leather sewn on top of the sleeves of the sweater cuffs. Since leather seems to be the only material with good weight to it, that can hold a good quality shine to the outside surface. as I have painted the outside with acrylic paint. So I’m hoping to be able to wash the sweater and maintain the shine after a few washes. Did you treat your leather with anything?
  2. Thank you garyak I have purchased the pro resist. good to know I will not use beaver skin. This is a good point klara do you have any alternative suggestions before I start buying more leather materials. It honestly Would save me a pile of time and money.
  3. Thank you rocky, I was hoping to be able to detach the cuffs but every thing I have tried isn’t very stable, like buttons, fasteners, they all don’t hold the leather firmly in place. But thank you i will definetly try doing that, have you done it before? Or with another material? How did it go? bn
  4. You also said you hand skive the outside edges of the norbuck and croc skin specifically to avoid valleys between the leather. As i would like to keep my leather an even thickness on both sides, what would be the minimum amount of thickness you would ever go to, to insure there is no dip between the strips. apologies for all the questions, you just appear to be one of the few guys doing similar work that I want to learn. Thanks again really appreciate it. best BN
  5. Thank you for the feedback, I bought a weller wood burning kit which is 30w and it comes with a few straight tips nothing curved like you have, but I’m wondering if I can get some scrapes I’ve had off of my epi embossed leather, otherwise can I cover over the marks with edge paint? What do you normally do in this situation? Thanks. BN
  6. Hello Rockyaussie, I’ve been using the technique you showed me and just wanted to clarify that you don’t use any wax other than the HooCo stuff and even that is applied after you have painted with edge paint I presume, then sanded and ironed the edges. As you said above do not burnish at all during any stage. i assume you mean I should replace the burnishing with soldering the edge then. BN
  7. Thank you garyak, I don’t have an airbrush to apply the resist, is it it possible to apply any resist to leather without an airbrush or will it just end up looking messy? Thanks bn
  8. Thank you all, I will try the shoe goo, as well as the beaver leather. Garyak are you referring to pro resist sold by Fiebings?? I haven’t heard much about it. I will try thank you.
  9. Hi Bruce, you say there is a difference between slicking an edge and burnishing I’m a bit new to this, but anywhere online it says slicking and burnishing are the same. Is slicking more the process of compressing the fibers manually and burnishing is doing it by machine I ask as I’m considering buying a Dremel tool, or possibly a soldering iron. I’ve been told since I’m looking to edge very thin leather like exotic reptile skin, and i will be colouring my edges then I should use the soldering iron. But if burnishing is the best way to go possibly that sounds tempting lmk thanks. ben N
  10. Hey David, can u drop the name of the polyethurane that you use as a reist? Also just confirming that your saying that this shoe finishing product is durable through essentially any environment? (Water, extreme heat, extreme cold, frequent bending, no cracking of paint?) do you know if it is more durable than a product such as neat-lac? thanks Ben N
  11. Thank you Leatherlegion, but no, Tandy leathers newest version of neat unfortunately does not provide the same results as it’s predecessor. thank you though regards BN
  12. Update: I just found this online, which is available, however, I don’t know if it is as good as near lac, I only just found it now. It also can’t be shipped internationally. lmk if anyone has tried it. Regards BN
  13. Thanks, I’m thinking of going with wyosheen, was just curious if it differs from the original nest-lac in anyway, does anyone know what the difference is? lmk ben N
  14. Hello, for anyone with knowledge on finishes and where to find them, I’m looking for neat lac or clear lac. I have called Tandy and they do not supply, neither does spring field leather. I’m woundering if I have to order wyosheen but apparently some people don’t recommend using it. There must be a neat lac supplier still selling if anyone has any updates thank you much appreciated. ben N
  15. regarding the chemical you use to finish your edges just a bit more if needed, what did you say it was called? and it makes your edges an extra bit smoother after applying edge coat and soldering with your iron correct? - Ben
  16. RockyAussie you have far exceeded any expectations I had for any reply’s I was expecting to get. So bare with me I have a few questions. 1. Maybe I missed the detail about the type of brown leather you used for the backing of the watch strap. I was wondering if you could point me to where to buy that. 2.Also the reinforcing fabric you used, it appeared to be some sort of nylon mesh. Is it special order or does it matter what I use? 3. I also don’t have access to a leather thinning machine if i skive the whole strip of leather will it look uneven when glued down to the brown leather backing? 4. i have been using Latigo leather in the past, for its claim to fame on durability, I assume you don’t do a project like this with Latigo, and thin the leather out as much as you need right? 5. I don’t seem to have HooCo wax on hand, is HooCo a specialized kind that works best on smaller edges? Or will any old wax do for the edges? Like paraffin? Or beeswax perhaps? 6. Last question I promise, which is the horse hair buffering wheel, I don’t seem to have access to a wheel of that sort, is there a substitute I can use? Like a cordless drill? i know some people burnish with wooden wheels and such, but I don’t imagine you can find a polishing wheel, with horse hair, on it for polishing the face of the leather. thank so much, this was really helpful. if you have a YouTube channel or anything like that I’d love to follow you, cheers BN
  17. So any suggestions on making a clean edge?
  18. Hello all, I am currently working on making a nice clean edge with two strips of leather about 5-6 ounces at the max, one is epi, and the other is Latigo for a nice leather bracelet to wear on my wrist. The issue is I would like to make the bracelet durable, so I’m straddling both pieces of leather glued back to back, when I butt the ends together, the outside has a French seam and the inside piece has either a French seam as well or a 1/2” skived end piece on each end that over lap for me to hole punch and sew tightly together. But this means I need to straddle these strips together and stitch them right before I edge the bracelet. After the bracelet is made I have been applying all processes for a clean edge thoroughly from this site. However I am having a large issue with my leather not being even. Largely due to my leather which comes pre coated with some sort of waxed film is also very thin. This makes it basically impossible to edge nicely. I’ve tried sanding the edge with a belt sander, it didn’t seem to help much. it’s like the rough part of the leather falls after I glue both pieces together. So I have been looking at edge wax online. But people also use paraffin wax on edges as well as saddle soap. I have heard of using weld wood cement, and rolling the leather pieces together. I really wish someone could just lay out what is the best possible option to give a vey clean glass like edge that I can also paint with acrylics. But most Importantly that will not crack in the bent circular shape. thank you for all the help it is very much appreciated. i will attach the leather below. regards BN
  19. Ben00

    Hidepounder Tools

    Thank you Tom I noticed in that video the edge is quite wide obviously since your burnishing a saddle I looks like. But my leather is only a few ounces do you know if the burnishing iron does all edge thicknesses even if the leather is a bit flimsy or will it end up looking kind of messy? Thanks
  20. Ben00

    Hidepounder Tools

    Hi, Tom t thank you for the tip, when u say burnishing Orin I assume you mean the electric ones online? As they don’t seem to look like the one in the video. Although this looks like exactly what I need, please elaborate thank you. BN
  21. LAPat, those photos look great, I’m currently attempting a similar project, with lots of acrylic paint, I would love to get any info you have on how you made sure the leather didn’t crack underneath your paints, as it appears you use quite a bit. Thanks again lmk. regards BN
  22. Ben00

    Hidepounder Tools

    Yes exactly! I’ve heard about this so I’m wondering where I can buy the stuff he sells it doesn’t appear he has a website to buy from.
  23. Ben00

    Hidepounder Tools

    Bruce, do you happen to sell the felt marker that I hear he uses for dyeing burnished edges?
  24. Hello, I’m looking to get better at leather edging. But I want to learn from the absolute best, as my intention is to eventually sell my work. I heard Bobby Park (Hidepounder) is the standard for clean professional looking edge work. And he appears to use very specific tools for his work. But I have noticed he is not active on this website for a few years now. Does anyone know where to buy his specialty tools. That he says help him make such great results. I will attach his edge breakdown below. thanks again for any help.
  25. Matt this really helped I just skived both ends really long then hole punched through both layers and stitched the whole thing together worked like a charm appreciate the help. Yes fredk I did just that burnished the ends like you said, thank you for the idea of putting it around a glass jar to stabilize as well that helped a ton appreciate the assistance.
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